Dust! How to vanquish it?

[sbaxter]

How do you remove dust from something prior to applying paint? Best tips and tricks appreciated ...

Qapla'

SSB

[jpolacchi]

Is the kit built or has it already been assembled? Does it have wiring inside it? If the kit is unbuilt, wash the kit in a tub of tepid warm water()NOT *HOT) and dish soap. Scrub the part/parts with an old tooth brush then just let it air dry. You can even use a little AJAX or COMIT cleanser and scrub away. Not only should it remove the dust, but all the heavy mold release used to make the kit in the injection mold. If the kit is already assembled, Ummm...hard to say if the water will ever completely dry? I think it should, it will just take allot longer. Basically the same procedure. if you have installed wiring and lights, you will have to skip this procedure. I'm thinking you would need to wipe the model down with a damp cloth(repeat),let it air dry, blow it with air from your air compressor if you have one or you can use that "air" in a can stuff that is used to clean out key boards. You might be able to wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and use a tac cloth when you get close to thinking(and inspecting) that the kit is clean. I think this would be a longer procedure, but this is if you have lights and wiring inside your kit and the kit is assembled and you can't submerge it. If not, just wash it like I said.

[Kylwell]

Generally I'll mist on some bathroom cleaner then use warm water and gentle water from the spray or shower head to rinse it off. If the decals come off the water is too warm and/or you used too much soap.

[jpolacchi]

Decals shouldn't come off if the kit is painted and the decals have been "sealed" with a clear coat.

[USSARCADIA]

Sometimes I’ll use a tack cloth, from Home Desperate or a paint store. It’s basically cheesecloth with a sticky substance that removes dust quite well. Works better on larger items.

[jpolacchi]

A tac cloth is good for smooth surfaces, but if your kit has allot of raised and recessed surface detail...not so good.That's why(if you can) washing the kit is better and does two things.Removed any dust/dirt and also removes the mold releases.

[Lt. Z0mBe]

I wash with Windex or isoporopyl alcohol (90-percent). If there’s any primer that doesn’t like alcohol or Windex, I’ll use water and a lint-free paper towel to clean, followed by a tac rag. I still use the tac rag even if using Windex or alcohol. I switched to alcohol after noticing how badly Stynylrez primer lifts from stock styrene when removing masks. The alcohol argument was the only thing the folks at Badger could come up with, as they clean their builds with alcohol and that Windex does leave behind some kind of residue. But this is far from proven, especially since the stuff still lifts on me like nothing ever has. And yes, I do all the stuff you’d expect some to do to prevent primer from lifting when removing masks. Other than that, Stynylrez is the best primer I have ever used, so I stick with it.

Also, for recessed panel lines and other recessed details loaded with dirt and sanding gunk, load some alcohol or water in your airbrush, set your pressure to the maximum safe level, and blast the gunk out. Take care, of course, to not flood any important things like wiring, cockpits and the like. Then wipe down as mentioned above until it’s clean.

Check for dust like you’d check a seam you’re trying to get rid of, by viewing it in relief, under fluorescents or LEDs, with some good optics and from multiple angles. If you can, store the de-dusted parts under a hard cover like a box. Lightly mist the inside of the box with water or clear gloss to lock in any dust before using it as a cover,

If you happen to get a bit of dust during a primer or color coat, a lot of times you can let the coat dry thoroughly and then gently, but deliberately, flick it free from the paint using a small chisel or even a piece of sprue cut flatly. Hit the little divet remaining with a shot of paint from your airbrush. It’s not 100-percent, but you can get away with this trick more often than not.

I hope this helps a bit.

Kenny

[jpolacchi]

A long time ago Polly S (I think that was part of Floquil then) made something that was supposed to take "static" out of plastic models so it would not accumulate dust so easily. I'm not sure it was a "forever" 100% thing? Alas, Floquil is no more and Testors for the most part has been restructured, the Floquil line killed and everything else attributed along with it. You may still find a seller on EVIL BAY selling it, but expect to pay BIG $$ for it. I used to have some(barely used it) but I think poor storage and age did my supply in. Not sure it is good for anything anymore?

[jpolacchi]

A long time ago Polly S (I think that was part of Floquil then) made something that was supposed to take "static" out of plastic models so it would not accumulate dust so easily. I'm not sure it was a "forever" 100% thing? Alas, Floquil is no more and Testors for the most part has been restructured, the Floquil line killed and everything else attributed along with it. You may still find a seller on EVIL BAY selling it, but expect to pay BIG $$ for it. I used to have some(barely used it) but I think poor storage and age did my supply in. Not sure it is good for anything anymore?

[jpolacchi]

A long time ago Polly S (I think that was part of Floquil then) made something that was supposed to take "static" out of plastic models so it would not accumulate dust so easily. I'm not sure it was a "forever" 100% thing? Alas, Floquil is no more and Testors for the most part has been restructured, the Floquil line killed and everything else attributed along with it. You may still find a seller on EVIL BAY selling it, but expect to pay BIG $$ for it. I used to have some(barely used it) but I think poor storage and age did my supply in. Not sure it is good for anything anymore?

[jpolacchi]

I don't know what happened, but my post got duplicated. I can't find where to delete it? If someone wants to, that can delete the extra posts. No need the the extra two.

[Lt. Z0mBe]

A long time ago Polly S (I think that was part of Floquil then) made something that was supposed to take "static" out of plastic models so it would not accumulate dust so easily. I'm not sure it was a "forever" 100% thing? Alas, Floquil is no more and Testors for the most part has been restructured, the Floquil line killed and everything else attributed along with it. You may still find a seller on EVIL BAY selling it, but expect to pay BIG $$ for it. I used to have some(barely used it) but I think poor storage and age did my supply in. Not sure it is good for anything anymore?

Yeah, I bought some from Micro-Mark and it smelled exactly like alcohol. Others have chimed in over the years and said they they knew it was isopropyl, but I don’t recall a source. That being said, a good wipedown with alcohol or Windex will knock the static out of a build. Basically, if you move a dry cloth over smooth plastic, or just handle plastic really, in a dry environment, the free (static) electrons get evenly distributed over the surface and impart a slightly negative charge to the surface. This attracts dust. Wipe down with liquid like alcohol or Windex, and the free electrons flow to other surfaces and get more concentrated. The surface no longer attracts dust until it gets free electrons distributed over it again.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

[seam-filler]

I use a tack cloth for un-detailed surfaces. Where there are a lot of breakables, I use a blast from a perfectly clean, dry airbrush (with an inline moisture trap).

And to prevent more dust settling, I have some old packing cardboard soaked in water for a while at the back of my spray booth - this tends to attract any dust while you're painting.

[Rocketeer]

I'd be a little careful when using alcohol to wipe down a model. Once when I fouled up an airbrushed acrylic paint job, I used alcohol to strip it, and it worked a treat.

[Lt. Z0mBe]

I'd be a little careful when using alcohol to wipe down a model. Once when I fouled up an airbrushed acrylic paint job, I used alcohol to strip it, and it worked a treat.

Of course. My posts above were assuming bare plastic or primed models compatible with alcohol or Windex.

Kenny

[Bellerophon]

Here I thought by vanquishing dust, sbaxter, you meant getting the air clean in the first place. Sort of like Mr. Miyagi said, "Best way to avoid punch, not be there."

I have a serious dust problem at my workbench, and aside from giving the room yet another serious cleaning, I plan to try a simple trick from Barbatos Rex's YouTube channel: duct tape four 20 inch furnace filters together to form a box, then duct tape a 20" box fan lying on top of that, blowing upwards to suck air through the filters.

I recently had an experience like I think Rocketeer was alluding to. I was removing dust from a painted model, and a damp cloth wasn't cutting it. The dust seemed to be chemically bonded to the paint, so I tried alcohol. This faded the paint. Not a problem if you're planning to paint over it, but that wasn't my plan.

[sbaxter]

Here I thought by vanquishing dust, sbaxter, you meant getting the air clean in the first place.

That would be ideal, especially as my workspace is eventually going to to be in my woodworking shop once the latter is finished. Eventually my children will move out …

There is a bona fide clean room at work. I thought about asking if I could use it, if only to see the looks on the faces of whoever I ask!

Qapla'

SSB

[Wug]

Here's a dust post from years ago.

At a model club meeting decades ago,‭ ‬some of us complained about the troubles we had with dust.‭ ‬Others claimed they never had dust problems.‭ ‬The modelers with dust problems were all single.‭ ‬Married modelers were dust free.‭ ‬Apparently,‭ ‬the presence of a woman in the house keeps dust and lint from landing on scale models.‭ ‬Here are a few‭ ‬other‭ ‬things that help.‭

If you think the dust might be on the model before you start painting,‭ ‬try wiping it down with rubbing alcohol.‭ ‬Some modelers use tack cloths,‭ ‬I've never had much luck with those.

Like Marco Scheloske and Kylwell said,‭ ‬a while before you paint,‭ ‬spray the room with a plant mister filled with water.‭ ‬The water mist will knock some of the dust out of the air and help with static electricity.

Cover the model while it dries.‭ ‬I used cardboard boxes then changed to plastic storage containers.‭ ‬Now I use an unplugged food dehydrator with most of the trays cut out to make room for large parts.‭ ‬I cover the food dehydrator with a plastic bag.‭ ‬Remember don’t plug it in.

I try to reduce other sources of dust and lint.‭ ‬Instead of lining the painting area with newspaper,‭ ‬I use freezer paper.‭ ‬I wipe models and clean my airbrush with coffee filters instead of using paper towels.‭ ‬On this board years ago,‭ ‬someone recommended a specialized wipe made for either the medical or chemical industry.

If you’re painting and dust lands on the model,‭ ‬you might be able to avoid sanding and repainting.‭ ‬Stop painting and let the area around the dust flash dry.‭ ‬Try to blow the dust off.‭ ‬If that doesn’t work,‭ ‬you can try lifting the dust off with some masking tape.‭ ‬In my experience,‭ ‬this works about‭ ‬10%‭ ‬to‭ ‬20%‭ ‬of the time for flat paint.

I cleaned and dusted the modeling room before painting.‭ ‬A year or two ago I read an article in a model car magazine from the sixties or early seventies.‭ ‬A winner of one of the big national contests recommended not cleaning the room before painting because it stirs up dust.‭ ‬Now I don't know what to do.‭ ‬Do the other SSMers clean before they paint or do they let sleeping dust bunnies lie‭?

If you want a flawless deep gloss finish that wins at model car contests,‭ ‬you might need a wife or a maid.

HTH,

Mike‭