Has anyone ever used the Floquil - Light grey primer out of the rattle can before?
I have recently used the Floquil on Capt. cardboard's high quality resin and I have found it to be slightly tacky in a good dry weather situation....after it dried 24 hrs I wet sanded it down just a tad and after handling it a few seconds I found a finger print.
So far I have never had problems using Rust-Oleum grey Automotive primer....it has a slightly rougher finish but it dries fast with no problems.
Just in case anyone asks: Why rattle at all??.....cuz its faster and I do not have a permanent paint both set up 24 7 so its not convenient to always air brush.
What do you think...and do you use Auto primers out of the can?
Thanks!
Problem with Floquil grey PRIMER?
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
Problem with Floquil grey PRIMER?
How do you know if I'm not a Cylon and I havn't seen you at any of the meetings?
Hey Troy, I can't say as I've used the Floquil, but I've had good luck with both the Rust-Oleum and Dupli-Color automotive primers. In my experience, the Rust-Oleum is the slightly faster drying of the two, but the Dupli-Color gives a somewhat smoother surface.
Like you, I use the primers right out of the can, as I'm going to be sanding the primer down afterwards anyway. I just have to be careful not to put it on thick enough so as to obscure any panel lines. A few times I've gone back and scribed them in deeper after priming, but usually I can manage to avoid that, even when spraying my primer straight from the rattle can.
-- Jeff (no, the *other* Jeff)
Like you, I use the primers right out of the can, as I'm going to be sanding the primer down afterwards anyway. I just have to be careful not to put it on thick enough so as to obscure any panel lines. A few times I've gone back and scribed them in deeper after priming, but usually I can manage to avoid that, even when spraying my primer straight from the rattle can.
-- Jeff (no, the *other* Jeff)
You read it -- you can't unread it!
ahhh jeeze mom...I did my homework....
1.Solvent Based Enamel. A coating that cures by a process known as Polymerization which generally takes an hour or more to reach a dry to touch point and several days to fully cure. Solvent based enamels may or may not attack plastics, generally take a longer length of time to reach "dry to touch" and several days to completely cure. Examples are Floquil ® RR Colors, & Scalecoat ® RR Colors which generally use strong solvents such as Xylol or Toluol and should not be used on plastics without some form of barrier coating, and Testors ® & Pactra ® enamels which mainly use mineral spirits as a solvent.
See...can I go to the Hobby shop now?
I guess I'll give it a couple days and see how it feels....the Floquil is a MUCH smoother finish, so if its just a matter of waiting 3 or 4 days... its worth it depending on the final texture I need.
1.Solvent Based Enamel. A coating that cures by a process known as Polymerization which generally takes an hour or more to reach a dry to touch point and several days to fully cure. Solvent based enamels may or may not attack plastics, generally take a longer length of time to reach "dry to touch" and several days to completely cure. Examples are Floquil ® RR Colors, & Scalecoat ® RR Colors which generally use strong solvents such as Xylol or Toluol and should not be used on plastics without some form of barrier coating, and Testors ® & Pactra ® enamels which mainly use mineral spirits as a solvent.
See...can I go to the Hobby shop now?
I guess I'll give it a couple days and see how it feels....the Floquil is a MUCH smoother finish, so if its just a matter of waiting 3 or 4 days... its worth it depending on the final texture I need.
How do you know if I'm not a Cylon and I havn't seen you at any of the meetings?