Several folks who are currently working on the Fine Molds Falcon have mentioned using a Dremel drill to create battle damage on the hull (blast craters, scars, scrapes, etc).
Which model of drill is recommended, and which attachment(s) and techniques provide the best results?
As you can imagine, I'm nervous about intentionally grinding away at the expensive FM kit, so want to consider my options before committing (or having myself committed!). If battle scarring is a difficult effect to achieve, I don't mind not doing it. I'd rather have a less-than-accurate Falcon than one in several pieces.
Thanks!
Att
Dremel advice
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
Any Dremel tool would do the job,battery or A/C.Many other brands are out there also.Depends on the budget.The bits are pretty much interchangable,but check for availabilty and selection before buying anything.The bits you can use vary a great deal,mainly preference,but begin looking for "BURR" style bits.Round or tear shaped,with cutting grooves all around the surface.I like the round ones myself,about the size of a BB and smaller.They can take a lot of material off pretty fast,so go SLOW.And secure one of the two,drill or part,to the workbench.They can chew you up pretty fast too.I have used them for hollowing out the insides of resin copies of racing helmets to put with every race car I build.Also to grind away the insides of grills on cars and armor kits.Can`t imagine not having one now that I`ve got it.
I don`t care if its not broke,fix it anyway.
- Kolschey
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I do simulated damage, but only on scratchbuilt material.
Truth be told, having spent a few years playing with damage effects in 1/48th scale, I found that it was WAY too easy to take away more material by tool or heat than you would initially expect.
That said, when I work scratchbuilt, I definitely concur that the rounded burr shapes are really good for doing quick material removal at a smaller scale. I recommend going in with a hand tool afterwards to fine-tune the effects.
Hope this helps!
Truth be told, having spent a few years playing with damage effects in 1/48th scale, I found that it was WAY too easy to take away more material by tool or heat than you would initially expect.
That said, when I work scratchbuilt, I definitely concur that the rounded burr shapes are really good for doing quick material removal at a smaller scale. I recommend going in with a hand tool afterwards to fine-tune the effects.
Hope this helps!
Krzysztof Mathews
http://www.firstgearterritories.com
http://www.firstgearterritories.com
Cordless 9.6 volt model. Used everything from sanding drums to dental bits to shape the damage. Spend hours looking at photos marking the areas needing carving, bending, or cutting.
The blast holes where done by carving the back out with a drum until paper thin, then punching through with an exacto. Much like making rust damage on a car model.
There are a lot sof little, fine dents, dings, and scrapes on the hull.
The blast holes where done by carving the back out with a drum until paper thin, then punching through with an exacto. Much like making rust damage on a car model.
There are a lot sof little, fine dents, dings, and scrapes on the hull.
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