Fixing Seams in a Painted Model

Warped Speedster · Post by **Warped Speedster** » Sat Mar 05, 2005 4:22 am

I'm not sure if this belongs in construction or finishing?

We've all seen it happen. We think our model is prepped and ready for paint. We shoot it, and it really looks good. Except for a few pesky cracks or seams that only show up after you've painted the thing.

One easy fix to that annoyance is using the same paint you just sprayed the model with, as a filler. Just drip a few drops of the paint in a little container and let it set for a while and thicken. It will become sorta like a paste which will work as a filler. (If it's thinned paint it may take a little longer for the thinners and oils to evaporate). Then brush it in with a fine tip brush and let it slightly cake up in the crack.

After drying for a few hours (or days if need be) it can be feather sanded away using 400, 800 or 1200 grit wet paper. This means putting on your close up glasses and very lightly working that tiny consentrated spot down. But it's worth it, and you don't have to repaint the spot with an airbrush again, unless you want to.

I usually use flat paints for most of my models. And I almost always do a micro sanding job on the painted surface anyway to rid the finish of "Tooth" or any tiny specks of dust. And micro sanding can also help create a weathered look as a bonus. So this "Paint Filler" method works fine in tiny cracks that appear that may have been missed during prep.

As a side note. I've only done this with enamel paints. And I now usually always spray on enough paint to allow for any sanding repairs.

en'til Zog · Post by **en'til Zog** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 1:45 am

D'oh....

thanks!

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 8:36 pm

Thanks WS! I'll probably try this soon. Gods know that I have this problem on EVERY kit I build.

Warped Speedster · Post by **Warped Speedster** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 12:44 am

I just did the paint filler method again today. This time though I slightly sanded through the base coat of paint into the bare plastic. Woops! I guess I didn't spray it on thick enough the first time. I had to go back and touch it up a couple times before it all went good.

If you happen to sand through the base coat in to the plastic a little while fixing a seam, you can very lightly brush a little color on that spot and feather it out again. Sometimes thinning the paint a little to touch up a bare spot lets it flow on smoother and makes it easier to feather out again. Less sanding.

Also at this stage of the game you may just ellect to very lightly reshoot that spot with the airbrush. What ever's easier for you.

About those annoying seams and gaps again. If you're in a well lit room you'll often see them right away as you're spraying your model. If you do, then go ahead and spray the paint on thicker at that spot to allow for filling and sanding work later.

A side note: Don't count on your thinned airbrush paint to keep its color tone the next day or the next week. Thinned paint tends to do weird things in a bottle. Sometimes it can darken, sometimes a lot. So use fresh paint from the original bottle for doing filler work and touch up painting.

BTW. The above method applies to enamel paints, which is what I mainly use. For acrylics, it may work the same way but you'll have to do your own research to find out.

Actually, painting isn't my favorite thing to do in the whole world. I've got to plan ahead for a day when I can airbrush a model. Hope there's no wind. Haul all the stuff out to the garage. Move all the cars. Hope my wife doesn't pull in while I'm right in the middle of a paint job. That's why anytime I can fix or salvage a paint job without having to do it all over again is a Godsend.

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 1:06 am

Warped Speedster wrote:A side note: Don't count on your thinned airbrush paint to keep its color tone the next day or the next week. Thinned paint tends to do weird things in a bottle. Sometimes it can darken, sometimes a lot. So use fresh paint from the original bottle for doing filler work and touch up painting.

There's the rub, of course. I never use paint right out of the bottle. I always mix it, in the airbrush color cup, with a few drops of this or that, to change the tone. A very unscientific process, and pretty much impossible to repeat.

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 12:45 pm

Here's what I do, assumiing I can duplicate the paint color again, lol.

Put a drop or fillet of white glue over said seam. Then, using a moist, but not wet, cotton swab or makeup applicator, I smooth the bead. Repeat until everything al flush and feathered. Then, reshoot paint over area - you'll only need a very light coat since the glue will dry clear.

I hope this helps.

Z0mBe