adhering tin foil to plastic

Marlonius · Post by **Marlonius** » Tue Mar 07, 2006 4:02 pm

I recall several old FSM articles that showed how to do this.

Has anyone ever tried it themselves, and what type of adhesive to you use? I was thinking of thinning contact cement with acetone.

Any info appreciated!

-Marlonius

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Mar 07, 2006 4:14 pm

I usually use CA.

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 12:18 am

I usually use white glue like the article suggested.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 10:24 am

Ah, yes, the 'real metal finish' look. Carpenders glue, the Elmers variety. Dries a little slower and a lot tackier than regular Elmer's.

Kekker · Post by **Kekker** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 1:50 pm

No, no, no...

There are adhesives made specifically for doing this! Microscale makes a metal foil adhesive that thins out nicely with alcohol. Also, any big art & craft store (like Michaels) will have adhesive used for gold and silver leaf. I've used both with great results. They can be thinned down, air brushed, or just brushed on. Cleanup with alcohol is easy.

If you want a good, thin foil, go to a candy/cake shop and get the foils used for wrapping homemade candy. It comes in different colors, and is nice and thin. Or you can use regular cooking foil for greater strength/size. Color on that can be altered by boiling the foil with eggshells, which can darken it.

All of these are very cheap, and will cost much less than sheet after sheet of Bare Metal Foil(tm).

Kev

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 1:53 pm

Sizing is fine but doesn't have the grip that carpenders glue has, which you need for some of the tugging and pushing that you do with aluminum foil.

Marlonius · Post by **Marlonius** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 4:47 pm

Kekker wrote:No, no, no...

There are adhesives made specifically for doing this! Microscale makes a metal foil adhesive that thins out nicely with alcohol. Also, any big art & craft store (like Michaels) will have adhesive used for gold and silver leaf. I've used both with great results. They can be thinned down, air brushed, or just brushed on. Cleanup with alcohol is easy.

If you want a good, thin foil, go to a candy/cake shop and get the foils used for wrapping homemade candy. It comes in different colors, and is nice and thin. Or you can use regular cooking foil for greater strength/size. Color on that can be altered by boiling the foil with eggshells, which can darken it.

All of these are very cheap, and will cost much less than sheet after sheet of Bare Metal Foil(tm).

Kev

That's the info I was after! Thanks - I'll hit the crafts stores this weekend.

Captain Mark · Post by **Captain Mark** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 9:30 pm

http://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal/ba ... _foil.html

The above link should provide you with all you need.
Many different types of bare-metal foil, and reasonably priced.

Cheers,
M

lestatdelc · Post by **lestatdelc** » Sun Mar 12, 2006 2:09 am

I have been getting solid results so far with he Microscale product straight up with regular Reynolds Wrap foil. But will try thinning it a little with alcohol to see if I can get a smoother lay-down which becomes noticeable when you start putting layers on top of each other (gotten so with a single layer you do not notice it at all). This issue (noticeable wavy glue ripples) is coming up in my foil tests in using multiple layers with differing grains in the metal. I am using the inherent metal grain in sheet foil to get the speculairty shifts of the aztec patterns in my PL refit tests with good results, but a thinned glue may make it flawless.