Burnishing Chrome foil

[jpolacchi]

Has anyone in here ever tried to use the chrome foil sheets to burnish entire kits/kit parts instead of painting? I'm kind of considering burnishing the R2/AMT Razor Crest kit, but I have never used chrome foil before and have never seen or heard of anyone doing it to entire kits, but I know that's how the film miniature was finished, although it is of a larger scale. And if painting/weathering over chrome foil, can solvent based paints be used or will they attack the chrome foil surface and cause issues? Is there any additional surface prep required for burnishing Chrome foil? Are there any adhesion issues with painting on chrome foil surfaces?

[irishtrek]

You should try it on some scrap plastic before trying it on the Razor Crest model.

[southwestforests]

I have never used chrome foil before and have never seen or heard of anyone doing it to entire kits,

Is actually almost common in the aircraft modeling genre.

Here's a sample, https://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_s ... 77401.aspx

FINISHED!!! Revell 1/48 B-29 in Bare Metal Foil
Posted by JohnnyK on Saturday, December 16, 2017 4:45 PM
This project took 9 months and 8 sheets of Bare Metal Foil to complete.
This is a large model with a 36" wingspan and weighs-in at over one pound. It is an older kit originally made by Monogram and it is loaded with engineering issues that make it a challange to build. You can follow those in my WIP. It is the fifth model that I have finished using BMF. The cylindrical shape of the fuselage really highlights the grain and metal finish of the BMF. I used two colors of BMF, Matt Aluminum and Improved Chrome to add visual variety to the final finish. Following are photos of the finished model.

And another sample, https://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/ ... ka/00.shtm

1/48 Academy F-86F Sabre
In Bare Metal Foil
Gallery Article by Scott Vomacka on Mar 1 2013
This is my 1/48 Academy F-86F finished with self adhesive Bare Metal Foil. The model went to together with little trouble. I had to shim the fuselage halves a little so I could get a tighter fit in the wing root. I added a resin seat to the cockpit, P/E RBF tags for the intakes and Superscale decals. The decals gave me the most headaches. They just would not cooperate. They would wrinkle and stay (tightly) wrinkled with hot water, Micro-set and Micro-sol. I finally got them to lay down after much work. The red nose stripe decal could not be saved, so I had to paint it.
I finished the model in self adhesive Bare Metal Foil. This took some time to apply (One panel at a time) but the results were worth the effort.

[southwestforests]

And from the automobile modeling genre,

Jul 17, 2020
I will be showing you how to add chrome trim to your model car using aluminum foil instead of bare metal foil.

https://youtu.be/NgIlG8qJBdg

See also:

Oct 24, 2016
Today I want to show off my .99 cent foil tape that I scored off feeBay; it works great for small projects where you want the look of real metal, without spending an "arm and a leg" for the actual Bare-Metal's brand of foil, which is commonly used in the modeling world (& is highly regarded as the ONLY option usually). Be that as it may, I refuse to pay $9 for two small sheets of it. So, if you're frugal, like me, give this method a try using low cost foil tape!

https://youtu.be/ec9TnQzywRo

[southwestforests]

And we finish with another model by the first reference's JohnnyK,
https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/ind ... -airplane/

Tips to apply aluminum foil and rivets to an airplane
Posted March 19, 2019
A number of modelers have asked me to share how I finish my models in foil and how I add rivets. Following are photos of a few airplanes that I have finished in Bare Metal Foil.
TOOLS:
To apply the foil you will need a magnifying device, hobby knife with replacement blades, metal ruler for measuring and cutting the foil from the backer sheet, good tweezers, paper stumps for buffing the foil, post-it-notes for making measurements around curved surfaces, and 0000 steel wool for adding grain to the foil.
The tools for making rivets are a magnifying device, post-it-notes for spacing the rivets, a rivet tool and a flexible straight as a guide for the rivet tool. I use a RB Productions rivet tool. It includes four toothed wheels with different tooth spacings.
CLEANLINESS:
All work surfaces and tools must be kept super clean. Even small bits if dust, fuzz and hair will be amplified in appearance if trapped under the foil. The only way to fix the foil in the photo above is the remove the foil, clean the model and start over.

[Kylwell]

Be sure to check out Hasegawa's line of metallic films & colors.

[DaveVan]

I tried to foil a BTTF Delorean And at first it looked good. But after a year it developed small air bubbles in the foil. Not sure what I did.....but on a surface like that of the Razor.....I'd read up on application!

[Saturn]

I don't like Bare Metal Foil for large applications. It's fine if you're doing say, a N1 starfighter, or chrome trim on a car model. But once you wrap an entire model with foil- it looks like a model wrapped in foil.

I wish Alclad II wasn't so damn noxious. (Lacquer) but that's what I'm planning with my RC (AMT)

[Lt. Z0mBe]

The stuff works great for small applications, like chrome trim pieces or aircraft light reflectors. When used in large applications it looks, like, well pieces of foil burnished down on a model. I considered using it for a project long ago, I remember seeing the builds in FSM and being thoroughly unimpressed. I think, too, about how it looks over raised details like antenna blisters, hinges and the like. Imagine spraying five coats of primer on a model and then applying metallizing lacquer and you’ll get an idea.

As far as solvent resistance goes, there are no problems there unless you’re talking about the backing material which can lose its inherent tackiness. I’ve only used it in very small applications, and it was fine.

Let’s not forget trying to get the stuff around irregular contours and shapes. You end up with seams where you have to cut and trim pieces. I don’t care what anyone says, the seams positively do not “disappear” when the foil is burnished down at overlaps. They’re plainly visible on the builds where I have seen it. I’ve seen it in person on the contest table and in online and FSM pictures. The seams looks like fine, long black hairs or thread.

Something else to consider it scratching it during your build. I don’t think it can be airbrushed and buffed out like a metallizer can (possibly) be. But I coukd be wrong about that.

I hope this helps a bit.

Kenny

[jpolacchi]

WOW! That's allot of information! Many thanks. I had only ever seen bare metal foil uses on small parts applications, never over the entirety of the model like that Monogram kit. Looks like allot of work, but the finished result looks impressive. I'd have to look at the kit t see where the breaks are and where would be the best place to lay down a sheet, and then hide the seam (if possible). I'm a bit of a novice with bare metal foil applications. I had some time ago watched a youtube demo of someone doing the same thing, but used aluminum foil instead. Same technique I think, but with a could added techniques. I was concerned the bare metal foil might be hard to get on textured/raised surface details, but from what I could see that didn't appear to be an issue. I would certainly practice on something else to get the hang of using it and I have some parts kits to maybe try out on round/irregular surfaces. I think bare metal foil might be "too thin" to consider buffing it. The aluminum foil technique I mentioned above, I believe it was a thick enough gage that it could be? You had to use the heavy duty foil. I'll certainly consider this technique. I think if done right the end result would be quite impressive.

[southwestforests]

I was concerned the bare metal foil might be hard to get on textured/raised surface details, but from what I could see that didn't appear to be an issue.

it is a matter of degree; what degree of detail and how fine of detail and how many compound shapes and corners.

For me in my experience, the less texture the surface has, the better.

But, hey, give it a go and see how ya do!

[seam-filler]

For me in my experience, the less texture the surface has, the better.

Agreed. Many years ago, I did a Ford tri-motor in BareMetal foil . If it hadn't been a commission it would have flown out of the window long before completion!

[southwestforests]

Many years ago, I did a Ford tri-motor in BareMetal foil

Speaking of that ... a 1990s, I think, repop of Monogram's old 1/77 scale "box scale" one with the dog sled and parka guys (but no pilots and not even a bench seat in the cockpit) was dug out of the closet a couple weeks back and is very slowly in progress.
No foil.
Yet the pondering did occur.
Immediately followed by "Just Say No".
Old school paint is what it is getting.

[Kekker]

Funny thing is, the filming model was covered in bare metal and aluminum foil! Adam Savage did an ep from his youtube series where he looked at the model.

They covered it with the foil, found it was a little too shiny for the filming work, and then dulled it down just a little. So even the pros use it!

As for seams, the best way to work with foil is to do it by sections, so the seams fall naturally on the models panel lines. It's a good idea to fill the panel lines and leave them visible so you can see where each panel is. Then burnish down the foil on the panel, then cut along the edge of the panel. Since the foil is so thin, you can see the edge on the next panel you're putting down, and carefully cut along that. By changing the direction of each section, you can get that subtle variation in the metal grain so it doesn't look monolithic.

Just keep a close eye on dust, pet hair, etc. If when you put your foil down you find something is under it, remove the foil, wipe the area with alcohol, and apply a new piece. You're not getting that cat hair off the first piece!

I did this with a 1/72 Fujimi Cutlass and it still looks good almost 30 years later.

[WraithVerge]

I use foil adhesive tape, none of the polymer stuff. When I burnish, I use toothpics, an xacto ball-ended burnisher and steel wool to get it where it needs to go. and have gotten it around tight corners and into tight details as well.

[jpolacchi]

You're talking abut the "aluminum tape" right? I would have thought it was too thick a gage to use.

[starseeker]

I gave up on Bare Metal Foil a long time ago. It's not what it was a decade or so ago. These days, it's thin and usually old in the hobby shop and won't adhere well and if its wrinkled the largest piece you can cut has to be smaller than the slightest wrinkle, where it will tear. It's very difficult to get the hang of using, and extremely difficult to use around compound curves, which usually get painted as a last resort. A few people seem to have mastered the technique, but if have, they're promoted to master modellers automatically. Also, if you're doing a whole model, it looks like a model that's been covered in foil. It just doesn't look to scale without skillful weathering.

If I have to use BMF, it will be on something small and so awkward that a Molotow pen can't be used. Otherwise, while still difficult and expensive, it's far, far easier to use something like Alclad II. Which is why BMF seems to have become something akin to a stone tool and why the stuff hangs shrinking and petrifying in model shops. The model's surface prep is the same: all imperfections and seams filled with CA only and polished glass-like, but otherwise it's just a matter of careful, clean airbrushing.

[sbaxter]

Another question I would have is what happens if you really screw up the application or decide you're not pleased with the effect -- how difficult would it be to remove the foil once it is all applied and burnished in place?

Qapla'

SSB

[Rocketeer]

To remove it, stick a piece of masking tape on top of it and peel it off.

[Kekker]

And you should probably wipe it with alcohol to take off any remaining adhesive. Get it back to a smooth pristine surface.