Use a lower-tack masking tape. The tape you're using has too much adhesive.
3M makes a drafting tape which is pretty good.
I prefer Tamiya tape, it's really the best I've tried.
Also, a glosscoat like Future or lacquer between masking stages can help.
Another trick you could use witht he current masking tape - it may work - is to stick it on the palm of your hand first, reducing some of the adhesive.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
oic.. i try the stick masking tape to palm techniques first..
thanks...
anyway.. is there anything todo with the surface before the paint?
like i need to do something so the paint stick there better?
sanding with very fine sandpaper helps?
Clean the parts before assembly. Clean them again before painting. Alcohol is a good final cleaning. Dust and skin oil are your enemy, espescially with acrylics. That and pet hair.
Use a plastic tub to cover your model while it cures, just turn it upside down. Allow some air to flow beneath it, but protect from dust.
Do check out Tamiya tape, though. I've never had issues with adhesive residue using it.
Good luck, and good modeling.
(sheesh, I should go to bed.)
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
The problem with most non-acrylic pain tthinners is they'll eat the plastic. As in melt it. As in cause irrepairable damage.
Alcohol on the other hand, won't damage the plastic and removes trace amounts of oil. You can try dishsoap or windex (glass cleaner), tho' I'd be careful of the glasscleaner.
I like your idea of lightly sanding the pieces before painting them. I do that too. It gives the surface a little tooth for the paint to hold on to. Also, paint a primer coat on first, and let it cure. Maybe sand it a little too, with 1000 grit or finer paper.
A bottle of 99% Isopropyl alcohol at the pharmacy or grocery will cost you about a buck. It's used to thin Tamiya and Gunze paint, thin Future, clean brushes, and clean models.
You should have a bottle on your bench.
Also, Goo-Gone is handy to have around. It will remove adhesive residue.
Cotton swabs and fairly lint-free paper towels are useful for cleaning before painting.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
kylwell wrote:Future is a clear acylic floor polish. Future is the brand name.
Crips, I used to remember what it's called in England & Australia (which may or may not help).
It's called "Klear" in the UK & (I believe Australia). It is called "Klir" in France (in ENORMOUS bottles).
To quote the makers, "Klear is a liquid, self-polishing floor finish formulated with exclusive SC Johnson acrylic polymers.
These polymers provide a film which is hard, dirt resistant and durable to give a long lasting shine.
It is ideal for white or very light floors as the acrylic polymers do not discolour with ageing and the film remains transparent."
Try the SC Johnson website http://www.scjohnson.com. From there you can hunt down your country and see what it's called where you live.
"I'd just like to say that building large smooth-skinned models should be avoided at all costs. I now see why people want to stick kit-parts all over their designs as it covers up a lot of problems." - David Sisson
