repetative filling

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 2:49 pm

How many times would it be safe for one to putty a seam or gap on any given vacuform model? The puttying successfully filled the gaps but there's small imperfections in the putty itself and I'm concerned that over puttying will cause the already thin styrene to become gummy.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 3:00 pm

What kinda of putty? Dear gawd don't say you're using Squadron.

It's usally best to back up the edges of vac kits with more styrene or use Mr. Badwrench's patented micro fibreglass system.

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 3:07 pm

kylwell wrote:What kinda of putty? Dear gawd don't say you're using Squadron.

No squadron...never again. Or Testors' for that matter.

Bondo!

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 3:09 pm

Keep it thin and let it fully cure inbetween and you should be fine.

Mr. Badwrenches patented micro fibreglass is just medical guaze and CA. He great for renforcing seam from teh inside.

Wug · Post by **Wug** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 5:51 am

Hi,

Can you get to the inside of the model and back the seam with epoxy?

Mike

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 11:14 am

Wug wrote:Hi,

Can you get to the inside of the model and back the seam with epoxy?

Mike

Nope. It's sealed.

Even though I've filled twice, there's still a slight dent or curvature in the seam where the putty is. I guess it's attributed to shrink of the putty or something.

I'm thinking about applying a strip of styrene to the edge just to make the edge straight and flawless but there's a part that's applied to that edge and might make for a poor fit later.

Should I continue puttying?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 11:43 am

1) I'd let it sit and cure for a few days. 2) Is it possible that you're sanding the curve flat? It's easy to do unless youre using a Flexifile (which makes it stil possible but harder to do).

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 11:48 am

That's what I want it to do. Make the curvature in the putty flat and flush with the surrounding styrene.

Mark Yungblut · Post by **Mark Yungblut** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 3:26 pm

Try using Aves or Magic Sculpt and smoothing it with a flat brush and alcohol. You may find that you can come very close to thte desired shape and when it is cured you'll havev very little sanding and no shrinkage.

Cheers,

Mark

mech · Post by **mech** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 3:35 pm

^^^what he said. Werkt fer me that last time I did it.
Usually though, with standard putty, I just let each layer cure for a couple days between sandings.

j

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 3:56 pm

Mark Yungblut wrote:Try using Aves or Magic Sculpt and smoothing it with a flat brush and alcohol. You may find that you can come very close to thte desired shape and when it is cured you'll havev very little sanding and no shrinkage.

Cheers,

Mark

actually, you reminded me that I have some Milliput. I just used some. Damn, it's hard on the fingers kneading it together! I dipped it in some water periodically to loosen it up and applied it to the seam. In three hours, I'll let you know how it turned out.

Mark Yungblut · Post by **Mark Yungblut** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 5:45 pm

At some point loose the Milliput as it is crap. Aves and Magic Sculpt are much finer grained as well as being tolerant of inprecise 50 50 blending.

Milliput was good when it came out years ago. The new formula putties are far superior to Milliput.

Just my 2 cents,

Mark

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 5:53 pm

I have been meaning to pick up some Aves at some point in the near future. But alas, which to get? The paste or the sculp? I'll be using it primarially for filling seams and polishing out imperfections.

I did try to get the good stuff at the hobby store. It's superfine white.

Go Flight · Post by **Go Flight** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 6:37 pm

Babaganoosh wrote:I have been meaning to pick up some Aves at some point in the near future. But alas, which to get? The paste or the sculp? I'll be using it primarially for filling seams and polishing out imperfections.

I did try to get the good stuff at the hobby store. It's superfine white.

I'd pick up the Apoxie Sculpt. It's a 1:1 mix and kneads easily. Plus it smoothes out with just water and a flat paint brush, and dries like a rock.

Arklan · Post by **Arklan** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 6:49 pm

i've had a sample of the aves paste for over a year now... havent used it yet, as the sculpt variety seems to fill my needs perfectly well. it can be pressed pretty thin, smoothed out with just water, and is non toxic. this stuff is great.

mech · Post by **mech** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 7:38 pm

Ditto on the aves sculpt. Great stuff.

j

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Fri Oct 06, 2006 6:24 pm

Okay, no more Milliput unless it's for internal bracing. Doesn't make for a good filler. Someone prove me wrong, please. T'would be a shame for it to go to waste.

I just had to carve it off the model because it's hard to sand evenly and smooth. Maybe I didn't knead it enough or something because it was still a little gummy nearly 26 hours after I applied it.

So, Aves then?

Mark Yungblut · Post by **Mark Yungblut** » Fri Oct 06, 2006 8:59 pm

Two factors figure in with Milliput age and mixing ratio. It is very unforgiving if not mixed almost exactly 50/50. Also if it is over a year old it could be going bad which will effect it's ability to cure completely.

Later,

Mark

Treadhead · Post by **Treadhead** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 12:07 pm

I always get 'putty-pits' when using filler. The best solution that I found was to let the putty fully cure and go over it with Mr. Surfacer 500. If you need more than one coat, let each one cure before using the next.

After that, give it one coat of Mr. Surfacer 1000. That shoud do the trick.

As for Milliput, I found the extra fine grade very useful -- but it's pricey.

A Putty-Pit Eradicating
Treadhead