Applying Dullcote.

[suwalski]

Hello,

I'm slowly getting to the dullcote stage, and I would like to clarify a few things.

1) Is Testor's dullcote the way to go, or is there something better?
2) Do you apply a thick coat, or just mist it on?

Regarding point 2, in the past, when I did it thick, it yellowed in some areas, and when I did it thin, it came out splotchy or rough.

I'm very tempted to just use something from a spray can, but I don't know how it will react with Future in short or long terms.

[TREKKRIFFIC]

I use Testor's dullcote from a spray can all the time over future. Wait a day for the future to get really dry before applying 3-4 layers of dullcote. I usually wait 5-10 minutes between coats. Future is very shiny so if you only apply a few coats of dullcote you'll end up with a semi-gloss finish. More coats will give more of a flat matte finish.

[Romulan Spy]

Dullcote from a spraycan is real simple, and leaves a dead flat finish. The trick is to spray it on in light dusty coats. Wait a few minutes between each coat, and slowly build up the finish.

[TER-OR]

I have seen lacquer-based dullcoat from the can damage acrylic paint.

I like PolyScale's acrylic dullcoat. It can be airbrushed very thin - just till you see the sheen change. Don't apply so thick you can see a layer. It's also dead flat with one or two applications.

[SpaceDuck]

I have seen lacquer-based dullcoat from the can damage acrylic paint.

I like PolyScale's acrylic dullcoat. It can be airbrushed very thin - just till you see the sheen change. Don't apply so thick you can see a layer. It's also dead flat with one or two applications.

While I really like the simplicity and predictability of Testor's Clearcoat in a can, I like semi-gloss, the lacquer will on occassion cause some "thin" decals to melt! It's only happened to me with decals made by 'Micro-Scale' when they're silver in color (they just "bled" and ran) but if and when it does, what a headache. I haven't noticed it on other brand decals but then again it was a specific set that had lotsa silver in it that it occured with?

Just an FYI in case you come up against this.

[Lt. Z0mBe]

I decant Krylon matte into aribrush bottles, thin with lacquer thinner a little, and apply with an airbrush at around 15 or 20 PSI.

I don't trust Dullcote. I have been burned too many times by it. Also, it yellows over time - at least it has for my models (no, they have not been exposed to sunlight ).

I hope this helps.

Kenny

[jafo]

ive learned that it does go bad, ie it has a shelf life. use fresh.

[Antenociti]

Hello,

I'm slowly getting to the dullcote stage, and I would like to clarify a few things.

1) Is Testor's dullcote the way to go, or is there something better?
2) Do you apply a thick coat, or just mist it on?

Regarding point 2, in the past, when I did it thick, it yellowed in some areas, and when I did it thin, it came out splotchy or rough.

I'm very tempted to just use something from a spray can, but I don't know how it will react with Future in short or long terms.

shake well, the matting agent is thick and gloopy so give it 2 mins shake and dont let it settle.

mist it on from 18 inches or so away. never spray heavily or too close.

its a lacquer so avoid decals and be wary around metallics (the lacquer reacts with some acrylic mediums you see) and in general its best to apply a water-based gloss or satin varnish first.

Never had it yellow, ever. Never had it reported to yellow either (and we sell a couple of thousand cans of it a year).

Most common mistake with dullcote are not shaking the can well enough, not keeping it mixed, spraying too much (will go satin/gloss) or...

not shaking the can well enough on first use but getting away with it due to the volume of matt agent in the can - then as the can is used up over time the amount of matt agent to carrier decreases and the dullcote goes from matte to satin - which is generally why people think it has a limited shelf life - but it doesn't. Have used 3 year old and 5 year old spray cans without any problems at all.

Its a great product, but like every other aerosol out there you will get the odd duff batch, the odd cockup and the odd bad report. Mostly those are down to user-error but sometimes its just a duff batch.

Happens with every 'varnish' out there and is especially true of aerosols due to their temperamental nature.

and of course not really understanding the difference between a water or spirit based varnish and a lacquer based in cellulose.

[Ewok1105]

I've been going a little crazy trying to get the perfect flat finish as well.

I may be way too picky, but at the moment I am not satisfied with either the Testors or Krylon finishes from the spray cans AT ALL.

But I am very pleased with the gloss results from using Future, especially with the way it works out of my airbrush. I think we all agree how great that stuff is.

So just now I found this website about model railroading and this page about using Future for both the initial gloss coat and then adding Tamiya's flat base to the Future to create a flat coat.

http://www.ndrr.com/rmr_faq/Models/Future-Floor-Wax.htm

Has anyone else heard of or tried this?

And if so does anyone have any idea just how much flat base should be added to the future to make that dead flat finish?

[davehal9000]

I use it quite a bit but have had horrible experiences with it due to humidity. I did up an old F-15E with the green camo which I thought turned out great. Hit it with Dullcoat and the plane turned white! Been leary of it ever since. I still use it, but I'm always looking for more reliable options.

[MillenniumFalsehood]

One thing I must stress is NEVER use dull-cote over AMT decals. The stuff makes their decals curl up and wrinkle at the edges, even with decal set. make sure you brush them over with Future before you apply them.