Making your own photo-etched parts? How hard? How costly?

[sbaxter]

Hello all --

I've got a project (a large TIE fighter) that requires I re-create some greeblies, most more than once. These will be mostly rather small parts, and I know from experience that trying to create small, fiddly bits from styrene --especially when I need more than one of something and they all need to be identical -- is a one-way ticket to excruciating frustration for me. My TIE fighter will be large but smaller than studio scale, so obtaining the original kit parts wouldn't help, apart from the reference they would offer.

Therefore, I got to thinking that maybe I could make what I need with photo-etch. I may not be able to craft thin, tiny parts from plastic very well, but I can use Adobe Illustrator to draw what I need. I just don't know how difficult and expensive it would be go that route, apart from creating the artwork. I'm wondering if anyone here has done it and can give me the benefit of experience. I could probably make plenty of what I need from a three-inch square piece of brass, although some might be of a different thickness than others -- not sure yet. I also know there are those who offer a service to make parts from supplied artwork, so if anyone has used one of these, I'd be willing to consider such a thing if the expense is reasonable.

Some of the parts I'd like to make would ideally be etched most of the way through the sheet, but not all the way -- and some would not require that.

Any advice to offer as to how to accomplish this, or links to a source that can tell me what I need to know? I have done searches online for all of this at large for this sort of thing, but I put more trust in what I find here, generally speaking. There was also a good bit of outdated, unclear, and contradictory results when I tried to look, resulting in formation overload that churned my ADD into a frenzy.

Qapla'

SSB

[Kylwell]

It's not that hard since photo-reactive masking material has gotten cheaper. MicroMark offers a kit and even SSM has an article on it. Really need to bug Frank to update this. http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/fh_pe.htm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NntLi4KcLlI

[Rocketeer]

The Micro-Mark kit is really well done; everything you need, well-written instructions. The max workpiece size is about 3" x 3", max thickness about 0.015". Here are some parts I made for my latest project using the kit:

[sbaxter]

Thanks for the replies. Regarding the Micro-Mark kit, I presume a good percentage of the cost goes toward the laminator. The price is a bit steep for me right now, to be honest. I wonder if a used laminator of some other type might serve well enough -- and I see how-to videos which make no mention of using one at all. I know it is common for these little niche-market appliances to be re-badged versions of machines originally developed for a different purpose. I suppose more research is warranted.

I guess if I need parts thicker than 0.015 inch, stacking more than one piece would be one option.

Qapla'

SSB

[Kylwell]

Using spray on etching blocker eliminates the need for the laminator

[sbaxter]

Using spray on etching blocker eliminates the need for the laminator

Okay -- good to know. Thanks!

Qapla'

SSB

[ajmadison]

Hmm... I may have to learn of this spray on etch-blocker.

BTW, for those going with Micro-mark system, the motorized laminator is crucial. There have been hand cranked versions, or even adaptations of pasta makers pressed into service, and the results are disappointing. Even and constant pressure as the stack is sent through the laminator is crucial to getting a good clean etch, or so I have heard. Even the momentary pause or slightly slower speed in the circle as the crank goes around is enough to not get good contact, and the etch gets fuzzy at those points.

[sbaxter]

for those going with Micro-mark system, the motorized laminator is crucial. There have been hand cranked versions, or even adaptations of pasta makers pressed into service, and the results are disappointing. Even and constant pressure as the stack is sent through the laminator is crucial to getting a good clean etch

So, wait -- does the laminator simply apply pressure, or is there heat involved as well?

If it is just pressure, I have access to a motorized laminator ( a big one) right behind me every day at work. It just isn't a hot laminator. I never use it to actually laminate anything, but I do use it when I spray-mount photos and posters or whatever to foam board. Just place the sprayed artwork fairly lightly in place on the board and then run the whole thing through the machine -- makes it nice and smooth and flat all the way across, with any bubbles eliminated.

Qapla'

SSB

[Rocketeer]

...So, wait -- does the laminator simply apply pressure, or is there heat involved as well?...

The Micro-Mark laminator is heated.

[Kylwell]

IIRC the original system was meant to use laser toner as a blocking agent, which is why the need for a hot laminator.

[novahobbies]

Funny that this has come up this month, I also have found a need to get a couple small parts etched. I came here to look and lo and behold...seems like we're in the same boat! I'm frustrated because all I need to etch is one tiny oval 'hoop,' but such is life as they say. I ordered my starter supplies today!

[sbaxter]

Well, I've come to the conclusion that photo-etch might be appropriate for some of what I need, but not all, mainly because it isn't thick enough. I'm currently brainstorming on methods I might use to make what I need from plastic. But I still expect photo-etch will be a solution I need to try at some point, just maybe not on this project.

Qapla'

SSB