Future floor polish

Jowex · Post by **Jowex** » Sat Mar 27, 2004 12:17 pm

I'm finaly using "Future floor polish"! Thanks to FSM I know now that is called "Parket plus" in the Netherlands.

But i'm having trouble getting it onto my models. It doesn't form a bright shiny coat, or if it does its start to run down the sides in big drops.

I use a Badger 250 airbrush and a compressor.
Usually I use Tamiya paints, with an airpresure of 30 PSI.

woozle · Post by **woozle** » Sat Mar 27, 2004 3:40 pm

I mix future about 50% future, 30% water, and 20% alcahol. The alcahol helps it set faster, while the thinning makes, well... less thick

i also like doing several single-passes with my airbrush to avoid thick coats.

firemann816 · Post by **firemann816** » Sat Mar 27, 2004 5:54 pm

I use a brush and apply it out of the bottle
havent lost any surface detail yet, but wouldnt blame anybody who uses an Airbrush, who says I'm crazy.
Theyre right 8)

Sci Fi Smoker · Post by **Sci Fi Smoker** » Sat Mar 27, 2004 7:14 pm

Jowex, 30 psi is too much for this type of application. It should be so low that the Future sprays out as a fine mist. Try using a hairdryer on a low/cold setting to speed up drying time. I airbrush Future undiluted, works fine.

big-dog · Post by **big-dog** » Sat Mar 27, 2004 8:04 pm

I just used it straight from the bottle through a Badger 350, Silentaire Scorpion compressor, had no problems at all. Went on to form a great gloss coat, then finally with flat base for a nice satin finish. The adger 250 is designed to spray huge amounts of paint, very high volume and thick stuff. It's a mini spraygun. I'd say that along with the high pressure is causing the problem.

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Mar 28, 2004 6:48 pm

Don't try to get a uniform glossy coat in one coat. You'll probably get better results with a fine coat first, and a couple more coats to get a good, hard glosscoat.

It can be removed with an ammonia-containing cleaner, if all else fails. Of course, this could easily remove your paint...

Where are you in The Netherlands? I've been to Narrden/Bussum and the surrounding areas. Very pretty. Only one day in Amsterdam, though, unfortunately.

woozle · Post by **woozle** » Sun Mar 28, 2004 8:45 pm

Heh, I'm getting into the habit of using a basecoat of Future, so I can just amonia-wash it all away if I don't like the finish, a few coats later.

Jowex · Post by **Jowex** » Tue Mar 30, 2004 1:12 pm

Thanks everybody for the advice. I'm sure that I can work out a way to get better results.

themage · Post by **themage** » Mon Apr 19, 2004 12:24 am

i got some off brand future and i think i should of gotten the real thing

i airbrushed it and got what looks like orange peel or dust but too small to be orange peel and too much to be dust

i sprayed it just from the bottle on top of enamel paint that was dry

its this a defect in the off brand

even when i brushed it on it did the same thing too

big-dog · Post by **big-dog** » Mon Apr 19, 2004 8:29 am

A lot of brands have a cleaner in them, these all in one type deals. Clean and finish in one go. Future has a separate cleaner, so the floor finish is just water based liquid acrylic. I've always heard to use the real thing.

themage · Post by **themage** » Sun May 02, 2004 10:26 pm

well i got the real deal now , now there is no bubbles or anything but its not nice and smooth

lt's like grainy , gave it about 2 coats at 25psi i think

Post by **TER-OR** » Mon May 03, 2004 7:41 am

you might want to back the pressure down a bit.

BLZ BOB · Post by **BLZ BOB** » Thu May 06, 2004 1:36 am

After getting clued up on the local brand name, Klear by all accounts in the UK I made a trip to the local store at lunchtime ostensibly to buy sarnies. My other half was intrigued that I had bought 'cleaning' products ie the klear and some windowlene to remove it, perhaps she thought I would perform some cleaning at home. Sadly she was mistaken and was instead made to suffer the entire evening with my comments such as:
"My god, this is great stuff"
"This is the best thing ever"
"Why didnt I know about this years ago"

I am now a true addict to the future method of sealing it gave superior results to my traditional varnish even when brushed on, I dared not fire up the airbrush as the excitement may have been too much for me to handle. I was also impressed by the fact it works out about 50 times cheaper than my regular varnish 8) I will be spending more of the weekend investigating its other properties such as scratch repair on canopies

I am just glad my other half is understanding and realises that the floor polish will never actually get used on the laminate floors

The windowlene will get a legit use even if it is only cleaning down my display cabinets

Andrew Gorman · Post by **Andrew Gorman** » Wed May 19, 2004 2:57 pm

I still haven't got the hang of this stuff! I seem to get orange peel, runs, or worse yet BOTH! I don't have a pressure gauge on my airbrush compressor (yet), so I have been trying to use low air pressure and full product flow. This gives a smooth wet coat, but when it dries it still seems a little spotty-glossier in some areas than others, occasional runs and occasional orange peel. I know I really just need to practice more-I'm on model #2 right now (woo hoo!) But am I doing anything obviously wrong? I've tried it straight, I've cut it 20% or so with alcohol, but coverage just seems thin. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Andrew

macfrank · Post by **macfrank** » Wed May 19, 2004 3:00 pm

Andrew Gorman wrote:But am I doing anything obviously wrong? I've tried it straight, I've cut it 20% or so with alcohol, but coverage just seems thin. Any suggestions?

Obvious - you're putting on a wet coat of Future. Try misting it on, letting each layer dry a bit before applying the next. Build up the coat.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Wed May 19, 2004 3:01 pm

Andrew,
Sounds like your issue is too much pressure. You can also try thining it a bit with some acrylic thinner (dinna recomend water). Lots of pressure will give you matte finishes in spots.

woozle · Post by **woozle** » Wed May 19, 2004 3:05 pm

I cut Future with about 10% water and 10% alcohol, then do a couple thin coats, then let it sit over night. My airbrush doesn't have a regulator or gauge, but I haven't had any problems.

WedgeCharlotte · Post by **WedgeCharlotte** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:18 pm

I shoot it straight at no greater than 12psi - usually below 10.

At higher pressures it can dry before it hits the model, giving you that lovely mottled look.

big-dog · Post by **big-dog** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 9:26 pm

I know a lot of people will disagree with me, but one of the best things I ever bought was my Badger 350, single action-external mix airbrush. It is so easy to use, and for anything other than weathering I've not needed the double action. The fine tips are great for, well, fine painting, and you can go up from there. Unless you want to stagger the line, that is go thin, then wider, then thin again in one smooth stroke I like the single action. I wouldn't say you don't need a double action, but for priming, base coats, and clear coats, the single's pretty hard to beat.

Morty Seinfeld · Post by **Morty Seinfeld** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 1:12 pm

I hate to sound like a newbie (to these boards anyways), but what is Future and why is it a good and/or widely used product? What's it do? How should one use it? Where can one find it?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 1:32 pm

Future Floor Polish. it's an acrylic based floor cover that works great for gloss coating models.

Morty Seinfeld · Post by **Morty Seinfeld** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 3:03 pm

kylwell wrote:Future Floor Polish. it's an acrylic based floor cover that works great for gloss coating models.

I forget, what's the rule on acrylics mixing with enamels (dried, not liquid) and vice versa? I've really only ever used enamels for all these years.

Post by **TER-OR** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 3:29 pm

If you use an enamel color paint, and want to use an acrylic atop it, you need to wait several days. The enamel will continue to outgas, and the fast-curing acrylic shell won't allow that. You will get orange-peel or crackled finish.

Lacquer glosscoats don't seem to have this problem - but they will continue to outgas for a while, too.

When you apply Future, you're better off applying a number of light coats than trying one heavy coat.

Don't try to use a lacquer coat over acrylic, you run a good chance of damaging it.

MGMorden · Post by **MGMorden** » Sat Jun 12, 2004 7:46 pm

I recently started using Future myself. I tend to use craft paints on my models, and that stuff tends to rub off when handling the model. After each stage now I apply a very quick, light coat of Future (unthinned, at around 25psi) and let it dry. That makes the paint much more resistant to rubbing off.

Of course I really need to get away from the craft paint, but I can build a lot more for the money, and I tend to be wasteful w/ paint

.

The local train store does stock Polyscale and Floquil though, so maybe I'll try some of that . . .

Confusion · Post by **Confusion** » Mon Jun 14, 2004 2:13 pm

Uhmm.. I'll just continue here, but I seem to remember there being a list of alternates to the Future brand. Does anyone happen to have that handy, or am I imagining it?

12Rogues · Post by **12Rogues** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 10:56 pm

well i got the real deal now , now there is no bubbles or anything but its not nice and smooth

lt's like grainy , gave it about 2 coats at 25psi i think

I had the same problem.

Bad Future

I asked an expert who suggested I try lowering the pressure below 15psi, and use a heavy flow rate, and most important, spray closer to the work. He explained that the some of Future spray was drying before it hit the surface of the model.

I sanded the rough surface that I got from my first attempt using some very very fine sandpaper using almost no pressure, then followed that up with even finer (about 3200 grit) emery cloth I got in a clear parts polishing kit from Micro Mark. I got all the sand dust off, then applied the future again, and it worked very well. No scratches from the sanding, and very smooth.

Better Future

I hope this helped

Brian

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Jun 20, 2004 2:50 pm

I've found recently that dropping the pressure will let me spray Future straight from the bottle. I don't need to thin it anymore. Thanks to whomever clued me in on that - I don't remember whose advice that was.

Kenn13579 · Post by **Kenn13579** » Tue Aug 03, 2004 9:41 pm

OK, this sounds like the board where I can get advice ...

I am almost finished with my Speeder Babe (see On The Bench) and am about to start weathering the figure and bike. Got the Future and ready to apply. I do not have the skill or the space for an airbrush, so will use a hand brush. So how hard is it? Glob it on or thin coats? Will it level out on its own, or do you have to let it dry at a certain angle?

Also, after the gloss to seal the base coats and the weathering, will a satin or flat clear coat applied by brush really smooth out the paint job and remove the gloss? Like if I used flat for the black trooper bodysuit and satin for the white armor.

Thanks for any help!

Kenn

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Wed Aug 04, 2004 2:50 am

It will brush on fine, but watch out for bubbles. They are about the only thing I've seen that will keep it from leveling smoothly. That and cat hair. I don't know about hand brushing matte coats on afterwards, I've never tried it. There are matte and satin clear coats in a spray can. If the brush method doesn't work, maybe you could try these?

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Wed Aug 04, 2004 9:14 am

I thin my Future with, I guess, about 10 percent Windex. It works for me like a charm, even at high pressure. Light misting coats are what I use; on the rare occasion I flub up and get a run, I use the corner of a paper towel and touch it to the drop. Capillary action soaks it right up, since it's thinned with the Windex.

I hope this helps.

Z0mBe

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