Masking

[joey_d1119]

I use Hobbico Liquid Mask....but I cant seem to be able to mask off little windows say on the 1/350 Enterprise A. What do you all use to mask windows

Also how do you mask lines. On the 1/350 Enterprise A where the neck meets the secondary hull, where it is blueish green.....how do you mark and mask those thick lines?

And what about those lines around the edge of the saucer section. How do you do that?

I guess my overall question is how do you mask superfine lines and windows.

[irishtrek]

Have you tryied masking before installing the windows? Or if you have already installed them then you might try dipping the bunt end of a hobby file in the liquid mask and touch it to the windows 1 at a time.

[Lt. Z0mBe]

joey,

I haven't built a Trek model in a loooong time. Also, this is really more of a topic for the "Finishing" forum. But, I have masked some small clear parts. Here's what I would recommend for masking small parts.

I have a glass top on my workbench. I place regular, "full-strength" masking tape on the bench, and cut the piece I need using a metal straight-edge and X-acto. I pry the piece up, and apply it to the model. This leaves enough adhesive behind on the model (usually) to keep it from pulling up the underlying paint. You can cut very thin strips this way. Just be certain your X-Acto blade is sharp.

Applying the tape to the model, I burnish the edges down with the handle of a paint brush.

Once it's applied to the model, I seal the edges with either clear gloss, flat, or neither sealant. This will lock the edges down. You can also seal with a color coat if masking off a colored area of the same color.

Sometimes, say for a clear part I have NOT applied Future to, I will use Castin Craft brand latex mold builder. This stuff contains ammonia, so DO NOT use it over acrylics or Future, or anything thinned with ammonia or alcohol. Apply with a brush; it sets up thick, and it may require a few coats over a large area.

Also, have you tried Silly Putty? It can be used to mask areas. But beware, as it will flow a little with gravity.

Whatever you use, though, make sure you seal those edges with a clear or color coat.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

[Kylwell]

Tamiya masking tape, there is no better.

Masking fine lines is painful. The easiest is to paint the line color, lay fine tape over the areas and paint as normal. This can be a problem with very fine lines. I've been experimenting with Chartpak fine line tape but so far it's just too damned sticky. Been trying the glass trick to reduce the stickyness but to no avail.

In the past I've drawn them on later with a technical pen, used decal paper, or just ignored them.

I've been meaning to experiment again with the liquid masking agents but in the past I found them too be a bit on teh aggressive side and if left on the model for too long (say several days) it would not come off except in little tiny flakes.

[Jonas Calhoun]

I've got some Ambroid liquid mask that I've tested leaving on a model for 6 months (yeah, I forgot about it...sue me). It pulled off with no trouble--it was still pliable after all that time, and didn't hurt the paint below.

I've also heard the same about Gunze's Neo Masking Sol (not the Masking Sol)...

Dan

[TER-OR]

circle punches are the best way to mask circular windows. Square windows are trickier -