Fine Cracks in Future??!!??
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Fine Cracks in Future??!!??
Well Im trying to finish the base for my NX-01. And I finally put a coat of future on it. It looked really good about 12 hours after application. However now, 24+ hours later, I glanced at it and thought there was a bunch of cat hair stuck to it. Well....it wasnt cat hair.
It appears that for some reason the future has developed very fine cracks all over the surface. You can only see them in certain angles of light.
So.....anyone have any idea what happened here? And whats the best way to remove the future? Windex?
All help appreciated....
Stilgar
It appears that for some reason the future has developed very fine cracks all over the surface. You can only see them in certain angles of light.
So.....anyone have any idea what happened here? And whats the best way to remove the future? Windex?
All help appreciated....
Stilgar
Is it possible that there was a moisture contamination in your application? Do you have a moisture trap in our airbrush? What did you thin the Future with?
Differential drying would certainly cause what you describe. How many coats did you apply? Did you give them each a chance to cure before applying the next?
As for removing it, anything with amonia will work.
Differential drying would certainly cause what you describe. How many coats did you apply? Did you give them each a chance to cure before applying the next?
As for removing it, anything with amonia will work.
Future Not so bright
I stopped using Future for this very reason. I had trouble when sprayed over Gunze. Everyone says the uncured paint thing. The way I build I have to tell you that freakin paint was cured long before any Future touched the model. I now use Future on the floor where it belongs and pony up the dough for the brand of gloss/flat that goes with the paint I am using. This way I don't ruin a kit that took me 3 months to complete!
Cheers,
Max Bryant
Cheers,
Max Bryant
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I'm starting to think it's a problem with putting Future over a glossy surface. I've had troubles with that myself - never with a flat paint or rarely with semigloss. This is usually Gunze and Tamiya I'm talking about, btw.
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If your Future cracks, your model's not ruined. Dip a cotton swab in Windex and buff out the cracks. You can do the same for Future runs or drips.
But, shoot Future in very light coats over gloss coats to avoid cracking in the first place. Make sure enamels/lacquers/calf manure/acrylics or whatever you paint with are completely cured before you paint.
I hope this helps.
Kenny
But, shoot Future in very light coats over gloss coats to avoid cracking in the first place. Make sure enamels/lacquers/calf manure/acrylics or whatever you paint with are completely cured before you paint.
I hope this helps.
Kenny
Yes But
This is true. Windex will clean up Future. I use it to flush Future from my airbrush.Lt. Z0mBe wrote:If your Future cracks, your model's not ruined. Dip a cotton swab in Windex and buff out the cracks. You can do the same for Future runs or drips.
But, shoot Future in very light coats over gloss coats to avoid cracking in the first place. Make sure enamels/lacquers/calf manure/acrylics or whatever you paint with are completely cured before you paint.
I hope this helps.
Kenny
No Windex will not save a model that has been gloss coated with Future for decaling then shot with clear flat to dull out the shine.
Cheers,
Max Bryant
err...now you have me worried...
I do plan to airbrush future on the model after decals are complete, and then use dull coat to remove the gloss. Will this be a problem?
I will really REALLY be pissed if I ruin this model on the very last step of the entire process....
Stilgar
(note - the cracks mentioned above are on the base for the model, not the model itself. And it appears that windex has removed most of them)
I do plan to airbrush future on the model after decals are complete, and then use dull coat to remove the gloss. Will this be a problem?
I will really REALLY be pissed if I ruin this model on the very last step of the entire process....
Stilgar
(note - the cracks mentioned above are on the base for the model, not the model itself. And it appears that windex has removed most of them)
My usual technique for dullcoat is to mix Polyscale Flat Clear into Future. I really like the results, and by varying the mix, I can get everything from semi-gloss to satin to flat to dead flat.
I've found that as long as the mix is at least 30% Future (a flat satin), I can still remove it with windex.
I've found that as long as the mix is at least 30% Future (a flat satin), I can still remove it with windex.
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I've had bad experiences with Future over gloss as well. What I have done from then on is:
1). Spray Dullcote over the surface if it wasn't flat in the first place.
2). Apply decals, along with decal adhesive so they don't peal.
3). Apply a light coat of Future on the decals first.
4). Apply another light coat of Future. Let dry and repeat 3 or 4 times.
5). Spray Dullcote if desired.
This usually works wonders, especially considering Ertl decals absolutely hate Dullcote. Found that out the hard way, on a fiber optic Enterprise D kit.
1). Spray Dullcote over the surface if it wasn't flat in the first place.
2). Apply decals, along with decal adhesive so they don't peal.
3). Apply a light coat of Future on the decals first.
4). Apply another light coat of Future. Let dry and repeat 3 or 4 times.
5). Spray Dullcote if desired.
This usually works wonders, especially considering Ertl decals absolutely hate Dullcote. Found that out the hard way, on a fiber optic Enterprise D kit.
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