"Klean Clay" for mold making?
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"Klean Clay" for mold making?
In the past I have heard about this Klean Clay, that was safe to use in microwave's to warm and soften up for setting up for molds without blowing the microwave
I now need some more clay for some bigger molds and was wondering if the stuff being sold here is the right stuff to get?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Klean-Klay-Non-Dryi ... 0076518572
I now need some more clay for some bigger molds and was wondering if the stuff being sold here is the right stuff to get?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Klean-Klay-Non-Dryi ... 0076518572
Chris,
Odyssey Slipways
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I use plain old ( inexpensive ) WED clay for my beds...tin cure silicone ( mold max series ) Loves the moisture in it and cure a bit quicker.
It's also MUCH easyer to clean off the master!
Lay the stuff down quick and wait a bit for it to firm up...then tool it up to the master for a nice clean part line.
I found Kleen Clay to be a bit tough to work into small areas and it's firmness often made me feel that I was close to breaking the master when I was pushing it into place. It's also wicked sticky and tough to remove (unless you use something like Mineral Spirits )
OOPs. let out another trick....
Give it a try...you'll like it!
Modelnutz
( How can you trust a shipping company that puts UPS ( oops ) on it's trucks? )
It's also MUCH easyer to clean off the master!
Lay the stuff down quick and wait a bit for it to firm up...then tool it up to the master for a nice clean part line.
I found Kleen Clay to be a bit tough to work into small areas and it's firmness often made me feel that I was close to breaking the master when I was pushing it into place. It's also wicked sticky and tough to remove (unless you use something like Mineral Spirits )
OOPs. let out another trick....
Give it a try...you'll like it!
Modelnutz
( How can you trust a shipping company that puts UPS ( oops ) on it's trucks? )
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If you have a Hobby Lobby or Michaels in your area, it would be a bit cheaper to pick up some non-drying plastalina / modeling clay. I use a brand called "Van Aken," www.vanaken.com, and I think it was only about three bucks for a pound the last time I got it. I re-use most of my clay so I don't buy it very often. When shopping for clay, check the label; if it lists sulfur as an ingredient, don't use it for RTV.
<i>Fireball Modelworks</i>
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While I'm thinking about it,
Has anyone tried actually melting modeling clay (it says it melts at 150F) and pouring into a mold form to make the first half of a two-part mold? I've always wanted to try it but have been too chicken. The master would have to be something that could withstand 150F, obviously. It seams you could get a razor-sharp parting line in less time than working the clay to an edge.
Has anyone tried actually melting modeling clay (it says it melts at 150F) and pouring into a mold form to make the first half of a two-part mold? I've always wanted to try it but have been too chicken. The master would have to be something that could withstand 150F, obviously. It seams you could get a razor-sharp parting line in less time than working the clay to an edge.
<i>Fireball Modelworks</i>
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is it micro-wave save to warm up?
Chris,
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The Van Aken brand, yes it is. 30 sec on high gets it good & soft.OdysseySlipways wrote:is it micro-wave save to warm up?
<i>Fireball Modelworks</i>
I've used Flex Wax to make one small mold and it worked pretty well. I think I could make 5 or more copies before the wax mold becomes unusable. It's reusable,too (just remelt). Make sure it's dry when remelting, or you'll get water trapped in the wax.
It's not really very flexible, but enough to release a simple resin part without destroying the mold. It would be pretty useful for making a 2 part mold - pour the flex wax into the mold box, put the master in and hold it until it sets (as long as the master can take the heat) then pour the rubber over the exposed half.
When the rubber's set, remove the flex wax and make a mold of the other half.
Frank
It's not really very flexible, but enough to release a simple resin part without destroying the mold. It would be pretty useful for making a 2 part mold - pour the flex wax into the mold box, put the master in and hold it until it sets (as long as the master can take the heat) then pour the rubber over the exposed half.
When the rubber's set, remove the flex wax and make a mold of the other half.
Frank
No, but it does have water and some petroleum products in it.haywire wrote:Does PLay Doh have sulphur in it?
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Melting & pouring a clay bedding
Okay, I just had to try this today after thinking about it. I stuck a little resin part into a small blob of clay inside a mold box and then poured some molten Van Aken white clay into the box to make the bedding. BTW, I melted the clay in my wife's favorite little iron skillet, which I lined with aluminum foil. The result was actually pretty decent. The resin seemed to take the heat okay and when the clay cooled, it made a nice smooth bed with a clean parting line on the part. Now the not-so-good: The molten clay really sticks to the mold form and the master. It would be very difficult to clean all the clay off the master with removing it from the mold, which we don't want to do when making a two-part mold. Maybe if I had let the clay cool way down before monkeying with it (like 24 hours to simulate a rubber cure time), then it may have been easier to remove.
I've actually tried something like this before after reading a tutorial on the net, but it used alginate instead of molten clay. I could never mix my alginate smooth enough to work, though. That's another story.
The Flex Wax bedding sounds like a good idea; I'll have to check into that.
I've actually tried something like this before after reading a tutorial on the net, but it used alginate instead of molten clay. I could never mix my alginate smooth enough to work, though. That's another story.
The Flex Wax bedding sounds like a good idea; I'll have to check into that.
<i>Fireball Modelworks</i>
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ya, i've noticed that when i warm up my clay just a tad too much, it sticks to my rolling pin (12" long 2" pvc pipe).
And when using a new block of clay, it's best to rap it in some saran wrap of something clear and set it on the dash board of the car and let it warm up in the sun and try to mead it then. then warm it up for it's first time, or it will crumble into a sticky mess - at least that's what has happened to me in the past.
And when using a new block of clay, it's best to rap it in some saran wrap of something clear and set it on the dash board of the car and let it warm up in the sun and try to mead it then. then warm it up for it's first time, or it will crumble into a sticky mess - at least that's what has happened to me in the past.
Chris,
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Has anyone used modeling clay for molding ? I was thinking of casting a couple of bussard domes for my 1/2500 E in clear resin (adding a little amber die to color it) using the original domes to make a negatibve in modeling clay. Would the resin react with the clay in any way ? Needless to say, this is not meant to be a reuseable mold. Just looking for a down and dirty way to cast these little bussards.
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as far as i know, resin doesn't react well to dampness, and i know clay is moist, so i would think it wouldn't mix to well.
Chris,
Odyssey Slipways
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