working with ABS

[jpolacchi]

So,(sort of a new topic). I have this 3d printed kit I bought that just arrived after 4-5 months and the parts are printed(I believe) in ABS(not styrene).Its big,when assembled it should stand about 24-26 inches in height. I've never really worked with much ABS plastic.It has some similarities to styrene. Its a bit tougher and more resilient,has a slightly higher melting temperature.I'm not entirely certain how to "prep" the plastic aside from cleaning it (washing the parts in a tub,spraying it down with alcohol)and shooting some primer on it.I don't know how it sands if I need to.It won't sand like styrene I don't believe?ISo,anyone ever work with ABS in a kit before?'m really not sure?Other than that, I just think the parts need to be cleaned up.Most of the assembly of this particular kit is with socket head cap screws, so the kit is fully articulate. So, I might be buying a tool of two from Micro Mark. Some parts and assemblies are glued together and I wish I still had some MEK for that.

[Rogviler]

There's not a huge difference between ABS and plain styrene (that's what the "S" stands for, after all). In general you can treat it like a tougher version of kit styrene. I've always had it sand, glue, and paint just fine.

[southwestforests]

My experience with ABS is mostly with Plastruct's raw materials and a few recent plastic model kits which were molded in ABS instead of Polystyrene.
ABS glues better with a different liquid cement than typical styrene does. Beyond that ABS accepts common model building paints and putties just fine.
Sands well too.

[southwestforests]

Here are references from 2 outfits who are in the ABS retailing and gluing business,

https://www.plastiblocks.com/post/2018/ ... gluing-abs

https://plastruct.myshopify.com/pages/t ... sds-sheets

[Andrew Gorman]

For glue, make sure it contains methylene chloride! ABS can be resistant to normal styrene liquid cements. Any cement for acrylics or plexiglas will work well.

[jpolacchi]

Yeah, I know about the solvent used on ABS. I've just never really worked with ABS beyond priming and painting a sheet of it. Anyone have any MEK they want to sell to me? I can't get real MEK here on the west coast. The EPA did away with that solvent like 15 or 20 years ago here. There's only "replacement" MEK and that goes for Acetone, Lacquer thinner, NAPTHA, Mineral Spirits. I can't get those either. I used to be able to walk into a hardware store and buy it by the pint, quart, half gallon, gallon(or 5 gallons if need be).Not anymore.

P.S: here's a link to the kit I bought for anyone curious: https://www.etsy.com/de/listing/7538523 ... nager_grid

[Moonlight SY-3]

I have no idea about overseas availability, but Tamiya makes a nice ABS glue:

https://www.tamiya.com/japan/products/87137/index.html

[southwestforests]

overseas availability, but Tamiya makes a nice ABS glue:

Just now looked at 5 different places I've ordered hobby supplies from here in US and none listed it though several had other Tamiya cements.

It is also turns out to be not listed on the Japan website's English language page for cements,
https://www.tamiya.com/english/products ... 870S01.htm

[seam-filler]

overseas availability, but Tamiya makes a nice ABS glue:

Just now looked at 5 different places I've ordered hobby supplies from here in US and none listed it though several had other Tamiya cements.

It is also turns out to be not listed on the Japan website's English language page for cements,
https://www.tamiya.com/english/products ... 870S01.htm

The Tamiya product code number you need is 87137 and is on their website... https://www.tamiya.com/english/products ... 870S02.htm

Having said that, it may be that it is not for sale in the US because of its chemical make up. It is not generally available in the UK for this reason but it is in Europe and (at least until Brexit) one could get it shipped to the UK from there.

Personally I use EMA's (Plastruct) cement which is meant for ABS and is perfectly fine for 'normal' styrene.

[southwestforests]

The Tamiya product code number you need is 87137 and is on their website... https://www.tamiya.com/english/products ... 870S02.htm

Hmm, interesting, the web wasn't offering me that page 2 and the option of going back or forward at the time I was looking.
Oh well, it is not odd for there to be occasional glitches in the web, in ISPs, in computers, in browsers.
Which brings to mind a thing a week or so ago of YouTube regularly inserting a message like "your browser is unable to play this video" at an irregular count of videos clicked on.
Oh, Really?
In 2 browsers each on 2 different computers?
Refresh page and then it played just fine.

[Andrew Gorman]

MEK is Methyl Ethyl Ketone- what you need to look for is methylene chloride somewhere in the ingredients. In California I use TAP plastics acrylic cement-
https://www.tapplastics.com/product/rep ... WREALw_wcB

[jpolacchi]

Yeah, but acrylic cement/solvent doesn't work on ABS. I need MEK and no one will ship it over state lines either, at least not direct through a company. It is "flammable", but I think the safest time of year would be to ship it during winter months so long as it is kept from any kind of ignition source and packaged properly. It won't (shouldn't) expand, turn to vapor, or off gas like it would in summer temperatures. Driving to Nevada right now isn't much of an option with all the snow.

[Wug]

I've always used Plastruct Plastic Weld to solvent bond ABS. You can also use CA or epoxy. I prime it with Mr. Surfacer.

[jpolacchi]

I'm not a big super glue fan. The only hobby shop near me doesn't hardly carry anything. They just aren't stocking the store like they did 2 years ago. I can barely order a kit through them any more. The last time the kits never arrived, but they were Bandai kits and I think Bandai is/was limiting what they were producing. It was easier to find what I wanted on EVIL BAY. If I can, I think I'd rather just get like a 1/2 gallon of MEK from someone. I just don't know how since mail order is out of the question. I'd need to have a friend do it for me. I may have an option in Michigan. I'd have to ask if they'd be willing? I'm not sure how that would be disclosed as far as ground shipping went. It have to be labeled "flammable" or something?

[southwestforests]

I'm not sure how that would be disclosed as far as ground shipping went. It have to be labeled "flammable" or something?

Yep ...

The contents must be disclosed to be mailable.

https://pe.usps.com/text/pub52/pub52c2_007.htm

[seam-filler]

It won't (shouldn't) expand, turn to vapor, or off gas like it would in summer temperatures. Driving to Nevada right now isn't much of an option with all the snow.

Unless the van it's in is in an accident. Then flammability may well become an issue.

On top of that, MEK is extremely toxic - there have been plenty of posts here in the past where people flatly refuse to use MEK because of that. Therefore, the greatest danger transporting it is its toxicity and not so much flammability.

[jpolacchi]

Well, just about every solvent out there is toxic. You aren't supposed to drink it, wash your hands with it, or stick your nose into the can and breath it in. I'd have to find out how that solvent might be categorized for ground shipping aside from flammable, I don't know what else to have it labeled with.

[Andrew Gorman]

If you're dead set on MEK, PVC primer is about 30% MEK. I've used it as a model solvent cement is a pinch. There is a clear primer now so you are not stuck with the purple.

[jpolacchi]

I might give that a try. So, ifPVC cement is 30% MEK, is it just a slower cure, or it doesn't melt the plastic as much? I still may be able to get it (and a number of other solvents I am in need of) from someone, but it depends on what it costs and how big a risk there might be.

[Andrew Gorman]

It's not PVC Cement you want- it is the PVC Primer that you smear on the pipe before you use the cement. It's the runny stuff in the can with a pompom applicator attached to the cap. It's a witches brew of solvents, cheap and available at any hardware store. Stinks to high heaven! It flashes off slower than the old Ambroid Pro Weld, but still quick. I used it on some motel projects when I was in the middle of nowhere as a last resort and it worked for me. Just a suggestion, not necessarily a good one. Here's a random SDS:
https://beta.lakeland.edu/AboutUs/MSDS/ ... -17-14.pdf
and a big box link
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-8-fl-oz- ... 1000771896