Trying a neat trick for scorch marks...
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Trying a neat trick for scorch marks...
I'm trying a new trick for scorch marks on my Starfury project, I want to make some scorch marks next to a blown out panel and I'm trying so simulate scorch marks blowing out around torn metal, leaving exposed metal.
I'm trying something I read in FSM a while ago: putting table salt paste on the model, letting it try, painting over it, then washing it off.
Anyone tried this?
Thanks,
-John C.
I'm trying something I read in FSM a while ago: putting table salt paste on the model, letting it try, painting over it, then washing it off.
Anyone tried this?
Thanks,
-John C.
That Madman Who Lit Up Deep Space Nine
Yeah, it works really good on the skirt of boba fett's slave 1. But I dont know if I'd use it for scorch marks. Let us know how it turns out though
-Parker
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Hey, it works pretty good!
Trick was to put aluminum metalizer down first, then salt, let dry, then airbrush flat black over the whole bit.
Wash off the salt and you get scorched, burnt paint thats got exposed metal underneath.
Mr. Badwrench is right about the coarse grain, next time I might grind it finer if I want more detail.
I'll post some more pics soon.
-JC.
Trick was to put aluminum metalizer down first, then salt, let dry, then airbrush flat black over the whole bit.
Wash off the salt and you get scorched, burnt paint thats got exposed metal underneath.
Mr. Badwrench is right about the coarse grain, next time I might grind it finer if I want more detail.
I'll post some more pics soon.
-JC.
That Madman Who Lit Up Deep Space Nine
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Cool. That's a neat trick !Madman Lighting wrote:Hey, it works pretty good!
Trick was to put aluminum metalizer down first, then salt, let dry, then airbrush flat black over the whole bit.
Wash off the salt and you get scorched, burnt paint thats got exposed metal underneath.
Mr. Badwrench is right about the coarse grain, next time I might grind it finer if I want more detail.
I'll post some more pics soon.
-JC.
"Well--we'll be safe for now--thank goodness we're in a bowling alley--"
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I use hot torched pins and bits of wire for this. It does the job well on a finished, fully painted model without much touch up but for a weak black wash.Madman Lighting wrote:Starmann wrote:Imagine a "near miss" or glancing blow with a blaster. It scorches paint enough so there's a big scorch mark but the center got so hot the paint peeled off, exposing metal underneath.I've used it for the purpose of chipping but not scorching?
Looking forward to your photos. If there's a way I can do this easily without risk of 2nd degree burns, I'm all for it.
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I once used those snap pops (those little white wads of explosives, you throw them at your wife-I mean, the ground and POP!) to simulate a small strike or scorch mark. I held the snap pop against the model, and smashed it with a butterknife until it popped.
So me, trying to be tolerant of everybody's situations, went to a feminist picnic. Things fell apart fairly quickly after nobody made any sandwiches.
pencil and cottonswabs
For scorch marks and smaller impacts on starships, I have been useing the "lead" from pencils and a cotton swab.
remove the core of the pencil and grind it to a fine powder with some sandpaper.
Apply a some where the scorch marks have to be and then take a cotton swab dipped in white spirits (think that's what you yanks call it, alcohol) and draw the scorch marks.
You can see it on this Naboo N1 fighter, around the engine exhausts and behind the laser cannons
http://www.ipms.dk/DM2003/IMAGES/K/K2.jpg
remove the core of the pencil and grind it to a fine powder with some sandpaper.
Apply a some where the scorch marks have to be and then take a cotton swab dipped in white spirits (think that's what you yanks call it, alcohol) and draw the scorch marks.
You can see it on this Naboo N1 fighter, around the engine exhausts and behind the laser cannons
http://www.ipms.dk/DM2003/IMAGES/K/K2.jpg