Klean Clay

Darkov · Post by **Darkov** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 9:39 pm

Now why is it called that again? It's stickier than all get out and a regular pain in the @ss to use.

I know it doesn't have impurities in it that can affect the curing of RTV but man.... I've tried using talc on it but it still seems to stick to everything. Are there any other alternatives to using this stuff? Sorry I just needed to rant.

Pete

tonyG2 · Post by **tonyG2** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 11:54 pm

Thank You!!!!

I have the same views on the UK equivalent - Nu-Clay (and I hate these bastardised Toys R us type spellings while I'm on the subject).

Nu Clay sticks to everthing in sight. Leaves clumps stuck to the RTV. Messes up the master.

I've switched to using Blu-Tac. Its way too stiff but provides a clean seal and doesn't leave any residue behind...

Sparky · Post by **Sparky** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:26 am

I use the stuff from alumilite. It can be difficult to clean off a part that had lots of complex surface detail. But try doing that when you used sculpy, had to toss some model parts the first time I tryied to a double mold, that sculpy never came out of the slots in the kilngon nacelles from the "Incident" set.

Spacephrawg · Post by **Spacephrawg** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 3:40 am

clean clay is called that because it doesnt have sulfur in it. Its an alternative to plastelene which is whats used for sculpture. Sooo clean clay is for sculpture.

Sparky · Post by **Sparky** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 2:38 pm

The stuff from allumilte is called:
Alumilite's Synthetic Modeling Clay

It sthe 7th item down:
http://www.alumilite.com/line.cfm?Action=view&ID=4
Above the sculpy

Darkov · Post by **Darkov** » Tue Aug 22, 2006 8:00 pm

Has anyone tried to use "Silly Putty"?

macfrank · Post by **macfrank** » Tue Aug 22, 2006 11:21 pm

Darkov wrote:Has anyone tried to use "Silly Putty"?

Silly putty flows, unless you cool it. It also tends to stick and make a mess. Blu Tack is a good substitute for Kleen Clay.

tonyG2 · Post by **tonyG2** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 9:17 am

Tip for using blutac - warm it first and really work it like making pizza dough to soften it up otherwise it can be too stiff to push in the master without damaging it.

Owen E Oulton · Post by **Owen E Oulton** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 12:47 am

To keep modelling clay from sticking to RTV, two simple words - mould release. A good heavy application of an aerosol mould release - well, actually several light-medium coats - will cut down the amount of plasticene that sticks to the moulds. A good scrub with a toothbrush and a few drops of dishwashing liquid followed by a rinse with warm water should take care of the rest.

tonyG2 · Post by **tonyG2** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 2:12 am

Its not just that Klean Klay or Nu Clay sticks to the master and to the set RTV like superglue. It sticks to the molding box, tools, the work bench, your hands. Everything it comes into contact with.

Its messy, foul and a POA to work with and mold release only limits but doesn't overcome those problems. At least thats my experiance.

However, BluTac has its problems as well. The main one is it is stiff. But also its a problem to build a mold box and then put the BluTac inside. You either have to cut it to shape and hope you leave no gaps or roll out a wide sheet, push in the master etc and then build the mold box onto the surface of the blutac sheet - and that can be a problem as it often leaks RTV.

macfrank · Post by **macfrank** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 12:53 pm

Owen E Oulton wrote:To keep modelling clay from sticking to RTV, two simple words - mould release.

Maybe it's me - but just last week I made a mold and used Kleen Klay as a support for some of the parts. I covered everything in mold release before sticking them onto the Kleen Klay. The mold release acts as a lubricant, making it easier to position the part just right before pushing it home.
I still had a few blue specks of the stuff in some panel lines! I took a toothbrush and some alcohol to it and got the stuff out, but it was an annoyance.

The Kleen Klay sticks to Lego bricks, too - something that amazes me since few things will stick to Legos plastic.

Frank

modelbaseguy · Post by **modelbaseguy** » Mon Aug 28, 2006 2:33 pm

Actually I like the Klean Klay products. I used the extra firm but it is still soft and it does stick to everything but I just wash everything down in alcohol, water and dish detergent (my standard cleaning potion for cleaning resin). It is cheap and it gets the job done. Once you have reused the clay for a bit it tends to be less sticky but it is not completely tack free.

For mold release I use petroleum jelly thinned with paint thinner (not mineral spirits) in a 1 to 5 ratio. I apply it with an old airbrush in multiple light coats and I have yet to have the silicone stick to my masters. That is unless I do something stupid like a large undercut

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