I tried sometime but did not work properly... I guess the first thing is to forget about putty-sand the seams, right?
glueing after paint...
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glueing after paint...
I was wondering... is there any good tip to do that?. I mean to paint at first and the glue parts together?
I tried sometime but did not work properly... I guess the first thing is to forget about putty-sand the seams, right?
I tried sometime but did not work properly... I guess the first thing is to forget about putty-sand the seams, right?
Marcal
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en'til Zog
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I've heard that recommended a lot. "Paint first, Glue later". For me, it doesn't work. I guess I'm either too sloppy or too rushed when I build - I like "sudden death modeling" where I build at a very quick pace. (My Klingon Bug of Prey model was essentially done in one day, details another day, paint (rattle cans) a third day.) Since I use a lot of Tenax-7R, my pre-paint tends to get ruined and has to be redone anyway.
But some talented peole manage to do it!
But some talented peole manage to do it!
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TER-OR
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On a very few models with exceptional fit - like the VF-1 Valkyrie from HAsegawa this can be done. Or, if unpainted mating surfaces can be bonded, or if it's just very small details etc....
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Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
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Warped Speedster
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Painting pieces before gluing has some benefits but can also be very problematic, and usually is.
I'm sure you already know this, but first mask off the surface edges to be glued before painting. Or, of course, scraping them clean before gluing.
Making Repairs:
Most importantly, always apply enough paint on the model so you can go back to sand any seams or surfaces where the glue may have seeped out a bit. If you're using flat paint, you can go back and make touch-ups with the same color.
(I'll assume you're not using "tube glue" as it is much harder to repair)
For touch-ups; first sand the visible glueyness out of the seam as best you can. Then thin the (base color) paint a bit and carefully brush it into the glued seam. You can then micro sand it into the finish. You may have to repeat the process two or three times (or more) before it all looks right, but it will work.
If you notice that you have some unexpected seams in a finished surface after painting and assembly, you can fill them in by using the same method. Again, think ahead when spray painting. Apply enough paint for the task should the need arise.
To fill in tiny seams and gaps, you use the same base color. But this time you need to let the paint thicken a bit, so it becomes almost like a paste. You can do this by globbing some into a small cup and just letting it set for 30 minutes or so. Carefully brush it into the seam and let it dry. It'll probably shrink a bit so wait a day and then brush on a little more until you're sure it has filled the seam. (Repeat if nessa) Then do the same micro sanding as mentioned before.
When micro sanding a repaired section use 800 grit wet/dry paper with water. Use just the >lightest touch< on the painted surface when sanding.
A side note: I always do a final light sanding on all my paint jobs anyways to get rid of any "tooth" in the finish, so any repair sanding usually blends right in to the finish.
It takes patience and persistence, but most finishes and problem areas can be touched-up using this method. It works pretty good with flat paints. I haven't tried it with gloss finishes yet.
Hope this helps.
I'm sure you already know this, but first mask off the surface edges to be glued before painting. Or, of course, scraping them clean before gluing.
Making Repairs:
Most importantly, always apply enough paint on the model so you can go back to sand any seams or surfaces where the glue may have seeped out a bit. If you're using flat paint, you can go back and make touch-ups with the same color.
(I'll assume you're not using "tube glue" as it is much harder to repair)
For touch-ups; first sand the visible glueyness out of the seam as best you can. Then thin the (base color) paint a bit and carefully brush it into the glued seam. You can then micro sand it into the finish. You may have to repeat the process two or three times (or more) before it all looks right, but it will work.
If you notice that you have some unexpected seams in a finished surface after painting and assembly, you can fill them in by using the same method. Again, think ahead when spray painting. Apply enough paint for the task should the need arise.
To fill in tiny seams and gaps, you use the same base color. But this time you need to let the paint thicken a bit, so it becomes almost like a paste. You can do this by globbing some into a small cup and just letting it set for 30 minutes or so. Carefully brush it into the seam and let it dry. It'll probably shrink a bit so wait a day and then brush on a little more until you're sure it has filled the seam. (Repeat if nessa) Then do the same micro sanding as mentioned before.
When micro sanding a repaired section use 800 grit wet/dry paper with water. Use just the >lightest touch< on the painted surface when sanding.
A side note: I always do a final light sanding on all my paint jobs anyways to get rid of any "tooth" in the finish, so any repair sanding usually blends right in to the finish.
It takes patience and persistence, but most finishes and problem areas can be touched-up using this method. It works pretty good with flat paints. I haven't tried it with gloss finishes yet.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Warped Speedster on Thu Nov 24, 2005 3:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Did I just see a Ford fly by?
I've never been able to have a set way of building. It tends to the glue, paint, sand, glue, paint, sand, glue, sand, paint, sand, paint, sand, paint.
I'll sometimes paint on the sprue but rarely is it a "finished coat". If I'm following the general scheme of model but say changin it from red to blue I'll give the parts a shot of color on the sprue, knowing that when I assemble I'll be sanding seams and re-painting.
Some kits you have to paint after assembly, other you can build in subassemblies and then paint, and very few you can paint first, glue later. And yes, it's a good idea to remove paint from the gluing surfaces, or if it's a Bandai kit, from the mating sufraces.
Bandai had got the tightest tollerances I've ever seen. Two coats of paint can be enough to make the parts not fit right. Stump of wood is right.
I'll sometimes paint on the sprue but rarely is it a "finished coat". If I'm following the general scheme of model but say changin it from red to blue I'll give the parts a shot of color on the sprue, knowing that when I assemble I'll be sanding seams and re-painting.
Some kits you have to paint after assembly, other you can build in subassemblies and then paint, and very few you can paint first, glue later. And yes, it's a good idea to remove paint from the gluing surfaces, or if it's a Bandai kit, from the mating sufraces.
Bandai had got the tightest tollerances I've ever seen. Two coats of paint can be enough to make the parts not fit right. Stump of wood is right.
Abolish Alliteration