Future floor polish

talon · Post by **talon** » Sat Dec 25, 2010 9:29 pm

Okay, my question didn't get answered, but it was like last or next to last on the previous page.

What is the best way to clean Future from the airbrush? Windex? Lacquer thinner?

Butters · Post by **Butters** » Sun Dec 26, 2010 2:31 am

talon wrote:Okay, my question didn't get answered, but it was like last or next to last on the previous page.

What is the best way to clean Future from the airbrush? Windex? Lacquer thinner?

I use Windex with no problems.

Wug · Post by **Wug** » Sun Dec 26, 2010 7:35 am

To clean my airbrush after spraying Future I usually use isopropyl alcohol. Regular 70% rubbing alcohol works okay. The 91% and 99% work better.

Mike

talon · Post by **talon** » Sun Dec 26, 2010 12:52 pm

Thanks guys.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Dec 26, 2010 3:24 pm

Windex, lacquer thinner is overkill.

Glorfindel · Post by **Glorfindel** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:58 pm

Vodka.

Butters · Post by **Butters** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 1:33 am

Glorfindel wrote:Vodka.

Vodka has a higher purpose.

Ramsayman · Post by **Ramsayman** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 6:03 pm

Hmmmm.....

Lonewolf · Post by **Lonewolf** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 6:39 pm

Wug wrote:To clean my airbrush after spraying Future I usually use isopropyl alcohol. Regular 70% rubbing alcohol works okay. The 91% and 99% work better.

Mike

Same here . . . followed by a rinse of hot water to flush everything out.

ModelMan · Post by **ModelMan** » Thu Feb 02, 2012 3:34 pm

I've been casually glancing around for Future for years and never once seen it here in los angeles. The other day I had a nightmare result from regular rustoleum painters touch clear gloss and set about to deliberately find Future.

Several stores and lots of driving and no dice. Just got home, did a general web search and got this SSM thread. Learning of all the different names, I searched more and found this:

http://www.scjohnson.com/en/products/as ... -Floor-Wax

clip:
"The Future® Floor Polish product was renamed under the Pledge® brand in November of 2007. It is now Pledge® Premium Finish with Future® Shine. Don't worry – it is still the same great Future® formula, just a new name and still provides that durable, long lasting shine. "

I probably saw Pledge and didn't think anything of it. I also saw things like Mop and Glo. I didn't come across any straight-up floor waxes, they all had some kind of 'cleaner' in them (even the mop and glo).

Are plain old floor waxes just as good? What about a car wax like Turtle Wax?

Anyone come across alternate products? I didn't see much in the 9 pages of this thread that covers that, though someone asked a similar question on page 1 or 2 and never got an answer.

Cheers.

ModelMan · Post by **ModelMan** » Thu Feb 02, 2012 7:59 pm

Three grocery stores, a pharmacy and finally a hardware store had it... But, not the package I was expecting.

I expected this:
http://www.rocketreviews.com/image-futu ... -47978.jpg

I found this:
http://http.cdnlayer.com/ec1images/225/ ... 11i_ab.jpg

The second pkg says all the same things the first does, but with different prominence and in a different way.

Hoping it's the same thing for our purposes.

ModelMan · Post by **ModelMan** » Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:58 pm

To summarize the last 9 pages as I understand them:

1. It can be used straight thru an airbrush, though some folks will add 2-3 drops of dish soap to break the tension, while others will thin with 10%-50% water or windex or isopropyl alcohol. A few others will use a hair brush, as it is self-leveling, but depending on how thick it goes down, brush strokes can remain and never disappear without complete removal and refinishing.

2. Some folks wait as little as 30 minutes between several thin coats and others will wait as long as 24hrs between coats. A few folks think rather than several thin coats, one or two heavy coats gets the job done just as well. Whichever way, letting enamel paints cure thoroughly (24hrs+) is common for all, though acrylic paints don't need that long as it is also acrylic.

3. Shoot at 15-20psi and no higher or pebbling and other problems can occur.

4. Most agree that windex or isopropyl is all that's needed to clean an airbrush, though some just use plain hot water.

5. Results. A few people have had some very ugly results, but there doesn't seem to be any consistency on why, while others have never had a problem in years of using it.

6. "It". What to call this stuff. Everyone calls it Future, even though it's not called Future anywhere on the planet anymore. It can't be called Pledge for shorthand as that name is more associated with furniture polish. And the idea of calling it Pledge Floor Finish for Vinyl and Tile with Future Shine is just an exercise in inanity. That is neverminding the different names it has outside the USA for the same darn thing.

7. Everyone agrees this link is the definitive word.
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

I think I got it all there?

Glorfindel · Post by **Glorfindel** » Thu Mar 15, 2012 6:47 pm

ModelMan that's the stuff. They changed the label those filthy little bastards!

starsend · Post by **starsend** » Thu Mar 29, 2012 7:09 am

Glorfindel wrote:ModelMan that's the stuff. They changed the label those filthy little bastards!

It's impossible to find here in Spain. I bought an alternative one that people say is the same and made a mess of my airbrush! A friend is traveling to NY next week and I'll ask him if he can get me a bottle. Could anyone be so kind as to post a current photo of the bottle and a couple of store names where he can find one? And to think that during those 6 year living in the US I could have stocked up for the rest of my life!!

ModelMan · Post by **ModelMan** » Thu Mar 29, 2012 7:14 am

http://www.pledge.com/en-US/Products/Pa ... shine.aspx

I got mine at an Ace Hardware store.

starsend · Post by **starsend** » Wed Apr 11, 2012 5:11 am

ModelMan wrote:http://www.pledge.com/en-US/Products/Pa ... shine.aspx

I got mine at an Ace Hardware store.

Thanks Tom, just had a bottle brought to me from NY. Looking forward to trying it. Have you been using it?

ModelMan · Post by **ModelMan** » Wed Apr 11, 2012 5:38 am

starsend wrote:Thanks Tom, just had a bottle brought to me from NY. Looking forward to trying it. Have you been using it?

I decided not to use on this current model as I don't want to introduce an unknown into the situation this late in the game. Too much risk. But when I've had time to test it out, I am sure it will be my new standard.

starsend · Post by **starsend** » Wed Apr 11, 2012 3:12 pm

ModelMan wrote:
starsend wrote:Thanks Tom, just had a bottle brought to me from NY. Looking forward to trying it. Have you been using it?
I decided not to use on this current model as I don't want to introduce an unknown into the situation this late in the game. Too much risk. But when I've had time to test it out, I am sure it will be my new standard.

I hear you. I did the same, finished my current model (D7) with what I'm used to and will save the future for the next. Cyrus to see how everything turns out!

kenno3 · Post by **kenno3** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 4:34 am

Im dipping a small clear part in Future and brushing on touch up spots. But im having problems with the liquid not “sticking” evenly to all surfaces. It’s like when you spread out a water drop on a surface, and it tries to pull back into itself to make a drop again. The Future is doing this before it has time to dry evenly on a surface, so part of the surface isn’t glossy.

I don’t have an airbrush. Would thinning the Future help it spread out more? And should I use water or alcohol?

What I currently do is pour Future in a small bucket 3 inches deep. Then dip the part in. Then pour the Future back in its normal container.

So if I mix 20% water with Future, then pour it back in the container when not in use, is it storable like that? Or would the added water affect the Future formula over time more than 20%? Thanks.

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 8:36 am

I'll take a shot at this.... sounds like the part may have some release agent on it. Did you clean the part prior to dipping it in the Future?

kenno3 · Post by **kenno3** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 3:37 pm

No. It's epoxy resin which I poured in a silicone mold without mold release, to avoid water marks in the cure (and the mold doesnt seem to need it). After it was cured, I pulled the part out while wearing Nitrile gloves to protect from fingerprints.
http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-10 ... 68497.html

Then I put the part under a cover to air out for over 72 hours. I didnt even clean it with water because the part was already reasonably clear, so I didnt want to add any contamination. The only thing that might have touched the surfaces besides the gloves, are my bare fingers, which I wash with dish washing soap.

It could be something is preventing the Future from sticking. But to me it seems just like normal surface tension, not letting the liquid spread out thin enough.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 3:55 pm

1 you can try adding a little surfactant to the Future.

2 let the part cure for a while longer, potentially as long as a month, as the epoxy may still be fully uncured.

kenno3 · Post by **kenno3** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 4:03 pm

Thanks, ill try 1. Any advice on surfactants which work on clear parts (they dont discolor)? Ive heard of Jet dry but it looks blue.

And you dont think thinning the Future with water or alcohol would help at all?
Ive been trying to brush Future onto the parts that didnt cure "wet" so ill let a 2nd layer dry and report back.

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 5:48 pm

Under the description on the gloves....

•Textured fingertips for a better grip
•Superior chemical resistance
•Comfortable fit and feel
•Fits right or left hand
•Powder and latex free

This statement (Powder and latex free).... maybe the Powder is the issue? Maybe it picked some up some powder on the surface of the gloves from being in the box with the other gloves and it transfered onto the piece?

I try to stay away from gloves with powder for the fear of getting some of the powder in contact with the model.

kenno3 · Post by **kenno3** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:00 pm

Ill be more careful with the gloves. It seems I can brush on a layer of Future on spots that didnt get the wet look, by holding the part close to a desk lamp (which gets warm), then brushing over the spot multiple times until the Future dries enough to stick. But actually, getting a good drip on the spot and letting it dry on without brushing, works better for clarity.

I put the part under a bowl to dry but Im still getting dust specks (tiny fibers) drying on the finish (maybe the dust is in the liquid or it gets on when I move the part to the bowl). Any tips on what to polish the dust speck off with? Im not sure what type of abrasive is fine enough to sand a speck off without clouding the finish of Future.

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:40 pm

My thoughts.....

I don't think you can polish it out... but I would try rubbing it down with a soft cloth after it has dried for close to a week.

If that doesn't work, you will have to strip it and start again.

kenno3 · Post by **kenno3** » Thu May 03, 2012 12:05 am

Hi everyone. I love the wet look of Future - it makes my clear parts (epoxy resin) look even clearer. However im still having problems with it not covering all areas evenly.

Main question:
1) So how does Krylon Acrylic "Crystal Clear" compare to Future, in regards to the wet look?

*Update: I bought the Kylon "Acrylic Crystal Clear" which seems to be the same as the link below. The wet look is the same as Future except that it doesnt self level as much so it dries unsmooth (tiny variations of surface). So I dont like it for the looks and feel, but only like that it's more permanent?

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Acrylic-Cr ... B001K65K26

Background info:
I like Future but im still having problems with drip marks and surface tension which causes some surfaces to not be coated with Future. I can repair the surfaces but it's taking up time (im making many parts). I dont have an airbrush so ive been dipping the part in a bowl of Future. Then shaking off excess, then putting it under a bowl to dry, but I have the problems stated above.

I want a better method, so then I thought of using a Mist spray bottle with Future inside, since I dont have an airbrush (has a Mist bottle worked with Future for anyone?).
Then I remembered the Kylon spray, and thought it would be easier to use something already in Aerosol form.

However, my part is small and has many indentations and different angles, which may make it hard for a spray to reach all surfaces evenly. The dip method coats all my complex surfaces easier without texturizing the surface.

2) From your experience, do you think I should even try a spray for a small complex part? Or do you think im better off using the dip method in liquid?

*Update: Spraying doesnt work for what I want since I need the surface precisely smooth like glass.
New question
2) Anyone know of a liquid acrylic coating I can buy to dip in, which self levels like Future but is more permanent? Lacquer on resin?

PS I also read about putting a drop of dish soap or alcohol in Future to thin it (makes is spread easier?). But I dont want to dilute the whole bottle of Future I have, and I pour most of it into the bowl (when dipping), then pour it back in the bottle to reuse later. So it's my "pure" mixture and I dont really want to buy a new bottle.

3) The parts will be handled a lot so I want a permanent "wet look" coat.
Krylon says the Crystal Clear is permanent. But how permanent is Future on cured resin (when handled with fingers, and it will remain indoors) ?

Thank you

CarlGo · Post by **CarlGo** » Sat Dec 20, 2014 7:43 pm

Butters wrote:
talon wrote:Okay, my question didn't get answered, but it was like last or next to last on the previous page.

What is the best way to clean Future from the airbrush? Windex? Lacquer thinner?
I use Windex with no problems.

Can you also use windex to take future off a clear coated (styrene) model as well? The paint job (testors enamel) is fine but I just want to redo the decals.

zaphod · Post by **zaphod** » Sun May 22, 2022 5:43 pm

Here is the current name of Future as of 2022:

https://www.pledge.com/en-us/products/p ... loor-gloss

zaphod · Post by **zaphod** » Sun May 22, 2022 5:51 pm

I have also had great luck Windsor & Newton Galeria gloss varnish. I have shot it through and airbrush, dunked canopies in it, and it stands up well to my oil paint pin washes.
Remember if doing an oil wash over future, et al., don't use Turpenoid, it's too reactive. Use Gamsol or artists' white spirit.

Here's the Galeria:

https://www.dickblick.com/items/winsor- ... ml-bottle/

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Future floor polish

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