Aves Apoxie Scuplt - What's the trick??

[Treadhead]

How cold is it where you are now? I'm wondering whether or not extreme cold temperatures inhibit curing.

[Bar]

I tend to use the paste as an adhesive - it works very well. It's a tad too goopy for use as a filler IMHO. Apoxie Sculpt is what I use for filler and adding detail. It is much firmer and easier to sculpt.

I like to use the paste as an aid to getting the upper surface of a scratchbuild uniform(Especially when mating two disparate surfaces together). It tends to equalise over a surface better than normal apoxie sculpt, and needs less sanding.

But back to the problem. It really needs to be mixed as well as can be. I use tight fitting rubber gloves to protect my hands, and keep going at it the same way i'd knead sculpey(At least ten minutes of mixing). After that, it will definitely cure properly.
I have had this same problem before with the stuff. It was on the master for the 302 jet engines, but i eventually got through the "improperly mixed" layer, and it was fine after that. It taught me a valuable lesson...
Bar.

[bluesman]

What Bar said... mix for at least two minutes, but more would not hurt.

Also use plain ol rubbing alcohol to smooth and shape the stuff...you can use water, but i find alcohol makes it less sticky.

[Kylwell]

Or smooth while wearing cheap disposable gloves. I was stunned at how smooth you can get it.

[Tony Agustin]

I find the stuff very difficult to work with when I need to 're-sculpt' limbs and clothing in re-posed figures. It's just too sticky even after cutting it with talc.

For me Aves is best for filling seams since it doesn't shrink like the Squadron Green putties do.

If you want to try a different 2 part epoxy putty I've found that Magic-Sculpt is better for both seam filling and sculpting. I highly recommend Magic Sculpt.

[Kylwell]

When I need to scuplt it I'll let it sit, after mixing, for an hour or 2. Then talc and play.

[Bar]

I meant to mention that too.
I have found the batch i have(Possibly every batch, but i can only speak for mine), takes an overnight session to fully cure, and sometimes longer depending on the conditions of the area it's left in.
So for sculpting purposes, let it sit, but keep the an eye on the time...
Bar.

[SMuser]

I use a digital gram scale to measure my apoxie parts. I can mix large or small accurately. It is such a useful tool to have.

I tested my ability to "eyeball" and while I estimated carefully, I was usually WAY off, by like 80% or more, which surprised me to be sure.

If I didn't have my digital scale, I would rig up a balance beam from PVC and fishing line or something. That would be close enough

[Jonas Calhoun]

Wait...is it mixing 1:1 by volume, or weight?

Dan

[Arklan]

ya know, i never thought about that. i always assumed volume and tried to get the blobs to be the same size... never worried bout the weight.

course, i've also never used the paste, and doing things the way i have for the sculpt works wonderfully.

[TER-OR]

Volume - and I think we're getting the paste and sculpt products mixed up. I've never had trouble with the Apoxie Sculpt, and I just guesstimate the ratio.

[Arklan]

i think your right ter...


come to think of it, i bought one of the sample packs of aves ... about a year and a half ago... i dontthink i've ever even OPENED the paste. i should probably do that sometime.

EDIT: *opens up paste, mixes... makes horrid mess...* ...on second thought... *pitches it to the trash* i'll stick with the sculpt.

[TER-OR]

You can thin the sculpt down pretty far with alcohol or their thinner.
It won't be as strong, but you can get a smooth finish.

[Marco Scheloske]

i think your right ter...


come to think of it, i bought one of the sample packs of aves ... about a year and a half ago... i dontthink i've ever even OPENED the paste. i should probably do that sometime.

EDIT: *opens up paste, mixes... makes horrid mess...* ...on second thought... *pitches it to the trash* i'll stick with the sculpt.

I LOVE the paste! Really. It works great for me, the kind of thin putty I always looked for.

[TER-OR]

Hey Marko - how about a write-up and pictures for the site? I'd like to figure out how to use it better, I'm sure it must have some use - but until I see and read better experience, I'll continue to do what I know.

[Marco Scheloske]

Hey Marko - how about a write-up and pictures for the site? I'd like to figure out how to use it better, I'm sure it must have some use - but until I see and read better experience, I'll continue to do what I know.

Good idea. I have currently a little project on my bench I`ll use some of the paste for (a small "2001" astronaut), I can easily make some pics and a short description.

[onezero]

To answer the original question:

The most common reason for the Aves not setting up rock hard is the proportions of A:B are off. In my experience, they gotta be waaaay off, especially if you are using a big bunch. I have also had issues if I only use very small amounts --- like trying to mix up something the size of a pea. I've not had the stuff go bad, even with a tub that took 3 years to empty. The B part tends to get stiff and hard to work over time - I'll take a glob of that out and knead it well first, then mix with the gray stuff.

If it's clogging to the point you can't get it out of the paper, it hasn't fully cured. Even rock hard, I've found it will clob more than solvent putties (like Bondo or Squadron) but wet sanding, and frequent rinsing of the paper, makes that manageable.

The trick, as Pat said earlier, is to work it/smooth it as much as possible beforehand and thus minimize the sanding needed.