Can anything be done besides stripping the model and starting over???
-Leelan
Orange-peel paint job :(
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modelnut
Orange-peel paint job :(
I have seen these before but this is the first time it has happened to me. I apply several thin coats of spray-paint (cursed rattle can!) and, when the model is completely covered at last, the paint finish looks like the pebbly skin of an orange!
Can anything be done besides stripping the model and starting over???
-Leelan
Can anything be done besides stripping the model and starting over???
-Leelan
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TREKKRIFFIC
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How full is the rattle can ? Could be the paint coming out in tiny droplets rather than a fine spray like you should get with a full can. Or the tip could be partly clogged from previous use. You shook it up good right ? Those are my thoughts.
"Well--we'll be safe for now--thank goodness we're in a bowling alley--"
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modelnut
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TREKKRIFFIC
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CaptainHawk1
Re: Orange-peel paint job :(
Did you use a primer? I had this happen when I didn't let a primer cure long enough.modelnut wrote:I have seen these before but this is the first time it has happened to me. I apply several thin coats of spray-paint (cursed rattle can!) and, when the model is completely covered at last, the paint finish looks like the pebbly skin of an orange!
Can anything be done besides stripping the model and starting over???
-Leelan
Sand it down, paint again. Repeat as necessary.
-Shawn
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TREKKRIFFIC
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Re: Orange-peel paint job :(
Yeah. I always try and give primer a full week to cure. I agree that Modelnut's best bet is to sand her down and repaint.CaptainHawk1 wrote:Did you use a primer? I had this happen when I didn't let a primer cure long enough.modelnut wrote:I have seen these before but this is the first time it has happened to me. I apply several thin coats of spray-paint (cursed rattle can!) and, when the model is completely covered at last, the paint finish looks like the pebbly skin of an orange!
Can anything be done besides stripping the model and starting over???
-Leelan
Sand it down, paint again. Repeat as necessary.
-Shawn
"Well--we'll be safe for now--thank goodness we're in a bowling alley--"
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CaptainHawk1
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modelnut
I followed the directions on the can. It said to wait twenty minutes between coats and dry to the touch in one hour. Same for the primer.
BTW it was Krylon Flourescent Orange over Krylon White Primer. I was taking a shortcut since my airbrush is packed away.
Since there are so many nooks-and-crannies that the paint has and hasn't gotten into, I think I will strip it and start over.
I will brush paint over white primer this time. If I thin the paint and add a drop of dishsoap there will be no brush strokes. It will just take longer than spraypainting.
The model I am working on is an anime kit I bought on evilbay maybe twenty years ago before I knew about recasts.
It is a crappy kit made with that crappy resin so prevalent in old recasts. Even if I get the paint job perfect it won't look perfect once it's done. But the character, Ranma-chan, is from an old series that you can't get models of anymore.
Here is the art that inspired the kit: http://www.yale.edu/anime/imgarchive/ra ... a-chan.gif
Here is one version of the kit finished: http://www.gremlins.com/garage/galleryV ... upUid=2378
-Leelan
BTW it was Krylon Flourescent Orange over Krylon White Primer. I was taking a shortcut since my airbrush is packed away.
Since there are so many nooks-and-crannies that the paint has and hasn't gotten into, I think I will strip it and start over.
I will brush paint over white primer this time. If I thin the paint and add a drop of dishsoap there will be no brush strokes. It will just take longer than spraypainting.
The model I am working on is an anime kit I bought on evilbay maybe twenty years ago before I knew about recasts.
It is a crappy kit made with that crappy resin so prevalent in old recasts. Even if I get the paint job perfect it won't look perfect once it's done. But the character, Ranma-chan, is from an old series that you can't get models of anymore. Here is the art that inspired the kit: http://www.yale.edu/anime/imgarchive/ra ... a-chan.gif
Here is one version of the kit finished: http://www.gremlins.com/garage/galleryV ... upUid=2378
-Leelan
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CaptainHawk1
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CaptainHawk1
When you use Krylon or Rustoleum or other non-hobby paints, do not trust the can. Give yourself more time than what it says. What Would recommend though for a good non-hobby paint is Duplicolor Gray Primer which you can get at Pep Boys, Wal Mart Auto Zone, just about anywhere where they sell auto paints. I've used it and never had a problem with it.modelnut wrote:I followed the directions on the can. It said to wait twenty minutes between coats and dry to the touch in one hour. Same for the primer.
BTW it was Krylon Flourescent Orange over Krylon White Primer. I was taking a shortcut since my airbrush is packed away.
Since there are so many nooks-and-crannies that the paint has and hasn't gotten into, I think I will strip it and start over.
I will brush paint over white primer this time. If I thin the paint and add a drop of dishsoap there will be no brush strokes. It will just take longer than spraypainting.
The model I am working on is an anime kit I bought on evilbay maybe twenty years ago before I knew about recasts.
Here is the art that inspired the kit: http://www.yale.edu/anime/imgarchive/ra ... a-chan.gif
Here is one version of the kit finished: http://www.gremlins.com/garage/galleryV ... upUid=2378
-Leelan
-Shawn
Krylon is great stuff. Truly fantastic paint. I use it all the time, but I have a few tips for you.
The primer needs a week to really dry properly. Once it does, it is one of the best primers ever. But it does take its time on plastics.
Secondly, as of last year, Krylon has its new line of H2O paints, which unlike their old lacquers, are latex paints. This neither helps with the drying of the primer once applied, but I'm not sure it's even compatible with the primer (though I do not see any information saying it is not). I would stay away from the H2O's.
The one and only time I ever got "orange peel" from Krylon was when the can was not shaken properly and held at the wrong angle; some of the thinner/compression agent shot out and created approximately 1mm diameter pits.
The primer needs a week to really dry properly. Once it does, it is one of the best primers ever. But it does take its time on plastics.
Secondly, as of last year, Krylon has its new line of H2O paints, which unlike their old lacquers, are latex paints. This neither helps with the drying of the primer once applied, but I'm not sure it's even compatible with the primer (though I do not see any information saying it is not). I would stay away from the H2O's.
The one and only time I ever got "orange peel" from Krylon was when the can was not shaken properly and held at the wrong angle; some of the thinner/compression agent shot out and created approximately 1mm diameter pits.
Depending on how thick (or thin) you applied the paint, you could try a 1000 or 2000 grit paper to work the orange peel out of the surface. I've experienced the same thing you have, usually with me it's rushing and putting on too much paint too fast.
Anyway, sanding it down with a fine paper should work.
j
Anyway, sanding it down with a fine paper should work.
j
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CaptainHawk1
I agree and for basic colors I won't even buy hobby paints anymore.suwalski wrote:Krylon is great stuff. Truly fantastic paint. I use it all the time, but I have a few tips for you.
The primer needs a week to really dry properly. Once it does, it is one of the best primers ever. But it does take its time on plastics.
Secondly, as of last year, Krylon has its new line of H2O paints, which unlike their old lacquers, are latex paints. This neither helps with the drying of the primer once applied, but I'm not sure it's even compatible with the primer (though I do not see any information saying it is not). I would stay away from the H2O's.
The one and only time I ever got "orange peel" from Krylon was when the can was not shaken properly and held at the wrong angle; some of the thinner/compression agent shot out and created approximately 1mm diameter pits.
I would also like to recommend Rustoleum for plastics. I'm currently using it on the Ent B and I am very happy. It says that you don't need to prime the plastic, but that's simply a risk I will not take.
-Shawn
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TREKKRIFFIC
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Here's a link posted by PetarB in another thread regarding Future but it also discusses the root causes of orange-peel and what can be done about it. Very useful information IMHO:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
A common problem reported with Future is a condition referred to as “Orange Peelâ€. I want to first talk about the causes of “Orange Peel†which will, for the most part, indicate some solutions. “Orange Peel†is a dimpled surface, like the skin of an orange, resulting from Future droplets drying too much to level out and flow smoothly together (poor coalescence).
Root causes of “Orange Peel†are;
1. Improper flash or drying time causing subsequent coats to lose solvents to the dry coat.
2. Extreme shop temperature causing the droplets to lose more solvent and dry out before they can flow and level properly.
3. Improper gun adjustment and techniques.
4. Improper drying by gun fanning causing the paint droplets to dry out before they have a chance to flow together.
5. Improper drying time for previous coats of paint can result on “out-gassing†preventing the Future from leveling out.
With these causes in mind potential solutions become apparent.
1. Allow proper dry time for undercoats and topcoats.
2. Schedule painting to avoid temperature and humidity extremes.
3. Use proper gun adjustments, techniques, and air pressure.
4. Allow sufficient flash time. Do not dry by fanning.
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
A common problem reported with Future is a condition referred to as “Orange Peelâ€. I want to first talk about the causes of “Orange Peel†which will, for the most part, indicate some solutions. “Orange Peel†is a dimpled surface, like the skin of an orange, resulting from Future droplets drying too much to level out and flow smoothly together (poor coalescence).
Root causes of “Orange Peel†are;
1. Improper flash or drying time causing subsequent coats to lose solvents to the dry coat.
2. Extreme shop temperature causing the droplets to lose more solvent and dry out before they can flow and level properly.
3. Improper gun adjustment and techniques.
4. Improper drying by gun fanning causing the paint droplets to dry out before they have a chance to flow together.
5. Improper drying time for previous coats of paint can result on “out-gassing†preventing the Future from leveling out.
With these causes in mind potential solutions become apparent.
1. Allow proper dry time for undercoats and topcoats.
2. Schedule painting to avoid temperature and humidity extremes.
3. Use proper gun adjustments, techniques, and air pressure.
4. Allow sufficient flash time. Do not dry by fanning.
"Well--we'll be safe for now--thank goodness we're in a bowling alley--"
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Stu Pidasso
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And NEVER NEVER NEVER put it on the stove and forget about it!DX-SFX wrote:Orange peel usually occurs due to the temperature being too cold or the paint mix too thick. Try putting the can in a bowl of warm water. This will help to thin the viscosity of the paint. Is it genuine orange peel or a bobbly finish?
I did. Not pretty.
Laughter is the best medicine, unless you have diarrhea...
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CaptainHawk1
BUMP!Stu Pidasso wrote:And NEVER NEVER NEVER put it on the stove and forget about it!DX-SFX wrote:Orange peel usually occurs due to the temperature being too cold or the paint mix too thick. Try putting the can in a bowl of warm water. This will help to thin the viscosity of the paint. Is it genuine orange peel or a bobbly finish?
I did. Not pretty.
-Shawn
The temperature of the can of rattle paint (well bottles too) most definately effects how it will perform and if you're like many folks maybe you leave your paint supplies wherever you shoot them? Sometimes that's wherever you have that's outside of your main living areas like a garage, basement, carport- whatever. Don't forget to bring your supplies back inside to keep them nice and warm. You'll still have to contend with issues like ambient air temperature and humidity but at least the material will be at it's best. 
Duck Dodgers of the 24th and a half century!
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TER-OR
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Here's a preview of a disaster article I need to write.
Semi-gloss Gunze-Sangyo gray paint.
Light Future Coat.
Gloss International Orange Testors Acryl paint.
Instant crackle finish.
Sand off orange.
Apply Flat White GS paint.
Re-apply orange, intant crackle.
Meanwhile, orange over flat gray GS paint with no Future sealant coat - perfect.
Sand off orange and white down to primer.
Re-apply flat white.
Spray flat Tamiya orange (mixed yellow and red)
Fine.
Lesson re-learned: gloss over gloss with Testors Acryl or PolyScale = disaster.
Semi-gloss Gunze-Sangyo gray paint.
Light Future Coat.
Gloss International Orange Testors Acryl paint.
Instant crackle finish.
Sand off orange.
Apply Flat White GS paint.
Re-apply orange, intant crackle.
Meanwhile, orange over flat gray GS paint with no Future sealant coat - perfect.
Sand off orange and white down to primer.
Re-apply flat white.
Spray flat Tamiya orange (mixed yellow and red)
Fine.
Lesson re-learned: gloss over gloss with Testors Acryl or PolyScale = disaster.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
DX-SFX wrote:Orange peel usually occurs due to the temperature being too cold or the paint mix too thick. Try putting the can in a bowl of warm water. This will help to thin the viscosity of the paint. Is it genuine orange peel or a bobbly finish?
agreed it can also happen from the can being too far from your subject.....the paint actually begins to dry before it hits the subject....
A good indication of it being to far is not only the orange peel "look" but the paint almost feels as if it is a powder, it almost rubs off...
Ashton