I'm dithering with the possibility of using plaster instead of RTV rubber for making a rather large mold (13in by 8in). I've had success with RTV, but the cost of the stuff gives me pause.
Has anyone had experience with using plaster? Aside from having to use mold release, are there any extra precautions with using it?
Any info would be greatly appreciated
Plaster for Moldmaking...Has Anyone Tried This?
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
- TER-OR
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10531
- Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
- Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
- Contact:
Yeah, backing rubber with plaster does work - I've seen molds made that way.
But you won't have any flexibility - big things need rigidity anyway.
But you won't have any flexibility - big things need rigidity anyway.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Use a thickening agent to make the silicone brushable, start with a super thin coat then use thicker coats to get it about 1/2" thick. Then cover it with a plaster jacket reinforced with burlap strips, making sure to key the silicone before covering the rubber with plaster.
That saves on rubber and negates the bubble issue.
http://sovereignreplicas.com/SM-9.jpg
That saves on rubber and negates the bubble issue.
http://sovereignreplicas.com/SM-9.jpg
Thanks Rel -- and others for their help.REL wrote:Use a thickening agent to make the silicone brushable, start with a super thin coat then use thicker coats to get it about 1/2" thick. Then cover it with a plaster jacket reinforced with burlap strips, making sure to key the silicone before covering the rubber with plaster.
That saves on rubber and negates the bubble issue.
http://sovereignreplicas.com/SM-9.jpg
Can you explain the keying part?
I'm going to put serveral coats of RTV on the pattern then cover that with plaster (it is all going to be in a rectangular mold box)
- Chacal
- Posts: 3654
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 3:09 pm
- Location: Rio. Always unseasonably warm, even in the Winter, when we'll host the Summer Olympic Games of 2016
Silicone doesn't like to stick to things, so it won't stick to the plaster. Keying is done the same way you would key a two-part mold, making raised bumps or indentations on the area of the Silicone that the plaster will cover later, so that you can place the silicone "blanket" (it will be thinner than a conventional mold, of course) on the right place inside the plaster mold, so the negative shape of what you want to duplicate remains exact.
Sheer elegance in its simplicity.
Political unrest in dictatorships is rather like a round of rock-paper-scissors: The oposition goes on denouncing the regime on the papers, the regime censors the papers, rock-throwing ensues.
Political unrest in dictatorships is rather like a round of rock-paper-scissors: The oposition goes on denouncing the regime on the papers, the regime censors the papers, rock-throwing ensues.
-
- Posts: 1020
- Joined: Wed May 24, 2006 9:58 am
- Location: Newton, MA
a plaster mold is for master models that are made of clay or otherwise soft things and above all, are for one copy only. They are called "waste molds" because you have to break the mold to get at the cast, hence "when they made so and so, they broke the mold."
I have some experience pulling waste molds from clay masters. Thats the only way it will work.
Use something flexible for a mold. always.
I have some experience pulling waste molds from clay masters. Thats the only way it will work.
Use something flexible for a mold. always.
When life gives you lemons, don't despair. no one gives me lemons
Here's some info:
http://paleo.cc/casting/silsum.htm
and another:
http://www.themonsterlab.com/vance-matrixmold.html
and this:
http://www.duke.edu/~mtb3/castingmanual/chapter_2.html
and yet another:
http://www.conceptart.org/forums/showth ... light=mold
also google-"Silicone jacket mold: for a lot more info.
http://paleo.cc/casting/silsum.htm
and another:
http://www.themonsterlab.com/vance-matrixmold.html
and this:
http://www.duke.edu/~mtb3/castingmanual/chapter_2.html
and yet another:
http://www.conceptart.org/forums/showth ... light=mold
also google-"Silicone jacket mold: for a lot more info.
-
- Posts: 505
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 4:23 am
I have used plaster to make molds of of clay patterns. I was able to make more than one because I was careful with the clay. It just needed some minor repair afterwards.
Here's a link:
http://public.fotki.com/robertburns/my_ ... e_process/
Keep in mind clay shrinks. The master needs to be removed while the plaster is still warm. When it cures it shrinks and will crack if the master is still inside.
Cleanup is a hassel until I bought a rubber bowl from Micro Mark. It works very well.
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.as ... t&ID=83246
I love making molds with plaster. It's fun, easy, and inexpensive.
Here's a link:
http://public.fotki.com/robertburns/my_ ... e_process/
Keep in mind clay shrinks. The master needs to be removed while the plaster is still warm. When it cures it shrinks and will crack if the master is still inside.
Cleanup is a hassel until I bought a rubber bowl from Micro Mark. It works very well.
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.as ... t&ID=83246
I love making molds with plaster. It's fun, easy, and inexpensive.