Multiple mounting points with electrical/power connections

[jpolacchi]

I was wondering if anyone has designed into their build(be it a commercial kit,larger garage/fan kit or a S.S build) multiple mounting points with power/electrical connections?Meaning two or more mounting points on the model with the ability to power it/light it from either point/My electrical understanding is well..."very basic",possibly LESS than basic, but I have been wanting to install more than one mounting point on my projects and I'm trying to get into installing lights/LEDS,fiber optics ect.I don't know how you go about doing that?

[Ant]

Yup, absolutely no reason why you can't do that. Assuiming your lighting circuit currently has a single connector with your + and - contacts, then you can just connect more in parallel, linking each + and each - together. Plugging the power into any connector will then work.

[jpolacchi]

Well,when I get to that point I really want to give it a go.Especially to some of these larger projects,like the 1/350 Blockade Runner or the Anigrand Star Destroyer.I think I could have at least 2 if not 3 mounting points?I thought I could get at least the same number of points to hook into on my FM 1/72 Falcon as well. One on either side,one in front.I think there should be enough room inside(it may be a little cramped).I just have a lack of understanding circuits/LEDS and things.Building/putting a kit together for me is one thing,but this is a whole new level of understanding (for me).But I thank you for your input and most likely I'll be seeking advice in the near future when it comes to planning this out.I don't want to make it complicated if it doesn't need to be,it just seems complicated to me.

[EVApodman]

Almost all the large sci-fi models had multiple mounting point where an outer portion could be removed for access to the tubular frame work that supported the model so it could be photographed from different angles.

Is this what you are planning, if so I wish you luck since most commercial models aren't set up for this kind of multiple mounting points. I have seen people who have done this with scratch built ships where they designed the armature first and then built the model around it with the mounting points designed into the structure.

[jpolacchi]

Well,I'm looking at "the model" be it commercial or other and where I can possibly install such mounting points.The 1/72 Falcon be it from Fine Molds or Bandai has at least (potentially) two-three mounting points and with the parts and assembly I think that is obtainable with minor modifications.The 1/350 Blockade Runner I think (again potentially) based on its parts and assembly have three mounting points.Of course it has some challenges.A little reverse engineering mainly being designing and installation of the inner support structure to fit inside the assembled kit.I'm fairly confident that can be accomplished,but I am NOT confident in my "electrical capabilities".Its something I have little knowledge on.Maybe it isn't as difficult as it appears Concerning LEDS,fiber optics and simple circuit boards,it just seems really difficult from my perspective.

[EVApodman]

The Millennium Falcon has two mounting point that I would use, the two side docking ports. You can make these removable relatively easy. A resin model like the Blockade runner is much more difficult because kits like that are typically solid inside and would require removing much of the resin to make room for support rods.

Remember, the most important fact of making an interior support is that all the weight of the model is supported by the structure and none is placed on the model.

As for lighting, for most models you will have to use a mixture of fiber optics and LEDS. For instrument panel buttons, etc., you will have use fiber optics. If you want multiple then each fiber for a particular color will have to be bundled together so that color LED will shine into it. If you want red, green blue or yellow then you will need an LED for each one. This is fairly easy to do.

If you want flashing, sequential lighting then you are talking about electronic circuits and this is more complicated.

Powering all this is another problem. It's possible to have power feeds at the mounting points to avoid external wiring. For a system like this you will only need two contacts, one for the positive voltage and one for the return.

[jpolacchi]

I think I understand.I don';y have a Blue Moon Blockade Runner in front of me to know how it was constructed.If it is was cast "completely solid" it will require a great deal of extra work to make room for "everything".Yes,I do know the S.S Falcon had a number of mounting points for filming.Specifically the ones you mentioned. I'd be happy to mount my FM kit from either end and maybe from the bottom or a mounting point from the front?I'm aiming for "simple" lighting,no flashing.I'll save that for the Enterprise.

[EVApodman]

Also remember in creating an internal framework you are going to come up against two brick walls.

One is the space available inside the model. This is fixed.

The second is the load bearing capacity of the frame work. Larger members have more capacity than smaller but then you butt up against the first limit. A solid metal framework may work but have you considered the cost of welding this type of frame?

The industry standard for mounting large models for filming has been 3" steel pipe, which is not an option here. I don't think they make 1' dia brass tubing which I consider the minimum acceptable size. PVC piping may work for the Falcon. Right now I'm picturing a main support pipe about 1'in dia. with the ends of it at the docking hatches and cross members drilled thru it to support the model.

Also with a model like this the only interior detail you will be able to see will be in the cockpit. The laser turret windows will have to be painted since the interior will be taken up by the armature.

[jpolacchi]

I can turn some of the parts on a lathe.I was a machinist once upon a time,but it has been years since I have machined anything of any significance.I have access to an engine lathe and a mill.I could also have someone assist in some simple welding.Another idea would be using copper pipe and/or K&S brass and soldering parts to construct a simple,internal structure.Copper is a pain to machine,at least conventionally.It heats up fast,gets real gummy and often will stick to the cutting edge of the tool loading it up and then you have finish issues because you are almost "rubbing" the material off to remove it rather than cutting it.

[Darth Humorous]

Actually, they do make 1" brass tubing. it isn’t cheap, tho. there are various internet metal merchants now. Speedy Metals comes to mind at the moment. But you can also get 1" weldable steel tubing at a decent hardware store in 3' lengths, and at some places, 6' lengths. For the same wall thickness, steel will actually be lighter and stronger than brass.

Mark

[jpolacchi]

I'd like to use aluminum,but I'd have to find someone else to weld that,and that would be a bit pricey unless I just want to epoxy,thread and screw components together.I suppose that could be an option?I'd rather turn the blanks myself.I have more of a "flange idea for the opposing sides of the falcon where plus for power will fit and a similar idea for the 1/350 blockade runner(but I need to get the kit and examine it first) to see if I can fit it in there or if I have to dremel out the resin on the inside to make room for things to fit.I just wish i knew/understood how to do that.Like I mentioned,my weakness is "electronics.

[EVApodman]

No idea about the interior of the rebel runner. I have a resin model of the german nuclear satellite seen in the beginning of 2001 that has the resin cast around a piece of large PVC pipe to reduce the amount of resin needed and the weight. It may be the same with the runner and access to interior may be impossible.

Very few resin kits are made with the idea of the modeler being able to access the interior to do stuff. For the most part they are large lumps of resin that you glue stuff on to.

[jpolacchi]

Well,I'll find out at some point.Blue Moon is doing a new run on the 1/350 scale Blockade Runner (I'm waiting for the new release) so I'm buying one or two kits.Their kits are typically "designed" for lighting if the builder wants to put it in there from what I have read and seen.If there is "more room" for modification maybe I can do it?I an't say at this point?