Prime or not to prime?

[pastorgarret]

I was wondering what prime modelers these days are using? I use to not prime but paint flat black paint before applying a topcoat. Year’s back I switched to a car prime (gray) and achieved great result. The car primer wet sanded well and bonded well to many different types of paints. But recently I found that the same brand I used to use has changed and does not perform as well as it use to. So I thought I would try a primer that was made especially for styrene plastic. I used Tamiya’s white Surface primer and other than it is too expensive it work unbelievable well! I am so impressed.

Any thoughts from the group about prime? What works well? Any experience with different manufactures that worked or didn’t work?

I am just interested in the opinion of other modelers that have more experience than me.

Thanks

Garret

[Marcal]

I use Tamiya primer as well (grey) and it works very well, as you said. What it is also useful is to wash the model (before asembling and priming) with water and soap...

[Lt. Z0mBe]

Depending on what I am trying to do, I will use primer. If I have a lot of very dissimilar surfaces, I'll go with Krylon sandable. However, if I've got a lof of surface imperfections, I'll actually use Duplicolor filler primer. After the primer's well-cured, I'll lightly sand and THEN scribe my panel lines. Yes, I'll somtimes prime a scratchbuilt aerospace fighter before scribing panel lines if there are a bunch of dissimilar surfaces involved.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

[kap108]

I always prime, as priming always gives me a beautiful paint job. The two brands of primer I use: Tamiya Fine Surface Primer Gray and White, and for enamels I use Floquil Gray Primer in the bottle, sprayed through my airbrush. Floquil is the absolute best enamel primer you can use in my opinion. Sprays very smooth.

[woozle]

I also have a black floquil primer.. some finishes look best over black.

[Mr. Badwrench]

I use Model Master grey primer, through the airbrush. But I may have to give the Floquil a try.

[Buzzbomb]

Bits of all the above really.
Although I must say I use an aerosol of generic primer from the $2 Shop quite a bit, as the finish almost as good as the model stuff and on armour kits it don't make that much difference in surface finish.

I always prime to make the bits that need attention stick out by the proverbial dogs orblike objects

Duck outside give it a quick squirt and back inside, no need to set up airbrush, cleaning..... etc

Slack and lazy... but hey thats how I model.

Now the finish... that is a different story

[Blappy]

Mr.Surfacer 1000 and their Mr Color thinner. This the Mr.Surfacer about 70 thiner to 30% primer. This stuff is amazing. And you HAVE to use their thinner for propper results.

I got the thinning tip from an IPMS Nationals Winner.

[TER-OR]

For styrene kits, I don't bother with primer. I find the acrylic Tamiya and Gunze paints adhere just fine - but make sure your model is immaculate.

Go ahead, tell me it can't be done.


If I have a lot of resin, metal and putty, I will use Mr. Surfacer 1000 in the rattlecan.

[pastorgarret]

For styrene kits, I don't bother with primer. I find the acrylic Tamiya and Gunze paints adhere just fine - but make sure your model is immaculate.

Go ahead, tell me it can't be done.


If I have a lot of resin, metal and putty, I will use Mr. Surfacer 1000 in the rattlecan.

I have painted lots of models without prime too, I believe you (I am good at believing)!

I got into the habit because one, I don’t use just one type of paint and two, it helps me see if the fit is good and if I need to sand or not.

Thanks

Garret

[Marcal]

... I believe you (I am good at believing)!...

That was funny !!!