Hi guys, I have a hairline - and I mean hairline gap over abour half an inch on a rounded area and the normal putty+sanding is NOT an option, due to the delicate nature of the immediate vicinity. Any advice? Im thinking something like a glue or something that would go in via capillary action... but Im to scared to experiment on the item in question.
Before I start experimenting on something else, Im wondering if anyone has any advice?
Hairline gap, no room for sanding
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Pat Amaral
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Can you just gently squeeze the gap closed after touching it with some "hot" cement like tenax or Tamiya liquid styrene cement? Hold it tightly closed for a while until it's locked down permanently and that should do it.
If you can't just squeeze it closed, then try this...
Mix up a small amount of Aves Apoxy Sculpt as per directions. Have some isopropyl alcohol handy. Take a small amount of the Aves and just trowel it into the gap (I use a dental tool for this). Go back over the area with the tool (dipped in the alcohol) to smooth out the joint. Once you're happy with how it looks, clean the area outside of the joint itself with a swab dipped in the alcohol. You can do this with water if you don't have the alcohol but I find the alcohol provides a little better control.
Five minutes and you're done!
Cheers,
If you can't just squeeze it closed, then try this...
Mix up a small amount of Aves Apoxy Sculpt as per directions. Have some isopropyl alcohol handy. Take a small amount of the Aves and just trowel it into the gap (I use a dental tool for this). Go back over the area with the tool (dipped in the alcohol) to smooth out the joint. Once you're happy with how it looks, clean the area outside of the joint itself with a swab dipped in the alcohol. You can do this with water if you don't have the alcohol but I find the alcohol provides a little better control.
Five minutes and you're done!
Cheers,
Pat A.
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Styrofoam_Guy
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when i fill these sorts of areas on my masters, i do the following (that will not require sanding);
1) take flat piece of styrene rod (1/4inch wide, .06 thick) and file one end down to resemble a chisel point that angles to one side - ie. the end is not square, but angled slightly.
2) roll up some Magic Sculp into a long strip (like you're making a bead weld).
3) repeatedly scrape small amounts of putty onto the flat side of the styrene knife and apply along the gap, jamming it inside.
4) clean the flat side of the knife then lube up with water, spit or whatever.
5) slide the knife along the join to even out the putty, clearing away any excess. stay lubed and keep the knife flush/perpendicular with one of the surfaces.
guaranteed no sanding required. guaranteed clean finish.
styrene provides enough flex to let you apply enough downward force during (5), without hurting the master - like you might see if you used a stainless knife.
f
1) take flat piece of styrene rod (1/4inch wide, .06 thick) and file one end down to resemble a chisel point that angles to one side - ie. the end is not square, but angled slightly.
2) roll up some Magic Sculp into a long strip (like you're making a bead weld).
3) repeatedly scrape small amounts of putty onto the flat side of the styrene knife and apply along the gap, jamming it inside.
4) clean the flat side of the knife then lube up with water, spit or whatever.
5) slide the knife along the join to even out the putty, clearing away any excess. stay lubed and keep the knife flush/perpendicular with one of the surfaces.
guaranteed no sanding required. guaranteed clean finish.
styrene provides enough flex to let you apply enough downward force during (5), without hurting the master - like you might see if you used a stainless knife.
f
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Lt. Z0mBe
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Wise words, Pat of Amaral!Pat Amaral wrote:Can you just gently squeeze the gap closed after touching it with some "hot" cement like tenax or Tamiya liquid styrene cement? Hold it tightly closed for a while until it's locked down permanently and that should do it.
If you can't just squeeze it closed, then try this...
Mix up a small amount of Aves Apoxy Sculpt as per directions. Have some isopropyl alcohol handy. Take a small amount of the Aves and just trowel it into the gap (I use a dental tool for this). Go back over the area with the tool (dipped in the alcohol) to smooth out the joint. Once you're happy with how it looks, clean the area outside of the joint itself with a swab dipped in the alcohol. You can do this with water if you don't have the alcohol but I find the alcohol provides a little better control.
Five minutes and you're done!
Cheers,
"Knead ye Aves with the Ether of grapewine to set flush and polished thy seams. Aves humbles the proudest seams with the stroke of thy hand and brush"
~ Finishes 14:19
Kenny
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TER-OR
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I really like the Gunze-Sangyo Mr. Surfacer for these applications. Don't remove so much you see the gap, but leave a continuous area. Best way is to do an entire panel or the like.
You can remove with alcohol and a swab or a fine sanding stick via wetsanding.
You can remove with alcohol and a swab or a fine sanding stick via wetsanding.
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Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati