Advanced. Decals

Post by **TER-OR** » Fri Apr 23, 2004 12:48 pm

Please use this thread to discuss the finer points of decals.

Andrew Gorman · Post by **Andrew Gorman** » Fri Apr 30, 2004 1:17 pm

I just used Micro Sol for the first time ever. It is grand and glorious stuff! I had a couple of difficult areas to decal-one shallow dome (actually a PVC pipe cap) and one ridged cylinder. My first test with a Micro Scale decal snuggled down fine with one application, but the real things (a Blue Rider decal and some from a Glencoe kit) took repeated applications. BUT the decals did slowly sag into shape, and even the wrinkles disappeared. This is one of those hobby shop potions that really works!
Andrew

Quantum · Post by **Quantum** » Thu Jun 10, 2004 3:05 pm

As a precaution, I always give my decals a coat of Microscale Liquid Decal Film. I started out doing it to older decals in case they had become too fragile, but now they all get a bath.

lonewriter_tx · Post by **lonewriter_tx** » Thu Jun 10, 2004 3:46 pm

Where can you buy Micro Sol?

Andrew Gorman · Post by **Andrew Gorman** » Thu Jun 10, 2004 4:35 pm

lonewriter_tx wrote:Where can you buy Micro Sol?

JUst about any hobby shop or model train store should have it. I've heard that a home-made brew of 30% acetic acid and water will work just as well, but I haven't tried it. I just used some of the store-bought with some success to lift and move a crusty old decal that had been in place for 30+ years. I like it.
Andrew

Post by **TER-OR** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 7:21 am

If you need to remove decals before they've been overcoated you just need a hot damp cloth. It's the same principle as removing wallpaper.

If it's been overcoated with acrylic, alcohol or ammonia-containing window cleaner will remove the acrylic coat. Then the hot wet towel can be used.

Marcelo Conforto · Post by **Marcelo Conforto** » Thu Jun 17, 2004 11:44 am

Does any of the greatest modelers on earth know how I can get those brown moisture fungus out from an old decal sheet?

Post by **TER-OR** » Thu Jun 17, 2004 12:43 pm

You've got mildew on a decal sheet?!? I guess it's eating the glue.

I'm at a loss. You could put it in the sunlight to dry it and maybe bleach it with UV light. Yikes. Maybe use some bleach in the water you use to soak the decals off the sheets?

Find a replacement sheet?

Marcelo Conforto · Post by **Marcelo Conforto** » Fri Jun 18, 2004 3:45 pm

Hi Ter
The problem is that the kit is too old. The fungus is even attacking some of the decals themselves.

My first option was to get a replacement decal sheet, but the kit is long out of production. I think my chances are dim. It's a Tamiya Lotus 107 Formula 1 car....

12Rogues · Post by **12Rogues** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 6:14 pm

Ok, Heres a problem for the decal experts here, and I hope you can help.

I applied decals over Future, and set them with some decal set solution. I noticed one of the decals was crooked after they had all dried and fully set.

Q:Is there a way to remove the set decal without ruining the Future coat underneath? Tape maybe?

Thanks,
Brian

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Jun 20, 2004 2:45 pm

It's easier than that.

Use a clean dishcloth, with hot water. Place it over the decal for a while, then you should be able to lift the decal off the model with a blade and tweezers.

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Jun 20, 2004 2:48 pm

Hey, Marcelo.

It doesn't sound good for the decals does it? You might post on some of the sites asking for replacements.

Or, if you can clean the decals with some anti-fungal or bleach you can reproduce them. If you have access to a professional copy shop, they can laser copy onto decal film. Then you'll have to overcoat the decals with liquid decal film from Microscale.

Or, maybe someone can scan the damaged sheet and clean up the graphics on a computer. Then the decals can be printed onto fresh film.

Andrew Gorman · Post by **Andrew Gorman** » Sun Jun 20, 2004 4:36 pm

RE: Mildew
I just used some decals that were stored face-up in a dark corner of my Mom's garage for 10 years or more, and were encrusted with dirt and dust- looked like a black carrier! I just cut the decals out and cleaned up the face with a damp Q-tip/cotton bud. This took off the dirt without getting the decal wet enough to loosen. Once it was clean I just dunked it and applied as usual. No visible ill-effects yet.
Andrew

Quantum · Post by **Quantum** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 12:27 pm

TER-OR wrote:Hey, Marcelo.

It doesn't sound good for the decals does it? You might post on some of the sites asking for replacements.

Or, if you can clean the decals with some anti-fungal or bleach you can reproduce them. If you have access to a professional copy shop, they can laser copy onto decal film. Then you'll have to overcoat the decals with liquid decal film from Microscale.

Or, maybe someone can scan the damaged sheet and clean up the graphics on a computer. Then the decals can be printed onto fresh film.

Find someone with a high resolution scanner, and then hit Kinko's.

neptunesurvey · Post by **neptunesurvey** » Sat Jul 10, 2004 11:00 pm

Where can you buy the sheets of decal paper? Are they available at Office Max or Office Depot?

Post by **TER-OR** » Mon Jul 19, 2004 8:15 am

Not that I'm aware of. Hobby shops, or online.

Online
Model Expo
Squadron

Proabably Cutting Edge, too.

TB2 · Post by **TB2** » Fri Jul 30, 2004 11:49 am

TER-OR wrote:Use a clean dishcloth, with hot water. Place it over the decal for a while, then you should be able to lift the decal off the model with a blade and tweezers.

Wouldn't that cause the Future to whiten? Or would it cure clear again?

TB2 · Post by **TB2** » Fri Jul 30, 2004 11:54 am

I just decaled a rock recently, never done that before. It's actually a piece of rail road ballast which I've attached a brass plaque to for my BTTF III diorama.

Post by **TER-OR** » Fri Jul 30, 2004 10:38 pm

TB2 wrote:
TER-OR wrote:Use a clean dishcloth, with hot water. Place it over the decal for a while, then you should be able to lift the decal off the model with a blade and tweezers.
Wouldn't that cause the Future to whiten? Or would it cure clear again?

I've never had a problem.

Lo pan · Post by **Lo pan** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 9:43 am

I just had to use the "wet washcloth to remove decals over Future" method on a Buck Rogers starfighter. 15 minutes and a pipette of hot water did the trick on all four decals.

Unfortunately, I did have to clean up the surface area below the decals, since setting solution and decal glue had messed with the paint. Point: The paint/future warpage was due to setting solution, NOT the hot water/washcloth treatment.

As an aside, the experience with those decals really reminded me how the industy has taken massive strides in decal technology in the past 20 years. Those things were soooo thick.

Jason Abbadon · Post by **Jason Abbadon** » Sat Feb 26, 2005 9:13 am

Okay: heres a question: I've used Solvaset before with success but almost every time I buy this stuff (Testors brand), after a few weeks the little glass jar gets this rust-like black crud under the cap and around the mouth of the jar.

What's that all about?

What's the diffrence between Solvaset and Microsol?

I dont use an airbrush (yet!) and want a niiice glossy surface to apply some of Absolute Model's decals- will glosscoat from a rattlecan work allright?
I'm guessing it will.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sat Feb 26, 2005 10:40 am

Jason Abbadon wrote:Okay: heres a question: I've used Solvaset before with success but almost every time I buy this stuff (Testors brand), after a few weeks the little glass jar gets this rust-like black crud under the cap and around the mouth of the jar.

What's that all about?

What's the diffrence between Solvaset and Microsol?

I dont use an airbrush (yet!) and want a niiice glossy surface to apply some of Absolute Model's decals- will glosscoat from a rattlecan work allright?
I'm guessing it will.

I guessin ghte rust like crud is, in reality, rust. Solvaset is acidic and the vapors will rust things, like metal caps.

Mircoset is placed on the model before you put a decal down and helps "prep" the surface along with helping dissolve the underside of the deal film. It is largely glacial acetic acid (more commonly known as vinegar).

Microsol is placed after you've go the decal in place to further the softening of the deal film & ink. Not sure what it's made of, tho' it smells soapy.

Yes, you can get great gloss finishes from a rattlecan. It helps to warm the can up in some water to help everythign mix and come out smoother. Also helps to spray outside on a warm day with any breeze.

Eagle · Post by **Eagle** » Thu Mar 31, 2005 5:00 pm

Â
What about home-printed decals? I've got some that have begun to silver. Will MicroSol make the ink run?

Would it work?

Post by **TER-OR** » Fri Apr 01, 2005 9:18 am

If printed with a laser printer, you should be OK. If inkjet, it might be dodgy. If you have any leftovers from your printing, you should test.

Eagle · Post by **Eagle** » Fri Apr 01, 2005 9:41 am

Â
Thanks!

Any UK'ers know the best place to order online?

Eagle · Post by **Eagle** » Sun Apr 03, 2005 3:55 pm

Â
With a little care, the Micro Sol worked a treat on the homemade, inkjet decals.

As a matter of interest, I bought it from www.modelsinmotion.co.uk

I ordered it at 4pm and it was delivered the next day at 0730!

8)

TB2 · Post by **TB2** » Tue Apr 19, 2005 9:27 am

Eagle, did you coat the decals with anything before putting them in water? This thread is very timely as I printed off some decals last night on my HP psc 2170. I need to treat them as I know they will run (smeared it easily with a dry finger). Any suggestions on what to use? I have an airbrush.

Eagle · Post by **Eagle** » Tue Apr 19, 2005 11:47 am

Â
I just whacked on three light coats of acrylic varnish from a home improvement store.

Sound as a pound!

TB2 · Post by **TB2** » Tue Apr 19, 2005 7:40 pm

Eagle wrote:Â I just whacked on three light coats of acrylic varnish from a home improvement store. Sound as a pound!

Great, I'll test it on a scrap first. Thanks.

Del · Post by **Del** » Sun Apr 24, 2005 10:31 pm

Anybody know how to turn down the ink flow on an Epson printer?

I picked up an Epson C86 printer last week, because the DuraBright inks are supposed to be smudge, water, and fade resistant. Perfect for making decals, no? No.

Unlike the HP printer that I have where I can set it to Best/Photo, and then go to the color tab and set the ink flow at one notch below center, this Epson doesn't appear to have any similiar control.

Problem I'm getting with Bel decals is a crackling finish. Had the same problem on the HP until I reduced the flow, and now the HP prints perfectly. So, I'm assuming too much ink is causing my problem.

Any ideas on how to set this on the Epson?

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Advanced. Decals

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