best way to join 2 VERY similar parts with different curves

[trekkist]

Few years back, Moebius was kind enough to send me a 4-window Seaview's prow underside and flying sub bay. No doubt somebody in customer service nearly died laughing at my idea of kitbashing an 8 window with flying sub.

And yes, the FS bay fits just right under where the observation deck floor would sit. But the 4 window's manta fins curve quite a bit differently than the 8 window's prow ventral side, which I hadn't considered, having never until then compared the two.

Brainstorming, I figured on maybe softening the ventral section in simmering water (a lot of it, so to not get TOO hot), clamping the parts together, crossing my fingers the ventral part would "set" with a curve a good deal closer to 8 window manta fins. Wait and see, heat and repeat...

I imagine some kitbasher has tried something like this. Maybe add a correctly-curved jig under the ventral (kind of like reverse vac-forming), clamp and wait, etc, and when close enough, add glue and putty?

Nightmare scenario is the glued parts start to pull away from one another, perhaps distorting the 8 window sections.

Anyone have any suggestions? Or second guessing of my theoretical procedures? Dumbfounded emojis? Condescending mockery?

All replies appreciated in advance.

[EVApodman]

I never made he Seaview but I can imaging your situation since I have been in similar situations.

First off go slow. Think each step through. Several times what I imagined doesn't work out because I couldn't get the right grip or right positioning that I thought I could to do what I needed.

Is it possible to do this sections or stages? Perhaps you can anchor one part solidly and work from there. In some cases I used a drop of Super glue to hold the piece in place while I held them securely with my hands until it sets. The advantage of this is the glue will set in one minute or less and provide a good solid starting point that then allows me to continue on using regular glue and getting a good joint.

Another good idea may be to do a section, let it dry overnight and then doing the next section to insure the earlier joint doesn't come loose.

[trekkist]

Thanks. "Take it slow" is a definite, for sure. I...hadn't thought of trying just a bit at a time, but it occurs to me that supergluing is reversible (just add fingernail cleaner). So if the end result was awful...back to the building board!

Again, thanks!

[Andrew Gorman]

Can you splice just the sub bay into the 8 window bottom? or just trim down the 4 window bottom where it starts to diverge from the 8 window fins? Dry fit both of the bottoms and take a good hard look at how they go together. My first impulse would be to use as much of the 8 window fins as possible, and splice in the sub bay bottom section. Looking at the instructions that seems lie the easiest approach- cut a rectangular hole and fit the bay. Or better yet, if it will work amputate the bottom fins on longitudinal lines where they start to diverge and use the whole center section with the bay.

[EVApodman]

Thanks. "Take it slow" is a definite, for sure. I...hadn't thought of trying just a bit at a time, but it occurs to me that supergluing is reversible (just add fingernail cleaner). So if the end result was awful...back to the building board!

Again, thanks!

Do not use fingernail or nail polish remover on a plastic model! The main ingredient is acetone which is also an ingredient in glue. It will melt the plastic!

[trekkist]

Thanks for the acetone reminder! I've cleaned superglue from my fingers with it so many times I'd come to think of it as (relatively) "harmless."

>Can you splice just the sub bay into the 8 window bottom? or just trim down the 4 window bottom where it starts to diverge from the 8 window fins? Dry fit both of the bottoms and take a good hard look at how they go together.

Both good ideas. It's been a long time (years, probably) since I actually compared my parts, and it's not unlikely that on doing so I was mentally "locked into" the combination of the two. Splicing or even scratchbuilding the sub bay certainly seems the way to go.

Incidentally, if anyone's interested, there's a particular brand of beverage whose transparent bottles are an EXACT match for the kit's interior ribs...meaning that a modeler far more ambitious than me could leave the kit's fore-to-aft seam unglued, so to be able to slide the whole thing apart to reveal a FULL interior built (slid) into the ex-beverage cylinders...