I preshaded my model with black and then added the final coat on top.
However, I noticed that the coat hid a lot of the black preshading underneath.
So should I just preshade with black again and forget another top coat, preshade with black and spray another top coat, OR use a black wash to get into all the nooks and crannies and forget another layer of preshading?
Thanks.
Coat over preshading? Preshade again?
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
- TER-OR
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10531
- Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
- Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
- Contact:
Zing!
To finishing with this thread. Plenty of painting threads here.
I find preshading doesn't really work well with acrylics. With a hot solvent paint, the overcoat will 'eat' into the lower layer. This doesn't happen with acrylic.
Here's a thread covering this:
http://starshipmodeler.net/cgi-bin/phpB ... hp?t=25689
To finishing with this thread. Plenty of painting threads here.
I find preshading doesn't really work well with acrylics. With a hot solvent paint, the overcoat will 'eat' into the lower layer. This doesn't happen with acrylic.
Here's a thread covering this:
http://starshipmodeler.net/cgi-bin/phpB ... hp?t=25689
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
-
- Posts: 4098
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 6:50 pm
- Location: Elmwood Park, IL.
Well, I don't know how anybody else pre-shades, but I use acrylics and have no issues with it.
First, paint all nooks & panel lines black or very dak version of the main color. Then, starting from the center of open areas start filling in the open areas til you have a strongly two tone model. Then, cuttin back on the paint flow and increasing the distance, start working into the shaded areas, pulling back to ghost back the black to what'er shade you want.
Or at least that's how I do it.
First, paint all nooks & panel lines black or very dak version of the main color. Then, starting from the center of open areas start filling in the open areas til you have a strongly two tone model. Then, cuttin back on the paint flow and increasing the distance, start working into the shaded areas, pulling back to ghost back the black to what'er shade you want.
Or at least that's how I do it.
Abolish Alliteration
Problem with some acrylics is that they change color after drying. I noticed this with Gunze.
It goes on flat at first. Then a day later, the preshading shows. Then two days later, it turns semi-gloss, bright, and looks wet. Five days later, it's satin, smooth, even, and looks great.
So sometimes it's really hard to tell how a painted model will look right away.
It goes on flat at first. Then a day later, the preshading shows. Then two days later, it turns semi-gloss, bright, and looks wet. Five days later, it's satin, smooth, even, and looks great.
So sometimes it's really hard to tell how a painted model will look right away.
- TER-OR
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10531
- Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
- Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
- Contact:
A lot of paints will change color as they cure. I've noticed this less with Gunze than with PolyScale and Testors. Also, less with gloss than flat.
You're right, though, it's all a matter of experience. You won't know until you try.
You're right, though, it's all a matter of experience. You won't know until you try.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati