Resin model construction

[starmanmm]

I've heard to use it full strength. But depending on the resin (if it is soft) I would maybe cut it a little with water.

[jedge3]

I've heard to use it full strength. But depending on the resin (if it is soft) I would maybe cut it a little with water.

Thank you.

[lsufantc]

My biggest problem has been getting the glue to go on smoothly and evenly. I seem to get it everywhere but where I need it lol. Any tips?

[Kylwell]

How are you applying it?

[lsufantc]

The nozzle from the bottle it's pretty small.

[Kylwell]

I usually pour out a small amount of CA and then use a pin or needle to apply small amounts. Much more control than trying to use the nozzle. On large mating surfaces I'll glop it on with the nozzle and then spread with a piece of scrap plastic.

[lsufantc]

Good advice never thought of using a needle.

[jpolacchi]

I was told to "wash" the resin parts in a tub with dish soap(which I have always done) but "add" to that...dashing the parts with Ajax or Comet and scrubbing it with an old tooth brush to remove mold release and it sort of like "sanding" the kit so you get a better bond not only with epoxy or super glues,but with primers and painting.It won't ruin the parts or remove any fine detail.I also prefer "stronger:" bonds and when it comes to resin kits,nothing holds better than with a decent 5 min epoxy.I only use superglue to fill in small bubbles or seams or to may "stick on small parts" that aren't load bearing or don't need allot of holding strength,otherwise go with the epoxy.

[seam-filler]

I usually pour out a small amount of CA and then use a pin or needle to apply small amounts. Much more control than trying to use the nozzle. On large mating surfaces I'll glop it on with the nozzle and then spread with a piece of scrap plastic.

If you need a drop more CA than the point of a needle will give, cut across the eye of a needle with wire cutters. This gives you a two-tine fork which will hold a bit more glue whilst still being precise. Watch out when you cut - that part will fly directly at your eyes!

[Tesral]

I'm going to second epoxy for big stuff. I only use CA on the little guys.

And I like the needle Idea. And yes it will fly right at your eyes. I also suggest sticking the other end in a dowel rod for better control and so you don't loose it. Pre drill a bit and glue it in.

I have a glass tube and wire gizmo that does the same thing. I also have a bunch of insulin needles I don't used anymore but I keep for fine glue applications 30 micro needles.

[Rocketeer]

... I also heard packing voids/airbubbles with baking soda then applying superglue to it works really well...

I wouldn't do this too much. Years ago, I built a custom 1940 Ford and used CA-plus-baking soda for all the bodywork. Now, years later, the model's paint has oily-looking stains in all the CA-filled areas.

[jpolacchi]

I don't personally like to use too much super glue or putty fillers.I used to use nothing buy superglue to fill in everything combined with the accellerator you spray on after.Kind of stinky and messy.The accellerator spray everywhere sand I'm not sure it is a great thing to be breathing.You can add drops via a tooth pick or paperclip I suppose?I have used an epoxy based body filler,it shrinks less and sanded as easily as any other polyestser filler.

[Kylwell]

I don't personally like to use too much super glue or putty fillers.I used to use nothing buy superglue to fill in everything combined with the accellerator you spray on after.Kind of stinky and messy.The accellerator spray everywhere sand I'm not sure it is a great thing to be breathing.You can add drops via a tooth pick or paperclip I suppose?I have used an epoxy based body filler,it shrinks less and sanded as easily as any other polyestser filler.

CA accelerators are stinky, messy, and can attack plastic. I usually apply them with a pin or other precise applicator.

[seam-filler]

Because CA is activated by moisture, there's enough in your breath to be a reasonable accelerator. Not as messy and not as stinky (halitosis notwithstanding).

[Madman Lighting]

So I'm doing my second resin kit and its got metal in it too, fine wires I'll need to bend to shape. Its Howling Wolf's Narn G'Quan Battle Cruiser and its been in box for 10+ years awaiting my attention. I'm really keen to do a first rate job on this one.

So I read the entire thread and here's what I'm planning to do:

Soak the entire kit in hot soapy water (Dawn dish detergent) and scrub vigorously with scrubber and toothbrush to remove mold release oils.

Dry fit everything before drilling and gluing.

Drill and screw together larger parts with epoxy as the setting goop for the joint. Pin and epoxy smaller joints.

Stage the assembly as needed so I can paint everything. Large sections will be unreachable or very hard to reach with airbrush once assembled.

Paint prep with some high quality primer, like automotive or Mr. Resin Primer if I can still get it.

Above all: Take My Time!

I'm interested in the suggestions people had about "roughing" the surface slightly before priming. I considered the idea of gently scrubbing the entire thing with kitchen cleanser or using a stronger cleanser like Simple Green to ensure a truly clean surface, but I'm not sure. I get one shot at this so its think about it a few times before taking action.

Thanks!
-John C.

(No! I will not be lighting it up.)

[seam-filler]

Check the surface for pin-holes - hopefully you won't find many. Unless they are really large, I fill mine with CA and a sprinkle of bicarbonate of soda. They can be sanded within minutes. Doubtless you will find more pinholes after priming - just treat them the same. Big holes get Apoxie.

Personally, I don't rough the surface before priming, although I know some that do. I do, however, wash the whole thing with a de-greaser (I'm in the UK so mentioning brands won't mean squat) - rinse well with de-ionised or distilled water and left to air-dry.

Automotive primers are usually just hot enough to etch the surface to be permanent. I let the primer coat cure for at least two days before doing anything.

IIRC, the Narn Cruiser is largely red and black-brown. An undercoat of yellow makes the red more vivid (a tip I got from someone who customizes cars).

Best of luck and enjoy!

[Madman Lighting]

Thanks for the tip!

I see very few pin holes, most surfaces are in fact so smooth they look shiny, even after an over night wash in soapy water.

I'm planning on buying some 2-56 machine threaded brass rod to use as screw material. Its easy to cut, epoxy will stick to it very well, and if I insert it deep enough into resin parts, it will form a partial metal structure.

Howling Wolf used good quality gray polyester resin (I think) so the surfaces that were outside the molds are actually very smooth, and pin-hole free.

A few people (including the creator) actually warned me that this kit "needs work" so I'm ready for some serious putty filling and actual engineering if need be. Anyone else got a comment on how to "fix" the Narn Cruiser?

[EVApodman]

As you go along with this model you will discover the things that need fixing and then have to adapt to them.

[jpolacchi]

I won't use anything less than epoxy to assembled a resin kit.However,once it is on there,good luck prying parts apart or getting it off.Its on for good unless you want to butcher the kit.I think "pinning" is an extra step that in assembly of resin kits is also good for keeping some assemblies not only "together" but "square".

[publiusr]

Resin help?
https://hackaday.com/2024/04/16/fail-of ... rom-resin/