ABS + glue + PVC = what glue?

[OdysseySlipways]

(i think i asked this a while ago but) is there a good glue to bond ABS plastic sheeting to PVC? i'm having one of those creative moments again that requires gluing ABS plastic to PVC. it would have to be something really good but be workable long enough to position a piece of the ABS sheeting afterwards acting as if it was always a part of the PVC and not want to peal off

[seam-filler]

I don't know what it will be called in the US, but in the UK we have PVC Pipe Weld (various brands). It's for sticking PVC guttering and drainage pipes together. It's hot enough to work with ABS (and styrene for that matter), but use sparingly as it can completely dissolve the ABD part.

[jpolacchi]

MEK (methyl ethyl keetone)...It been taken off the shelves of hardware stores (at least in California) a while ago I believe.That's "the best" weld solvent to use for ABS.I don't know about using PVC cement?I'd call or contact a store/company that makes/manufactures using ABS and styrene(like Tap Plastics) and ask what they are using,see if you can get it directly from them or your local hardware store.

[kenlilly106]

Oatey makes a green cement designed to stick ABS drain piping to PVC drain piping, it's available at Lowe's, et al.
Don't know if the working time will be long enough for what you want to do with it, a lot of the pipe cements are very hot.

Looking around CA seems to work, plus there are some specialty acrylic cements that will work too. Epoxies seem to be so-so.

Contact cements are good for bonding dissimilar materials but they famously have zero positioning time.

Ken

[jpolacchi]

Well..."epoxies" can work on a variety of materials,some plastics it won't. However,remember..."epoxie" is a MECHANICAL BOND as opposed to a "chemical bond" which is more or less,"melting" materials together.A chemical bond is stronger,but there are literally so many kinds of epoxies out there with different holding strengths and curing times.You need to be "quick" with MEK and most other solvents if welding plastics.A 5 minute epoxy more or less 'gives you 5 min', but some other environmental factors can affect curing/working times.You might get less than 5 min and the epoxy can/will set in under 5 min if it is very warm/hot.Basically anything over 70 deg. and higher humidity can affect setting/working times as well.Below 60 degrees and epoxy often "WILL NOT SET/CURE" at all.

[kenlilly106]

Well..., it appears that in the limited research I did a mechanical bond via a cement (CA,epoxy, acrylic, etc.) is your best choice for ABS to PVC vs. a solvent weld like PVC to PVC.

And it may be a case of there's no good solvent weld for ABS to PVC because the chemistries are too dissimilar, I didn't delve into it.

We probably need to know more of what the OP wants to do to make better suggestions.

Ken

[jpolacchi]

I don't know what can weld/melt ABS to PVC.Those are very different plastics chemically speaking.I'd contact a plastics manufacturer.Look up TAP Plastics on a google search.I'd ask them what they use or would use/recommend. MEK works GREAT on ABS and styrene if you can get it.

[OdysseySlipways]

i was looking to build a few things, but damn.....

and it's not like Home Depot or Lowe's sells pvc sheeting

[kenlilly106]

Can you make it work using ABS fittings?

[jpolacchi]

I'd use ABS kit stick with styrene sheet.You could also use acrylic but that requires a different solvent.In most cases it best to stick with "like" materials unless there is some other reason you need to use others that may/may not be difficult to work with.

[TAC]

Have been using a cement called Weicon VA 8312. If you follow the guideline procedures the cement works better than anything I have ever used before. It bonds, but the bond can be broken by levering it. I am currently using the cement to glue such odd plastics together for a scratch model. I am happy with it, and will continue to use it for static displays, but I would hesitate to use it on a RC model where it may get knocked around a bit.

Anyway, below is a link Choosing a Super Glue for Different Types of Plastic. You will notice that the VA 8312 is okay for all sorts of plastic. Bonding can be quick, but curing takes a while.

https://www.swiftsupplies.com.au/blog/n ... s-plastic/

[mike robel]

Plastruct Bondene. Joins PVC to PVC, ABS to ABS, and to each other.

[Rogviler]

For what it's worth, my current project involves PVC, ABS, and kit styrene, and plain old Testors liquid cement has been sticking them all to each other just fine. I know that's largely MEK, so prior suggestions seem to be in that direction anyway.

-Rog

[OdysseySlipways]

the old stand by orange filled tube of glue? would be nice as i was thinking of some .010" and .020" styrene (evergreen) armor plating on pvc

any chance of seeing some pictures?

(thinking now why i was thinking of ABS????.....)

[Rogviler]

Not the tube cement, the liquid cement that comes in a jar with a brush.

https://www.amazon.com/TESTORS-CORPORAT ... B01M06GYMN

That's not to say the other wouldn't work, but I haven't used it since I was 9 so I wouldn't know.

Here's the kludge I'm working on (a jet engine of sorts):



I've had to do a lot of creative engineering to join all the different plastics, but the styrenes and PVC all played well together with just the solvent welding.

-Rog

[OdysseySlipways]

i have some of that on the bench now, i'll have to give it a try

do you lightly sand the surfaces before gluing?

thought it was a light saber at first

[Rogviler]

I don't sand anything, just make sure it's clean. I figure any sanding would be obliterated, as I do apply way more of the cement than I would for a model kit, like 3-4 heavy coats in quick succession, until the surfaces are gooey.

Would be quite a lightsaber, it's about 18" long and too big around to hold with one hand. <- Get your jokes in early.

-Rog

[Kylwell]

PVC piping typically has a hard relatively inert surface. A quick swipe with some sandpaper removes it and can greatly improve adhesion.

[OdysseySlipways]

I do apply way more of the cement than I would for a model kit, like 3-4 heavy coats in quick succession, until the surfaces are gooey.

-Rog

not sure if that'll work if i use armor plating from .010" sheet

i thought maybe you just gave the surfaces a light sanding, held the part in place and glued it

[jpolacchi]

I wouldn't sand anything unless you are melting a large surface area.Just a *drop* or two to flow down a seem,press/hold together until a tad squeezes out and you know you have a good weld/bond.Sand anything "after" its fully cured(sometimes the edge of a hobby knife will do).

[OdysseySlipways]

okay.

i use to lightly sand (with fine wet/dry sand paper) just scratch the surface and also to make micro scratches to help wick the glue further under the surfaces vs just having the edges being the only part being glued. on larger areas, i'd drill little pin-head holes and put a drop in it - sort of like spot welding