re-scratching a 1/350 kit part

[jpolacchi]

So,this is what I have been thinking about doing for a long time(maybe it is a lost cause?).I've been wanting to re-scratch a part to a resin kit because it is cast SOLID and it is near impossible to modify it.You really have to butcher the hell out of it to hollow out the bridge to be able to light it.The kit is actually the VERY NICELY MADE 1/350 Blockade Runner by JPG.I'm not sure how to go about starting on this project.Also,its will be really hard to re-create all the super tiny details on t.I think the original masters were 3D printed?I looked into shapeways making the part,no one will do it due to "the hours and cost" involved.So,I'm back to scratching the piece.I just want to be able to match the original kit part as closely as possible.I don't even know what kit bashing parts were even used on the ILM miniature and it would be impossible to find anything in scale to use for this smaller 1/350 scaled kit.I may be able to "fake it" if I knew what parts were used for maybe the larger areas,but that's a 'BIG IF'.I'd have to use HO scale or find something even tinier and I'm jot sure I even want to do that?I wouldn't even really know what to use short of maybe finding some very small scale photo etch detail kits for aircraft,tanks,F1 cars or something like that? In any case,I just am not sure where to begin to map out the shape of the piece and get the panels cut correctly.I just need a starting point.Any help or assistance would be much appreciated.

[EVApodman]

You are starting at what is going to be an awesome project. Right now you have just started thinking about all the details and work involved. If this was 20 years ago your only option would be to re-create the pats out of styrene and other small parts.

Right now I suggest you find a friend or someone her with a 3D printer who can make your basic shapes so you can replace the solid one with hollow pieces. Yes, that will probably cost you to made the CAD drawings and the cost of using the printer, but that will save you months of trying to re-create something by hand out of styrene. Believe me I know.

Once that is done then you can start trying to find small detail pieces.

[jpolacchi]

I have attempted to find someone through shapeways.He doesn't seem he wants to take on the project because of the hours involved.He says it will be too costly.Unfortunately I do not know how to create 3D files and I don't have any close friends with a printer than can make fine,detailed parts.I am still thinking about scratching the shape and maybe making all the panel parts of styrene and/or ABS.The small parts?I don't know?I think I can fake some things using the smallest of kit donar parts I can find and maybe scrapping together plastistruct pieces and strip styrene. Much of that is what looks like its on the original kit piece anyway.Right now "the hump" I'm trying to get over is blueprints.Something to follow to make the part(s).I might have access to a lathe and I can turn some parts.Maybe out of ABS or PVC?Then move onto doing some of the basic building.I'm just in the thinking stage,but I hope not to be "here" forever.

[EVApodman]

Try asking the person who made the Sulaco 3D kit in the On the Bench thread. He might find it challenging. As for small detail parts, the sources for that can be almost anything but most people use 1/72 scale kits. Tank kits are the best source for small detail parts to use. You won't be able to find the EXACT replacement but you can probably find something that's close.

I spent 7 years creating from scratch by hand the 54" resin Discovery that was sold first by TimeSlip and then by Federation models a few years back so I know what's involved.

[Andrew Gorman]

Why not just make a mold of the original part and cast it hollow? Otherwise, it looks like the bridge window could be hollowed out by drilling straight back with a long drill bit (aircraft drill) all the way to the back of the neck for your wires, and then just opened up from the front. Just a suggestion, not necessarily a good one based on the pictures at:
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/ ... 1896887621

[jpolacchi]

I've seen one person do that (Nick did it)and you really have to butcher the part to hog out the inside and you only get "one shot" doing so.No room for error as far as I can see.Re-Casting it might make a more inferior part and casting it hollow might also leave it open to "warping".I'm still thinking about what i;m going to do,but i have other projects I'm starting first.Re-scratching the Revell At-At.

[MillenniumFalsehood]

If it were me, I would use my drill press to hollow out most of the interior of the hammerhead, then after that I would rough-cut the bridge window and file it open. Finally, I would use my dremel to carve out more and more of the interior, using the window as a guide for how much resin is left to carve away, and then I would scratchbuild the bridge to put behind the window.

[jpolacchi]

Yeah,that's what Nick did for some commission build. I've been thinking about doing that also.I found these weird photo-etched saw blades made by Tamiya at the hobby shop. They are really thin,like .015 to .020 fine toothed saw blades.I thought about using one of those to cut the end off and start from there.I guess if I bugger it up bad,I might be able to contact Jimi and get a replacement for the kit and just scrap the idea after that if I really screw up.