Milliput equivalent (US)

SGluedMyFingers · Post by **SGluedMyFingers** » Fri Jul 22, 2005 11:14 pm

Can anyone recommend a good epoxy putty for sculpting/scratchbuilding?
I can't find a US online store that carries milliput and don't want to order overseas. Has anyone used Tamiya's putty?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Fri Jul 22, 2005 11:36 pm

Aves...available here.

Then there's Magic-Sculpt, available at the Complete Sculptor.

SGluedMyFingers · Post by **SGluedMyFingers** » Sat Jul 23, 2005 12:26 am

Hmmm. How thick is this stuff? Can it be rolled out? I've never used anything that didn't come in two sticks or a thin putty like squadron.

...that stuff looks great. Is it sticky?

Post by **LindaSmile** » Sat Jul 23, 2005 8:15 am

Try the AVES Apoxie Sculpt. Less expensive and a great product for that.

Linda

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Jul 24, 2005 9:42 am

It is everything other epoxy putties are. You have two parts, packaged in tubs, not sticks. Tubs are better. It is sticky when mixed. If you wait an hour after mixing, it's less sticky. It can be thinned. It can be rolled. It can be spread like putty and worked with alcohol. There's a whole thread on the stuff.

SGluedMyFingers · Post by **SGluedMyFingers** » Sun Jul 24, 2005 12:43 pm

SOLD!! I've been here and there and everywhere researching this stuff (I just can't afford experimental shopping). Of course, I can't speak with confidence until I get some of this stuff, but all I've found is raves. I'm hoping it's a little less sticky than milliput (my only real gripe besides availability).

Linda, expect an order from me around the turn of the month. I need this stuff NOW and considering that you can likely get it to me sooner than Aves directly (you take paypal), I'll go ahead and order some sculpt (and maybe some other stuff

).

But, I am a little curious about the clay as opposed to the sculpt. I'll order a sample of the clay from Aves and let ya'll know. I'm hoping it will be a little less sticky.

NOTE TO ALL: I noted that SM charges exactly what Aves charges. No mark-up. You gotta love that.

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Sun Jul 24, 2005 11:19 pm

The stickiness can be taken care of by keeping your fingers and tools wet while working it. Alcohol or Aves Super Solvent work well, but so does straight DHMO.

SGluedMyFingers · Post by **SGluedMyFingers** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 1:08 am

DHMO?

macfrank · Post by **macfrank** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 1:26 am

SGluedMyFingers wrote:DHMO?

Mr. Badwrench is suggesting that you use a pretty dangerous solvent - Di-Hydrogen Monoxide- which IMO is irresponsible. DHMO is a very dangerous solvent that should not be used by the inexperienced. If you use large quantities of it, you really should have an oxygen (or air) supply handy. You can read more about it at:DHMO.org

BTW, you can reduce the stickiness of two part epoxy putties with some talcum powder.

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 1:47 am

Come on Macfrank, it's not that bad. DHMO has gotten a bad rap. People blame it on everything from spontaneous noncombustion to the sinking of the Titanic. But as long as you don't inhale the stuff you'll be just fine. It's found in almost all cleaning chemicals, and we use cleaning chemicals every day, so what's the big deal?

Owen E Oulton · Post by **Owen E Oulton** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 3:07 am

Arrrrrgh! Scientific illiteracy abounds. The proper name of that chemical is Hydrogen Oxide, not Di-Hydrogen Monoxide!

Dr. Yo · Post by **Dr. Yo** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 10:19 am

Owen E Oulton wrote:Arrrrrgh! Scientific illiteracy abounds. The proper name of that chemical is Hydrogen Oxide, not Di-Hydrogen Monoxide!

Which admirably demonstrates your own vast and weighty
scienterrific knowledge, but neither affirms nor refutes the point at issue.

You have some helpful information to contribute, perhaps?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 11:18 am

I find it funny that the Dihydrogen Monoxide Research Division is 1: using the wrong nomenclature and 2: Sounds like a buncha crack-pots.

Then there's Snopes take on it.

Has anyone gotten the joke yet?

M3 · Post by M3 » Mon Jul 25, 2005 11:40 am

Eh, it's all water under the bridge.

Dr. Yo · Post by **Dr. Yo** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 12:09 pm

I should've caught that, I reeeeeeeealy shouldv'e...

DX-SFX · Post by **DX-SFX** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 12:50 pm

Sgluedmyfingers, just wet your fingers or the tools you're working with with water or spit.

Boxster · Post by **Boxster** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 2:44 pm

Just the question was about to ask, if it can be work on with water like milliput, I am sold! Just hope this can be used on plumbings too!

But, how do you mix equally when its in tub rather than stick?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 2:49 pm

Either use a set size measuring spoon, or by weight, or by the way I think most of us do it. By eye.

Boxster · Post by **Boxster** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 3:37 pm

Oooooooookay, thanks dude! Is it okay to use more hardener for this brand and will it harden enough to be drill and tap?

Is there a shelf-life for the tubs? Or should I fridge them like I did all me CA, Epoxies etc etc?

Thanks in advances for the input here.

Post by **LindaSmile** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 3:56 pm

Box wrote:Oooooooookay, thanks dude! Is it okay to use more hardener for this brand and will it harden enough to be drill and tap?

The products are designed for equal mixing. It hardens enough without needing to add extra.

From the product description: "Can be seamlessly feathered before set-up, or sanded, tapped, lathed or otherwise tooled after. "

Box wrote:Is there a shelf-life for the tubs? Or should I fridge them like I did all me CA, Epoxies etc etc?

The AVES rep told me that they will last for years. She said refrigeration is optional. You don't have to, but if you won't be using it for long periods of time, refrigerating it will extend the shelf life somewhat.

Linda

Boxster · Post by **Boxster** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 4:45 pm

Thanks Linda, I am completely sold now! They will be in my orders on the next run.

I presumed this putty can be used like milliput than because sometimes, I use putty to join parts. Ok, let's see what packings to bring em in!

B

DX-SFX · Post by **DX-SFX** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 6:16 pm

It's fairly tolerant of unequal mixing. If you need to speed things up, put it somewhere warm. It makes quite a good filler for large seams because you can smooth the joint and make it good BEFORE it hardens thus reducing the need for sanding and the resulting loss of detail in the surrounding areas. After it sets, you can rough carve it with a modelling knife, sand it, drill it etc etc.

Post by **LindaSmile** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 6:31 pm

How about trying the Apoxie Sampler Pack?

Linda

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Tue Jul 26, 2005 3:02 am

To help mix equal parts, roll each part into a little ball first. It is easier to tell when the balls are the same size than when they are just amorphous blobs.

Post by **TER-OR** » Tue Jul 26, 2005 7:36 am

I have noticed that my epoxy does set more quickly now than it did when fresh. It's been stored in my basement for well over a year. I may not need to buy the big tubs, after all. It still works well, but I have less working time. Still well over an hour, but when it does start to set it goes quickly.

Not a major problem, but something to remember.

Boxster · Post by **Boxster** » Wed Jul 27, 2005 8:25 am

Hello Linda,

Thanks, that looks sweet!

I hardly use putty but with some scratch-building projects coming along. I am using it to sculpt or joint areas or cracked areas on RC boat's gelcoats. In fact, Aves is just what I am looking for to replace milliput.

Thanks for the tips, guys!

B