Still struggling with masking clear parts

Dukat, S.G. · Post by **Dukat, S.G.** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 3:20 pm

Gents,

I'm still having a devil of a time with my two Fine Molds TIEs. Everything's coming along great except the clear parts: the canopy and the egress hatch.

I've finally mastered getting these two pieces nice n' crystal clear; polishing and Future-dipping has worked wonders

Also on the plus side, I've found that, with a steady hand and a lot of patience, I can hand-paint the canopy satisfactorily. I'm not terribly worried about this part, though I'd prefer to mask and airbrush the next one I have to do.

That's the real problem I guess I'm facing: masking. I've tried the following, but failed, because:

*pro vinyl masks -- some overspray/imperfect coverage, no matter how hard I tried to properly situate the masks. Also extremely difficult to peel off once they're on. I couldn't get under the vinyl without breaking out a curved X-acto. Toothpicks? No way, no how. (This is in no way a diss on Graphic Encounters's work. I know I'm overlooking something obvious ... more on that in a minute.)

*FM's cut-out masks -- minor paint "seepage." I'm tempted to try this again, though.

*Micromask -- outstanding masking ability, but dadgum do I struggle to get it all off. Even when I try to apply it very heavily, I still wind up with residue that can't be removed (soaking in water doesn't dissolve it very well at all). Masking tape won't lift it either

*handpainting ... ugh. Getting a smooth finish has proven extremely hard, and I invariably wind up with a bit of paint on the clear portions of the egress hatch *frowns*

I feel like I'm doing something wrong with Micromask and the pre-cut vinyl masks. Has anyone had similar troubles and solved 'em? If so, what did you do?

rpauly · Post by **rpauly** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 6:56 pm

Scotch magic tape does a great job of lifting Micromask. As for the vinyl pre-cut masks, stick 'em to your finger a few times first, to take the edge off the tack. Once they're in place, give the canopy a shot of future with an airbrush or dip it -CAREFULLY. You want to seal the edge of the masks, not wash them off. You shouldn't see any bleed through or bleed under after that.

Post by **TER-OR** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:17 pm

Tamiya Tape does well, too, but takes a bit more to cut to shape than cellophane tape. I cut thin strips, lay those along the line, then cut larger bits to fill.

On little square windows, I've cut pieces of Tamiya Tape.

On this beastie, each rectangular window got 4 pieces of tape, leetle squares and triangles and strips of Tamiya Tape.
http://www.modelingmadness.com/reviews/ ... leju88.htm

irishtrek · Post by **irishtrek** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:53 pm

Have you tried masking tape AND Micro-mask together?
Side note how about a stick on masking?

Dukat, S.G. · Post by **Dukat, S.G.** » Thu Oct 18, 2007 10:07 pm

rpauly wrote:Scotch magic tape does a great job of lifting Micromask.

I tested that today.

At first, I was skeptical. I applied the tape, burnished it down on the Micromasked areas, and gave it a good RIIIIIIIP!

But nothing happened

Then I put the part in water for a minute or two. I dried the sucker, then tried the Scotch again

Suffice to say, the stuff IS magic after all

Many, MANY thanks for this tip, Rpauly. The results are almost more than I could've hoped for.

As for the vinyl pre-cut masks, stick 'em to your finger a few times first, to take the edge off the tack. Once they're in place, give the canopy a shot of future with an airbrush or dip it -CAREFULLY. You want to seal the edge of the masks, not wash them off. You shouldn't see any bleed through or bleed under after that.

Cool. I'll try that.

Pat Amaral · Post by **Pat Amaral** » Fri Oct 19, 2007 1:33 am

I've used Bare Metal Foil to mask canopies with quite a bit of success. Cover the entire part with the foil. Burnish is down really well with a toothpick or swab until you can clearly see all the frame details. Then CAREFULY cut along the framing lines with a sharp blade and remove the foil from the areas to be painted. After painting, it's easy to lift the foil masking with a hobby blade. Many people complain that the foil can leave a residue after it's been removed but it's easily cleaned up with alcohol and a swab

PetarB · Post by **PetarB** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 4:29 pm

If youre getting bleed, try thinning your paint less when you airbrush, and use a lower pressure. And a few very light coats.

Post by **TER-OR** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:12 pm

Perhaps warming the piece will let the mask lift more readily? A bowl of warm water may help.