Hi:
I have just started modeling.
I am building smaller moldels working my way up to the PL refit.
Here is my problem: Model Master's Acrylic!!! I can airbrush with them fine, but when it comes to handbrushing, it is like painting with milk.
I have also tryed Testor's acrylics with the same result. A milky mess.
I stir them and shake them forever!!!
What am I doing wrong?
Should I switch to enamels for handbrushing?
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Model Master Acrylic Problems
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
Re: Model Master Acrylic Problems
Testor's has a line of paints called Model Master, which includes acrylic paint. Years ago, they had a brand that was Model Master's Acrylic - the formulation was awful; coverage was poor and it turned to goo in the jar
within months.
The current Model Master acrylic paint is called Acryl. It's a close relative to another Testor's brand, Floquil Pollyscale. Some of the Acryl and Pollyscale paints can be brushed, but some colors will be translucent.
If the paint - right out of the bottle, without thinning - is translucent when painted onto the model, you'll just have to brush paint several layers, or paint a layer of primer that is close to the paint color.
Other acrylics you can try are Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo, although some of their colors will be translucent as well.
Frank
within months.
The current Model Master acrylic paint is called Acryl. It's a close relative to another Testor's brand, Floquil Pollyscale. Some of the Acryl and Pollyscale paints can be brushed, but some colors will be translucent.
If the paint - right out of the bottle, without thinning - is translucent when painted onto the model, you'll just have to brush paint several layers, or paint a layer of primer that is close to the paint color.
Other acrylics you can try are Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo, although some of their colors will be translucent as well.
Frank
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Re: Model Master Acrylic Problems
Couldn't hurt to try. I had less problems diluting enamels and getting a good results handbrushing than with acrylics, unless they're Tamiya acrylics.seral1969 wrote:
Should I switch to enamels for handbrushing?
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I use acrylics for most painting - with oils and enamels for some drybrushing and washing effects.
Most of these model acrylics are meant for airbrushing. If you want to focus on hand-brushing, you'll benefit from paints like Vallejo, Reaper, Games Workshop etc. These are formulated with more carrier, higher pigment loads, and flattening agents. They're designed to be diluted with drying retarder and flow agents for layering and blending.
You can get decent results hand-brushing with enamels, if you use a broad, flat brush and paint several light coats - preferably in different directions.
Most of these model acrylics are meant for airbrushing. If you want to focus on hand-brushing, you'll benefit from paints like Vallejo, Reaper, Games Workshop etc. These are formulated with more carrier, higher pigment loads, and flattening agents. They're designed to be diluted with drying retarder and flow agents for layering and blending.
You can get decent results hand-brushing with enamels, if you use a broad, flat brush and paint several light coats - preferably in different directions.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati