Howdy all,
I bought one of the Aves sampler packs from the SSM store. The sculpt worked wonders, I'm never going back to the various red & green putties.
Here's my trouble. I used the sculpt to feather in a large area where two parts join. The first result was pretty good, but there were some sculpting & sanding marks left behind. So I decided to try to use the paste for some "fine-tuning" of the thing. Oops.
The A-part of the paste was very dry, but I hadn't ever used it before and didn't know what to expect. I mixed it with the B part, and added a few drops of the safety solvent. It seemed more or less okay, though it seemed to have some tiny air bubbles in it, so I gave it a go. It was like thick honey, it was very sticky and didn't want to spread out, and the "bubbles" were apparently unmixed specks of the part A.
I've spent a couple of hours trying to undo the damage using my Dremel.
There was a thread not long ago about the Aves drying out. There was no real resolution, except hope that adding distilled water might work.
Should I discard/give up on the paste? I'd sure love to use it, but want something very thin that flows easily, which is what I thought I was getting. Does anybody out there have good ideas?
Thanks!
Jeff
Aves paste too dry
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Re: Aves paste too dry
Hi. I have had the same tub of Aves for over a year, and I have not experienced this. I do "knead" my part B once in a while, though (into a ball), and then I put it back in the tub with the lid on tight. I find it keeps it soft, flexible, and easier to use.jgoldader wrote:The A-part of the paste was very dry, but I hadn't ever used it before and didn't know what to expect. I mixed it with the B part, and added a few drops of the safety solvent. It seemed more or less okay, though it seemed to have some tiny air bubbles in it, so I gave it a go. It was like thick honey, it was very sticky and didn't want to spread out, and the "bubbles" were apparently unmixed specks of the part A.
I have never mixed mine with anything other than water... I am wondering if the solvent affected it, as I have never had it go as "gooey" as you describe. I do not often use much water to thin it either... I primarily mix the A/B parts and use it like that, as I tend to apply it thicker to the seams, and then wipe the excess off with a wet brush or sponge, and then when dry, I finish sand it.
Re: Aves paste too dry
Just so I'm clear, this was the paste, which is supposed to be rather thin. The sampler pack from SSM had the paste in little brown bottles, similar to the ones pills would come in at the pharmacy. One description of the paste I saw likened it to pancake batter, thin and able to flow. There was no way mine was going to achieve that state, and it was only a few weeks old. The solvent itself can not only clean the material off hands & tools, but also extends the working time, which I took to mean "keeps it thin." But you might be right about the solvent messing it up--I wonder now if the solvent is meant for the sculpting material and not the paste? I suppose I could try and mix a little with water and see what happens.abs1124 wrote:Hi. I have had the same tub of Aves for over a year, and I have not experienced this. I do "knead" my part B once in a while, though (into a ball), and then I put it back in the tub with the lid on tight. I find it keeps it soft, flexible, and easier to use.
I have never mixed mine with anything other than water... I am wondering if the solvent affected it, as I have never had it go as "gooey" as you describe. I do not often use much water to thin it either... I primarily mix the A/B parts and use it like that, as I tend to apply it thicker to the seams, and then wipe the excess off with a wet brush or sponge, and then when dry, I finish sand it.
Thanks,
Jeff
Re: Aves paste too dry
Hi. I'm sorry I missed that (the paste). My experience lies only with the two-part epoxy.jgoldader wrote:Just so I'm clear, this was the paste, which is supposed to be rather thin. The sampler pack from SSM had the paste in little brown bottles, similar to the ones pills would come in at the pharmacy. One description of the paste I saw likened it to pancake batter, thin and able to flow. There was no way mine was going to achieve that state, and it was only a few weeks old. The solvent itself can not only clean the material off hands & tools, but also extends the working time, which I took to mean "keeps it thin." But you might be right about the solvent messing it up--I wonder now if the solvent is meant for the sculpting material and not the paste? I suppose I could try and mix a little with water and see what happens.
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The last time my blessed Aves was a little dry, I dribbled a few drops of denatured alcohol on on top of it and sealed it up tight.
As an aside, I keep my Aves stuff in individual zippered bags. Part "A" putty in one bag, part "A" paste in one bag, etc... This is purely anectdotal observations on my part (never done any real experiment) but I think this has helped my stash's longevity.
Kenny
As an aside, I keep my Aves stuff in individual zippered bags. Part "A" putty in one bag, part "A" paste in one bag, etc... This is purely anectdotal observations on my part (never done any real experiment) but I think this has helped my stash's longevity.
Kenny
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I don't like the paste. When I need a thinner paste, I thin the Apoxie Sculpt with their thinner or alcohol. Allow it to sit half an hour or so, then work with it. Use brushes or better - the silicon shaping tools found on The Compleat Sculptor. Wipe excess with an alcohol-moistened paper towel. Final thin with water if you want. Allow to sit for about 2 hours, then use a moistened knife to add scribing. A curved knife can be "rolled" over the surface much easier than scribing with a cutting tool later.
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Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati