How can I make 1/72 scale canvas?

[homyakchik]

I've got an older mecha kit I'm working on right now. Specifically, it's the <i>Driffand <b>Dal</b></i>, in its release as a Robotech Trigon.

Age problems aside, most of the model looks good and goes well together, but where the two huge manipulator arms in the front join with their hinges at the 'shoulders,' you can see the little plastic workings.

I'm remembering that mecha in some shows (<i>Xabungle</i> is a good source of this) had their shoulder joints and workings covered with a canvas-like substance, one that was flexible, but that covered the joint and gears from the ever-present sand. Rather like the canvas sleeve that you see on tanks at the base of the cannons.

I'd like to make some little 'canvas' shoulder covers for the Dal/Trigon, but I'm not sure what would be both flexible and reasonably tear-proof. (The 1/72-scale is because I'm adapting it into something of that scale.)

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make and fake a canvas sleeve at that scale?

Thanks!

Davey

[max142]

homyakchik: Howdy from Va. Beach ( pembroke area).

Have you tried looking at an old t-shirt? Ypu could cut an appropriate size then dye the desired color.

[rpauly]

Try toilet paper. Use a good, sturdy brand, and "paint" it using thinned white glue (a la paper mache'). It will dry stiff, and gives a good scale effect of canvas.

Just a guess, but from your location, if you can get ahold of good ole' government issue "John Wayne" (it's rough, it's tough, and it doesn't take s*#% off anybody!) toilet paper works great!

[Kylwell]

The tank modelers use everything from tissue paper to fine silk & cotton. The tough part about that kinda thing is making tubes that don't disinegrate.

Hmmm...give me a moment and I'll see what Mr. Brain comes up with.

Question, do you want the joints to remain flexible?

[en'til Zog]

How about fine, fibrous just about anything, and latex rubber? Thin the latex with water, and paint it on. That would have the texture and flexibility! Try fine silk or something thin like that.

[Scott Hasty]

Welcome from Chesapeake! I've done fabric simulations by dipping toilet paper in a VERY thinned down latex and let it dry on a piece of glass or mirror.

Scottie

[homyakchik]

Replying to all (since replying to one doesn't seem to be showing up [it's a weird web day at work anyway]): yes, I'd like to keep the joint flexible. This is going to be part of a Zoids set, and everything <i>else</i> is flexible or posable.

I thought about cloth, but I was afeared that it would sag too much, and <i>look</i> like cloth. Didn't know about the thinned latex trick (haven't worked with it yet) or glue; I'll see if either of those works. I've got enough old t-shirts that my wife wishes would go away anyway that I can sacrifice a few square inches.

Using good old-fashioned 'John Wayne' government-issue isn't a possibility; the stuff they have now is so thin you can see through it. *sigh*

Thanks for all the welcomes from the other Virginians! I'm a Gloucstonian, according to my co-workers, but work in Hampton. Now if there were only more than two model shops on the peninsula...

Davey

[rpauly]

Thanks for all the welcomes from the other Virginians! I'm a Gloucstonian, according to my co-workers, but work in Hampton. Now if there were only more than two model shops on the peninsula...

I used to live in Hampton (I was stationed at the USCG Training Center in Yorktown for several years), and I would KILL to have a place like Denbeigh Hobbies (just off Rt 60 - I forget the cross street, but it's the one just north of the Hooters on Jefferson Ave...)closer than four hours away. That place is a modeler's paradise! The only thing dissapointing was their selection of sci-fi kits, but they will happily special order for you

[Kekker]

Williamsburg here. Yeah, there's only two, and one is a HobbyTown (chain, which focuses more on RC stuff, but still has some good items). I can't say enough about Denbigh Hobby (it's in the SW corner of the intersection of Warwick (Rte 60) and Denbigh). While the SF selection may not be as great as a specialty place, they do have a much better selection than I've seen in most other hobby shops. They even have some SeaQuest kits still around! Dan and Mike (father and son) are both modelers, and Mike does the SF models. As noted above, they will be more than glad to order something for you. I've been a customer for almost 15 years, so they know what I like and suggest stuff that has come in.

Sadly, we used to have two other hobby shops around here: One down in Coliseum Mall, which had a really crabby owner, and Hungates, which although it had a lot of art supplies, also had a good number of kits. Just don't expect the kid behind the counter to know a Mecha from a Mustang. Both of those closed, the first due to the owners' death, and the second due to increased rent by Patrick Henry Mall.

Anyway, enjoy the shops - I've been to just about every hobby shop in the state, and you have to head up to DC to get anything even close to DH in terms of selection!

Oh, and even if you don't have the GI TP, just about any type will do, or use Kleenex. I played around with this type of thing and they both work fine, and stay reasonably flexible with the latex. Actual cloth (except maybe really fine silk) would be way out of scale for 1/72.

Kev

[philp]

Another option the armor guys use is putty and then press some canvas over it before it dries to simulate the canvas.
This probably won't work if you want the area flexible though.

[Devin]

I use tea bag paper for canvas railing covers on my 1/350th scale ship models. Flexible, responds well to water, and you can paint it a little to keep the fiber showing, or more coats to make it smoother.

Check this link, scroll about halfway down to the section titled "Bridge":
http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/sh ... laffey.htm

-Devin

[Jonas Calhoun]

Also, look in the RC airplane section of a hobby shop--.75 oz fiberglass cloth might work. And it'd remain somewhat flexible.

Dan

[david bailey]

for cheap canvas you can use dryer sheets.have used this on several projects/its cheap semi transparent and can be painted.with this you can build up layers and use a mixture of white glue and water to make a paper mache mix.antoher tip is you can use flexiable gause bandages for another cheap canvas trick.thought i pass it on it might help someone out there. thanks

[m_ubelaker]

Since at that scale canvas would appear smooth, and you want somthing flexible but sturdy, try rubber. I would think helium ballons would be heavy enough to survive.
Just a though, never tried for this particular combination before.

[Chacal]

How big is the "gap" that'll have to be covered with the "canvas"? 1/8", 1/4", 1/16"? I would suggest you to "paint" the covering on with liquid masking latex. Place a bit of cotton or a small "shape" of rubber foam (just enough to provide a "surface" for the latex to "grip" around the joint). The cotton or foam (which will have to roughly approximate the final shape, minus the thickness of the latex) will be flexible, of course, and the latex layers won't be thick enough to keep the joint from moving. Paint the "canvas" with thickish, dryish paint and a brush, running the brush along two axes (up and down asn side to side), so the bristles will leave marks that resemble the canvas weave.

[Chacal]

After I posted the reply above, I got thinking:

You can also make a free-standing rubber part! Theoretically (I haven't actually tried it, but you might have a shot at it – if it works, give us feedback): mold the shape of the covering of the joint out of chalk (remember to allow for the thickness of the latex). Proceed to "paint" it with the latex, layering it – it's a patience job. After you're happy with the resulting thickness (it'll have to be thickish to hold its shape), allow a good time to let it dry. Then, very gently, peel it off – soak the whole thing in water to soften the chalk, then "crumble" it away. If the latex is thick enough, it'll hold a shape. then glue it in place with white glue.

In the last latex layer, you might run a dry brush over the not quite dry latex to give it the canvas weave texture.