Basics. Airbrushing.

Kenny · Post by **Kenny** » Mon Apr 02, 2007 12:57 am

Can you all recommend the best source for international airbrush orders? (looking at badger 360)

Found Dixie art supplies which looked great but they want to charge $100 us for postage

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:34 am

BearAir
DickBlick
Airbrush Depot
Airbrush Store

Depending on what you're looking for.

Kenny · Post by **Kenny** » Tue Apr 03, 2007 1:38 am

Depending on what you're looking for.

That's the shizzel!

I will check them all out when I finally have time.
I'm after (probably) a badger 360 with good international freight rates[/quote]

Atticus · Post by **Atticus** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 12:55 pm

Hey, gang:

I pre-ordered a couple of the FM Y-wing kits, and to mark the occasion, I'm considering upgrading my airbrush setup from the cheapie Aztec compressor/airbrush I used for the FM Falcon, to something of higher quality.

The caveats here are that I'm still an airbrushing novice and I don't do a lot of modeling (maybe one kit a year), so it doesn't make sense for me to invest thousands of dollars on a top-of-the-line compressor/brush.

My budget is a few hundred dollars (let's call it under $500). My rationale is that even if I don't build another kit after completing the Y and never airbrush again, it's always good to have compressor around for, um, inflating bike tires, right...? At least that's what I can tell the wife.

So, like, an inexpensive compressor from Harbor Freight, and, like, a Badger 360? Or something similar?

Thanks!

Atticus

kosherbacon · Post by **kosherbacon** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 9:06 pm

I have a badger Crescendo 175 and its kind of gunked up. I was wondering the best way to remove all the paint from inside of it. I know there are certain ones you can't soak because of O-rings and whatnot. So if someone could give some advice on a good way to remove all that garbage without screwing it up that would be great.
thanks

Post by **TER-OR** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:26 pm

If it's acrylic, soak in alcohol to start. If enamel, use lacquer thinner. And you can use lacquer thinner with acrylic too. It shouldn't hurt things, but don't leave it soaking for too long. Try it after an hour or so, then again every so often.

Cleaning with cotton swabs and paper towels with that thinner is a good first start, after you can open things up. Then completely dismantle it and clean everywhere.

kosherbacon · Post by **kosherbacon** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 3:20 pm

Thanks. I'll have to give that a try. Maybe over the weekend........
Hopefully I'll have enough time.
thanks again

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Fri Oct 19, 2007 10:01 pm

Now here is an airbrush newbie question... (like I don't ask enough of them)

Just got some ab lube for my ab (revolution CR) and was wondering... where does one drip the lube? Down the trigger? In the cup?

How often are you suppose to lube it up?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Oct 21, 2007 11:16 am

Trigger. Its for lubing the back end of the needle and the valve.

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Oct 21, 2007 9:57 pm

Don't drip the lube. Remove the trigger and needle. Put some lube on a paper towel, and coat a small amount on the aft half of the needle and the trigger itself. Dripping the lube may cause you problems if it gets somewhere it shouldn't be.

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 6:50 am

Remove the trigger and needle.

Ok, needle... I can do that, but the trigger... never did that before!

Hope I can put it back together!

Thanks

kosherbacon · Post by **kosherbacon** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 3:30 pm

On the subject of lube for your airbrush.
Does it matter what you use?
Is there a specific kind?

Post by **TER-OR** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 9:51 pm

I got some with an airbrushing kit. It's some sort of thin water-soluble (I think) lube. It says it's not silicone. A brand name is Needle Juice.

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 12:25 am

Iwata has Super Lube...

Dan

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 5:22 pm

After doing a base coat, I cleaned my AB and I was just messing around with my Iwata Revolution and noticed something funny.

After about two to three minutes of continuing spraying (no paint, just blasting it while I was thinking about my next move on this kit) water started to come out of it.

It stopped after a minute or two, but I never noticed that before.

Now the compressor I have is the Iwata Smart Jet Pro which comes with a moisture trap.

So I figured that maybe the trap was full so I releaved the plug and some water came out but when I tried the AB again... the same thing happened again after a few minutes.

It did stop after a few seconds but that was weird.

Ok, so does this mean that I need to install another moisture trap along the line?

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 11:36 pm

starmanmm wrote:After doing a base coat, I cleaned my AB and I was just messing around with my Iwata Revolution and noticed something funny.

After about two to three minutes of continuing spraying (no paint, just blasting it while I was thinking about my next move on this kit) water started to come out of it. It stopped after a minute or two, but I never noticed that before.

Now the compressor I have is the Iwata Smart Jet Pro which comes with a moisture trap.

So I figured that maybe the trap was full so I releaved the plug and some water came out but when I tried the AB again... the same thing happened again after a few minutes.

It did stop after a few seconds but that was weird.

Ok, so does this mean that I need to install another moisture trap along the line?

Two thoughts:

First, was the moisture trap upright? Secondly I have heard of - never experienced - under very pressure that the velocity of air overwhelms the moisture trap. Is the trap mounted directly on the compressor, or is it in-line? The velocity of the air is significantly greater at the compressor than it is further down the line, meaning it "blows by" the trap. I would think you might try a larger trap if this becomes a problem.

Also, the simplest explanation is there could have been backflow into the line from a past cleaning.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 4:42 pm

Here is the site that shows what my compressor looks like.

http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/com ... o_info.jsp

As you can see it is up right.

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 12:04 am

I've had something similar happen, but it was with a bit of oil in the line after my trap. I installed one of the Iwata pistol grip filters, and haven't looked back since.

Dan

SJM · Post by **SJM** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 12:55 pm

Hi all,

Over the past couple of airbrush sessions, there as been a tiny paint clot (bloob) appearing on the top of the needle peice. So when you go and spray something the bloob getts bigger and bigger, and eventually you get little paint droplets on the model. It's not a big problem, I mean if it happens I just get a paper towel and dab it and the 'bloobual' goes away. Its just starting to annoy me now.

Any one know if im doing anthing wrong?

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:24 pm

If you are using acrylic paint... it is the nature of the beast.

Acrylic paint gathers on the tip as you spray. I use a micro brush dipped in W&N brush cleaner and wipe the tip clear after a minute or two of using the AB. It is a process that I have to do to keep the tip clear and is a bit of a pain but like I said... it is the nature of the paint.

SJM · Post by **SJM** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:38 pm

Cheers, that clears it up

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 8:03 pm

Actually, it doesn't.

99% of what I spray is acrylic and I've never had the issue. My old POS Paasche used to do it with thinned Testors enamels but only when I'd mixed the wrong needle with the wrong tip.

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:57 pm

Then I don't know what to tell ya... everyone else I know that spray acrylics has that problem and that is how we deal with it.

SJM · Post by **SJM** » Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:16 pm

Kylwell wrote:Actually, it doesn't.

99% of what I spray is acrylic and I've never had the issue. My old POS Paasche used to do it with thinned Testors enamels but only when I'd mixed the wrong needle with the wrong tip.

Righto,

Could it be that I hav'nt mixed the thinner in with the paint thoroughly enough? Im using the same tip the came with the airbrush, so I doubt its the wrong one.

As I said its not a big problem, I'd just like to know why my paints have started doing that.

On another note, is it possible to spray an ink wash through an airbrush? I think I've heard of the technique before. Info anyone?

Post by **TER-OR** » Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:21 pm

An ink wash? Like an ink-in-Future glaze?
Washes typically you remove some and keep the rest in recesses. Glazes you brush on and allow to well in recesses.

Airbrushing usually gives you thin, uniform coats - what you'd get with an ink would likely be a tinting effect.

apsilon · Post by **apsilon** » Mon Jan 07, 2008 11:45 pm

Not then I'm very experienced given I've only been at it for a couple of weeks but the only times I've had acrylic gather on the tip was when I tried too low a pressure and/or the paint wasn't thinned enough.

SJM · Post by **SJM** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:47 pm

TER-OR wrote:An ink wash? Like an ink-in-Future glaze?
Washes typically you remove some and keep the rest in recesses. Glazes you brush on and allow to well in recesses.

Airbrushing usually gives you thin, uniform coats - what you'd get with an ink would likely be a tinting effect.

Ok, thanks. Im not too sure what sort of wash it is, the only wash I've used is the Citadel brush on stuff. Is this suitable for running through an airbrush?

Post by **TER-OR** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 10:52 pm

While you can probably airbrush it, you won't get a wash. You'll get a thin coat of color. The airbrush isn't for washes or glazes. You need a hand-brush for that, to direct the concentration where you need. The airbrush is for uniform coats and variations thereof - like fading etc.

So do your airbrushing for color coats. Then details and washes, glazes etc, will be via hand. Citadel and Reaper diluted inks fit in the glaze category.

SJM · Post by **SJM** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:15 am

Thanks

Orion · Post by **Orion** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 7:47 am

So in my hurry to get to my first model, I probably airbrushed before I was really ready on a model. And while the paint was cured, back on the bench I gathered several good scratches and gouges in the acrylic paint. I was worried that when I went back over it with additional layers, it would be uneven. For the subsequent layers, I thinned the paint (apple barrel craft paint) with Future. I AB'd 3 layers with the Future mix, as opposed to the 5 with the original. The Future mix completely covered the scratches, and blended more than perfect with the rest of the paint, which needless to say impressed me. I was wondering if this was just an effect of acrylic paint in general, or if it had something to do with the Future that was mixed into it. Either way, I'm more than pleased with the results, but nice to know what caused it.

I also can't believe just how much strength that Future seems to give to the paint. I tried to scratch it after it dried enough for what would have brought paint off with paint without Future, and it wouldn't budge. This stuff if great. And a pleasant smell to boot.

Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Basics. Airbrushing.

Water from the AB

Re: Water from the AB