Creating a wash for weathering,Does anyone know how?

[M.T.C.]

I need some help creating a inexpensive wash for a kit I am working on,does anyone know how?

[iSteve]

See the section of the forums on "Finishing."

[M.T.C.]

The weathering tip worked,thanks.I used the eye shadow to do it,unbelieveable.

[Digger1]

A wash is basically taking thinner that's been dirtied up by the color you wish to use.

What I do to make a wash; just take the paint cap of whichever color you want to wash with and then put a pipette full of thinner (make damn sure the thinner is compatable with the paint you're using) and mix or stir with your washing brush. The existing paint in the cap will mix with the thinner and will become very fluid or as we say "thin".

[Jason Abbadon]

As babaganoosh said: just be certain you dont overdo it lest you start taking up the paint you're weathering!

I spray Workable Fixative over the model prior to any enamel wash- that little bit of extra protection can save a model.

...of course, you can always use watercolors to wash in limited quantity (great for "undercoating" before a drybrush coat is added).

My VorCha is detailed with a bright green watercolor undercoat and then washed with black and then green enamel washes.
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/vie ... uid=657989

There is also the Oil Wash technique that Alfred Wong and others use..... that's on my short list of techniques to try out. [/url]

[richter111]

Here is the wash I use, it does NOT remove paint and makes for a realistic look


IMPORTANT: make sure that your model has a gloss cote finish before doing this. The slurry can stain un treated paint that is flat. After you get your model finished, you can spray the correct dulling agent to your model.


Take the Followin:

Dawn Dishwashing liquid (actually and dishwashing liquid)

Artists chalk (get the package with lots of earth toned colors)

Water

1. Scrape off chalk from the artist chalk into a powder. Blend colors to get the color you want for your wash.

2. Add a drop or two of the dish washing liquid to the center of the powdered chalk mound.

3. Add a small amount of water to this and stir all the parts together well. Add more water if you want a runnier mixture.

4. Detail the lines and such that you wanted to make POP out, let dry.

5. After dry, take Q tip's (cotton swabs) wet them and remove any of the dried slurry from where you don't want it.

6. Stand back and admire the heck out of your completed model!

7. Put the final cote of either dull or gloss clear on your model!

8. Open up the next model in your stash and begin again!

Hope this helps, Ive been using it myself for years now

Ric

results of my technique: http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

[M.T.C.]

Thanks to all I appreciate everybody who helped me.I used the eye shadow suggestion,but I have written down all the others for future use,I have a few others I would like to age and weather a little.I will post my results after I try them,thanks again.

[Tracy Mann]

To keep it simple, cheep, and avoid using thinners to make your wash that could craze your finish, I suggest going to water colors. I've even used the lil' kiddy water color black. But know I use professional water colors I pick up at Micheals or Redy Arts.

I have a solution of tap water with just a little dish washing soap in an old plastic milk jug I use to make my watercolor washes. The dish soap allows the water to flow smoother without beeding up on the models by reducing surface friction. You apply this wash heavily on to the area you want to generate forced depth and allow it to dry. Using an old damp wash clothe, wipe away the excess to the look you like and allow to dry.

I usually am not happy with that two demensional look, so I go a step further by adding a protective coat of flat lacquer (Dullcoat). I then dry brush with a lighter shade of the base color to bring out the highlights. This technique is very effective in what is called "Forced Depth" by using paint to give the effect that light does on compound surfaces.

I have a multitude of other techniques in "The Toolbox" I use depending on the effect I'm looking for. Artist Oils and pastels are the most pronounced, especialy for weathering.

Hope this helps,

Tracy

[Cpt Devilmon]

One way you can do it is to use inks.
I dont know if you know of this company but try useing citadel paints from games workshop.

I now only use acrilics (i know its spell wrong ), there water based which makes them a hell of a lot safer plus i think that they have a nicer finish and they dry in afew shakes of a wrags tail but then again i'm from the warhammer painting school.

Find a wash thats as close to the hull colour that your weathering, (this is were you make a test on a peice of card of the same colour,) add alot of water to the wash so that most of the colour has been washed out then add a libbril coat.
You should notice that the colour will only settel in deep grooves and under wellings, (nice for hull plating and metal finishs ,) this is were you have to experement and is some thing you realy have to be happy with (remember to do alot of test frist).
Then grab some of the hull colour and dry brush the weatherd place, remember not to much but just enough to take away the wash out line, trust me you will on the frist time.
The take some of the hull colour add some white so that its afew shades lighter than the hull and lighty dust the rest of the hull to all of the raised parts this will give a better scale when in indirect light. 8)

hope this will help some one out. well it works for me and i'm used to workin on thing far smaller than a starship.