Thanks for the tip. Must be the paint, although I use MM Acryl straight from the bottle and air pressure at 30. I thought my air pressure was too high and I was painting too far away as I am trying to cover large areas. I'll give it a try with my bottom feeder this weekend at lower air pressure and thin with water. I'm masking my DS9 Optic kit now.
OB
Airbrush Survey
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
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Jonas Calhoun
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TER-OR
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That's a recipe for half-dry paint. Been there, done that!obertc wrote:Thanks for the tip. Must be the paint, although I use MM Acryl straight from the bottle and air pressure at 30. I thought my air pressure was too high and I was painting too far away as I am trying to cover large areas.
OB
You'll get the hang of it. Grab an old kit and practice, you can always strip it again.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
TER-OR, this site does not seem to work any longer...
http://m2reviews.cnsi.net/others/featur ... survey.htm
On another issue, someone stated that Badger would rebuild the AB. I believe that Wren is a Badger AB, so I guess that would mean that I could send it out to be rebuilt also?
Never mind on the Wren... just remember that it was made by Binks.
Does anyone like the Badger 350? Looking for an AB for base coats.
http://m2reviews.cnsi.net/others/featur ... survey.htm
On another issue, someone stated that Badger would rebuild the AB. I believe that Wren is a Badger AB, so I guess that would mean that I could send it out to be rebuilt also?
Never mind on the Wren... just remember that it was made by Binks.
Does anyone like the Badger 350? Looking for an AB for base coats.
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admiralcag
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TER-OR
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The Airbrush Survey should be here, too. It's just not formatted. I guess I should re-work it with newer replies.
The 350 is a pretty robust simple airbrush. The Paashe H is more durable, I think.
For other single-action brushes you can try the Badger 200 and Iwata Revolution-S. Those are both internal-mix airbrushes and take some getting used to.
The 350 is a pretty robust simple airbrush. The Paashe H is more durable, I think.
For other single-action brushes you can try the Badger 200 and Iwata Revolution-S. Those are both internal-mix airbrushes and take some getting used to.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
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lambda_epsilon
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 3:01 am
- Location: Ypsilanti, MI
Is this any good?
Ages ago i forked out $50 (which was a lot to a 14 year old, heck it's a decent amount now) for my first airbrush. I'm just wondering if anyone else has used this and what they think about it...
Model Master - 8826
You can find it here.
http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=1200
Will this thing do me any good or do i need to think about putting a Paashe on my christmas list?
Model Master - 8826
You can find it here.
http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=1200
Will this thing do me any good or do i need to think about putting a Paashe on my christmas list?
Aaron
The best answer to this is have you tried it yet?
Whether it costs $0.25 or $1,500 doesn't matter if it does not do the job you need it to do.
I have read here of people who use an AB that others don't like and are very happy with it.
So, like I said... have you used it and if so... does it do the job you need of it?
I have been using a Wren B single action for over 10 years for base coating and if that is all I do with it... well, that works for me.
My thing now is replacing my Sotar with an Iwata and this is mainly because the Iwata's bearings are teflon unlike the Sotar which means it can handle the laquers better.
Whether it costs $0.25 or $1,500 doesn't matter if it does not do the job you need it to do.
I have read here of people who use an AB that others don't like and are very happy with it.
So, like I said... have you used it and if so... does it do the job you need of it?
I have been using a Wren B single action for over 10 years for base coating and if that is all I do with it... well, that works for me.
My thing now is replacing my Sotar with an Iwata and this is mainly because the Iwata's bearings are teflon unlike the Sotar which means it can handle the laquers better.
Before i got deployed the wife was great and bought me a Iwata HP-C plus. She saw that i had been researching ABs for awhile and was undecisive so she got it for me.
I used it for the first time today and let me tell you i love it. easy to use and clean. Im using vallejo model air and it worked great my old AB a aztec 470 would have had dry tip in 5 min and been spitting all over not this brush though.. I did three colors and four models in 15 mins. Also because i do mostly 1/72 it has a good coverage area even though it is a detail brush. and fine lines are so easy now just have to thin the paint good.
I used it for the first time today and let me tell you i love it. easy to use and clean. Im using vallejo model air and it worked great my old AB a aztec 470 would have had dry tip in 5 min and been spitting all over not this brush though.. I did three colors and four models in 15 mins. Also because i do mostly 1/72 it has a good coverage area even though it is a detail brush. and fine lines are so easy now just have to thin the paint good.
I submit my new airbrush.
I've had a chance to exchange my Evolution for this model which has some extra features available, like the quick-fix.
It is probably quite expensive in the USA, but in europe it costs about the same as the US companie's top models.
http://www.harder-airbrush.de/english/
Manufacturer and Model of Airbrush: Harder & Steenbeck, Infinity 2-in-1
Cost of Airbrush: €185,-
Type: Double Action
fine lines to middle coverage - needlesets 0.15mm - 0.4 mm (spread is wide enough for 3-foot models)
Paint head: internal (gravity flow, optional suction flow)
Body construction: Front part chrome plated and goldplated stainless steel, back cover is ionised aluminium with chromeplated and gold plated stainless steel parts
Internal construction: chromeplated and goldplated stainless steel for all mechanical parts and teflon sealers.
Fitting type: ?
Optional parts: optional suctionflow sidecups, nozzlesets, seperate needlecups, nozzles and needles, fine airflow limiter, every part of the airbrush seperately available.
Ease of breakdown and cleaning: extremely easy to disassemble and clean (this also goes for the evolution model)
Durability of parts such as needle, tip etc: 10 years factory warranty on all parts with normal use.
Cost and availability of replacement parts: every single part available. i hope i never have to order a spare part, so no idea what the prices are.
Ease of use: easy
Performance with acrylics, lacquer, enamel: Acrylics good, i tested with createx autocolor semi opaques, transparents, pearlized and metalics.
I don't use enamels or laquers, but with the teflon parts should be able to handle both.
Comfortable to hold and operate.
"Cool" features not generally available: Quickfix, a setting on the back that allows you to set a maximum paintflow that engages on a buttonpush and releases that maximum when pulled back.
Why did you choose this airbrush? Availability in Europe and mechanical quality of the airbrush
How long have you used this model? for a very short while, before i used a 20 year old paashe
What type of work do you do with it? Models and some graphic art
Would you recommend it to others, and why? I would recommend it to anyone who can affort it, this one or the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution, because they are extremely easy to disassemble and clean and just feel sturdy and comfortable.
The open nozzlecap and distance cap allow for excelent performance for fine lines and area coverage.
I've had a chance to exchange my Evolution for this model which has some extra features available, like the quick-fix.
It is probably quite expensive in the USA, but in europe it costs about the same as the US companie's top models.
http://www.harder-airbrush.de/english/
Manufacturer and Model of Airbrush: Harder & Steenbeck, Infinity 2-in-1
Cost of Airbrush: €185,-
Type: Double Action
fine lines to middle coverage - needlesets 0.15mm - 0.4 mm (spread is wide enough for 3-foot models)
Paint head: internal (gravity flow, optional suction flow)
Body construction: Front part chrome plated and goldplated stainless steel, back cover is ionised aluminium with chromeplated and gold plated stainless steel parts
Internal construction: chromeplated and goldplated stainless steel for all mechanical parts and teflon sealers.
Fitting type: ?
Optional parts: optional suctionflow sidecups, nozzlesets, seperate needlecups, nozzles and needles, fine airflow limiter, every part of the airbrush seperately available.
Ease of breakdown and cleaning: extremely easy to disassemble and clean (this also goes for the evolution model)
Durability of parts such as needle, tip etc: 10 years factory warranty on all parts with normal use.
Cost and availability of replacement parts: every single part available. i hope i never have to order a spare part, so no idea what the prices are.
Ease of use: easy
Performance with acrylics, lacquer, enamel: Acrylics good, i tested with createx autocolor semi opaques, transparents, pearlized and metalics.
I don't use enamels or laquers, but with the teflon parts should be able to handle both.
Comfortable to hold and operate.
"Cool" features not generally available: Quickfix, a setting on the back that allows you to set a maximum paintflow that engages on a buttonpush and releases that maximum when pulled back.
Why did you choose this airbrush? Availability in Europe and mechanical quality of the airbrush
How long have you used this model? for a very short while, before i used a 20 year old paashe
What type of work do you do with it? Models and some graphic art
Would you recommend it to others, and why? I would recommend it to anyone who can affort it, this one or the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution, because they are extremely easy to disassemble and clean and just feel sturdy and comfortable.
The open nozzlecap and distance cap allow for excelent performance for fine lines and area coverage.
Democracy may be only a few steps removed from anarchy,
But at least it's not as loud.
You broke your little ships. See you around Ahab.
But at least it's not as loud.
You broke your little ships. See you around Ahab.
The cat saw fit to knock my old Paasche airbrush off of my workbench last year while I had the tip housing off for cleaning. Landed tip-first of course, horseing the needle into a spectacular curve and stretching the tip shroud.
I've just won a "last man standing" beard chicken contest at work (5 months of no shaving) that's netted me a couple of hundred bucks. I would be fine with another Paasche DA just like what I have, but since I have a little cash, am I missing out on an upgrade? I prefer DA action and bottle-source, not cup. Thing is, the only thing I really need to replace is the unit - hoses and adaptor are fine, so if I stick with Paasche I can get some varied tips as well.
Also. Is Iwata worth the $$?
Thanks!
-dale
I've just won a "last man standing" beard chicken contest at work (5 months of no shaving) that's netted me a couple of hundred bucks. I would be fine with another Paasche DA just like what I have, but since I have a little cash, am I missing out on an upgrade? I prefer DA action and bottle-source, not cup. Thing is, the only thing I really need to replace is the unit - hoses and adaptor are fine, so if I stick with Paasche I can get some varied tips as well.
Also. Is Iwata worth the $$?
Thanks!
-dale
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TER-OR
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I haven't gone back to a bottle since using gravity-feed. Hell, I bought an Omni 4000 to replace my 3000 and still use my stock of parts. It's a decent all-around brush.
Iwata is worth the money, though. Go straight for the Eclipse instead of the Revolution, though. Do know you'll spend more money for spare tips and needles though. So take care of it.
Iwata is worth the money, though. Go straight for the Eclipse instead of the Revolution, though. Do know you'll spend more money for spare tips and needles though. So take care of it.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Manufacturer and Model of Airbrush: Badger 200
Cost of Airbrush: About 60GBP
Type (single, double): Single
Is it more suitable for fine lines or broad coverage? Depends on the chosen head
Paint head (internal or external mix): Internal
Body construction (plastic, chrome plated brass, other): Chromed & painted metal
Internal construction (plastic, chrome plated brass, other): Same as body construction
Fitting type (Badger, Paashe, or proprietary): Badger
Optional parts: color cups, multiple nozzles/tips, trigger pads etc.: Cups, tips, needles etc
Ease of breakdown and cleaning (easy, moderate, difficult): Very easy
Durability of parts such as needle, tip etc: If you're careful it will outlast you
Cost and availability of replacement parts (specific or broad idea): Fair replacement costs easy to find
Ease of use: Very easy
Performance with acrylics, lacquer, enamel: Excellent if thinned properly
Do you find the design easy hold, and comfortable to use? Yes
"Cool" features not generally available (left or right hand interchangeable color cup, etc):
Why did you choose this airbrush? Used a friends and liked it
How long have you used this model? 20+years
What type of work do you do with it? Broad, fine, lining, I even signed a cheque with it.
Would you recommend it to others, and why? Yes, simple to use and clean.
Cost of Airbrush: About 60GBP
Type (single, double): Single
Is it more suitable for fine lines or broad coverage? Depends on the chosen head
Paint head (internal or external mix): Internal
Body construction (plastic, chrome plated brass, other): Chromed & painted metal
Internal construction (plastic, chrome plated brass, other): Same as body construction
Fitting type (Badger, Paashe, or proprietary): Badger
Optional parts: color cups, multiple nozzles/tips, trigger pads etc.: Cups, tips, needles etc
Ease of breakdown and cleaning (easy, moderate, difficult): Very easy
Durability of parts such as needle, tip etc: If you're careful it will outlast you
Cost and availability of replacement parts (specific or broad idea): Fair replacement costs easy to find
Ease of use: Very easy
Performance with acrylics, lacquer, enamel: Excellent if thinned properly
Do you find the design easy hold, and comfortable to use? Yes
"Cool" features not generally available (left or right hand interchangeable color cup, etc):
Why did you choose this airbrush? Used a friends and liked it
How long have you used this model? 20+years
What type of work do you do with it? Broad, fine, lining, I even signed a cheque with it.
Would you recommend it to others, and why? Yes, simple to use and clean.
Never let success go to your head.....And never let failure go to your heart.
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Glorfindel
- Posts: 1549
- Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 7:00 pm
- Location: Long Island, NY
Manufacturer and Model: Iwata HP- BCS, came with Iwata Smart Jet Pro that I won on Flea-Bay. $185.00 for all. HP-BCS cost is about 100.00 new.
Type: Double action
Paint Head: Internal
Body construction: Chrome plated
Internal construction: Chrome plated
Fitting type: Iwata, standard.
Optional parts: Extra 1oz. and 2oz. glass jars for paints and all solvents, Iwata External Mac Valve (the greatest invention)
Ease of cleaning: Not too bad. usually cumbersome getting the airflow button set in its proper place is a little annoying. Small inconvenience.
Cost of availability of replacement parts: The airbrush model is still available so I figure parts are still out there as well.
Performance with media: I shoot acrylics and Future and so far no problems.
Ease of handling: BCS is the first and only airbrush I've ever owned and it seems easy enough. I did view a demonstration of the new Grex TG, I think that's what they call it, and it worked real nice.
Why did I choose the airbrush: See above....won it on E-Bay (really in it for the compressor)
How long have I had this model? About 3 months. (I'm a newbie)
Type of work with it? Base coating, light shading and detailing. Shooting Future as base for decals and of course locking in previous paint/weathering. Going to try shoot primer within my next few builds.
Would I recommend it? Yes, easy to use and worth getting to know a bottom feed unit. Eventually I'll get a Gravity fed airbrush that can shoot finer lines.
Type: Double action
Paint Head: Internal
Body construction: Chrome plated
Internal construction: Chrome plated
Fitting type: Iwata, standard.
Optional parts: Extra 1oz. and 2oz. glass jars for paints and all solvents, Iwata External Mac Valve (the greatest invention)
Ease of cleaning: Not too bad. usually cumbersome getting the airflow button set in its proper place is a little annoying. Small inconvenience.
Cost of availability of replacement parts: The airbrush model is still available so I figure parts are still out there as well.
Performance with media: I shoot acrylics and Future and so far no problems.
Ease of handling: BCS is the first and only airbrush I've ever owned and it seems easy enough. I did view a demonstration of the new Grex TG, I think that's what they call it, and it worked real nice.
Why did I choose the airbrush: See above....won it on E-Bay (really in it for the compressor)
How long have I had this model? About 3 months. (I'm a newbie)
Type of work with it? Base coating, light shading and detailing. Shooting Future as base for decals and of course locking in previous paint/weathering. Going to try shoot primer within my next few builds.
Would I recommend it? Yes, easy to use and worth getting to know a bottom feed unit. Eventually I'll get a Gravity fed airbrush that can shoot finer lines.
Buck Laughlin: [after Beatrice the dog jumps up on the show judge] He went for her like she's made outta ham.
~Best in Show, 2000
~Best in Show, 2000
airbrushes
I am finally in the market to upgrade to a better grade of airbrush, has anyone purchased or used the new badger line or the grex line and if so what are your thoughts on either one. I have seen both at the IPMS nationals and regionals, I'm kind of not worried about the price of either, just their performance. So any thoughts would be appreciated.
I plan on keeping my old aztec and badger 150 for spraying primer and putting down base coats of color , but for fine detail work on spacships and other sci-fi vehicles that's what i"m looking for a new airbrush for. The Grex has the pistol grip which I tried at the nats but the new badger line feels great in the hand also but which works better in your opinion.
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Glorfindel
- Posts: 1549
- Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 7:00 pm
- Location: Long Island, NY
Don't know much about the Badger but I tried the Grex Tritium TG pistol grip you speak of at the NorEastCon about a month ago. It shot out some pretty fine lines (don't know about the hairline stuff they talk about) and a wider spray of about 2"-2.5" coverage. I know you can get a smaller tip for it for finer work. For the record I sampled it with the stock tip it comes with which is the middle size. There are 3 tips all together. I would think it would take just a little time to adjust to the pistol type grip, but then again I just started toying around with airbrushing a few months ago and have no basis for advising you. It did seem pretty good to me though.
Spoken like a true novice!
Spoken like a true novice!
Buck Laughlin: [after Beatrice the dog jumps up on the show judge] He went for her like she's made outta ham.
~Best in Show, 2000
~Best in Show, 2000
Just found this thread. Since I love airbrushes, and have tested a lot of them, I thought it could be fun to reply.
At the moment I have a bit more than one. In alphabetic order:
Badger 200: Still a good airbrush, but there´s nothing it can do, that others can´t.
Efbe B1: Got this 2:nd hand a about a year ago, and it´s a dream when it comes to quality. But it´s seem to need a few new parts, so I can´t really give a complete view of it.
Gunze/GSI PS-275 and 290: My first pistol trigger action airbrushes. Still use them sometimes, and can still recommend them.
Grex Genesis XG and Tritium TG: The Tritium is great! Got one of these when I started selling the brand. Fabulous pistol trigger airbrush. The XG is my demo airbrush for the shop, and I´ve used it quite a lot in modelling lately. Good, solid airbrush, that cleans great, and has the best chrome I´ve seen.
Iwata HP-C, HP-CS: The Eclipse is probably one of the best alround airbrushes out there. Modellers can´t go wrong with one.
Olympos HP-100B, HP-100C, HP-102C, MP-200A, MP-200B and MP-200C. All of them are among my favorite airbrushes, but if I could only keep one airbrush in my inventory, it would be the MP-200C. This is the perfect Micron, in my opinion. Best airbrush I´ve ever owned. And among the most expensive.
Rich AB-100, AB-200 and AB-300: These are among my oldest airbrushes. Got the AB-200 more than 20 years ago. Still a great airbrush. The AB-100 details extremly good.
Richpen 213C / Mojo: Best detail airbrush I´ve ever used. Not that it can make the thinnest line, but it´s the one that can make it from the furthest distance. It must be the combination of the Mike Learn tuning, the needle and nozzle combination and pure luck that makes it what it is. And it works good for larger work as well. Only drawback is that it feels a bit clumsy.
Airbrushes that I´ve owned:
Aztek 470: Hated it. Couldn´t get consistant performance from it. Might have been because it was at the same point as I started with acrylics.
Badger 100, 150 and 175: Didn´t really like any of them. Probably I expected more from them, since I was quite satisfied with the 200.
Fengda: At least 6 or 7 different ones that has come with compressor kits and other packages. Clones of known models. Inferior quality, but usually decent performers. Better than my Aztek experience....
Gunze/GSI PS-269 and 270: Works and funtions a lot like the HP-BH/CH, but has in my opinion better ergonomics. The 0.3mm 269 is probably what most modellers need in an airbrush.
H&S: Evolution Silverline fPS and Infinity 2-in-1: Didn´t like the feel of the triggers. Nice airbrushes though. Very popular in Europe.
Iwata HP-B, HP-BS, HP-SBS, HP-CH, CM-B, CM-C, CM-C+: All Iwatas are nice airbrushes. Sold them mostly because I have others that perform equal or better.
Paasche VL: In my opinion, crude. Really didn´t find anything that made me keep it.
Richpen 033 Spectra / Moflo: Best siphon-fed airbrush I´ve had. If you want a bottle fed airbrush, this is a nice on. As with the Mojo, it is tuned by Mike Learn. Traded it away, and still miss it.
Airbrushes that I will buy in the future:
Badger Sotar. Mostly because I want one for my growing collection. Probably a Patriot or Velocity as well. Mostly because I wan´t to see what the fuss is about.
Hohmi/Holbein Y2 or Y3: Have heard great things about these airbrushes.
Iwata CM-SB: It´s the only Micron I´ve not owned or tried. Some artist state that it is the most responsive of the Microns.
Rich RB-2: Very good priced airbrush here in Europe, and it is supposed to be a solid alround performer.
Paasche AB Turbo: True classic. Need to have one for the collection, but it seems hard to find a left hand version at a good price.
At the moment I have a bit more than one. In alphabetic order:
Badger 200: Still a good airbrush, but there´s nothing it can do, that others can´t.
Efbe B1: Got this 2:nd hand a about a year ago, and it´s a dream when it comes to quality. But it´s seem to need a few new parts, so I can´t really give a complete view of it.
Gunze/GSI PS-275 and 290: My first pistol trigger action airbrushes. Still use them sometimes, and can still recommend them.
Grex Genesis XG and Tritium TG: The Tritium is great! Got one of these when I started selling the brand. Fabulous pistol trigger airbrush. The XG is my demo airbrush for the shop, and I´ve used it quite a lot in modelling lately. Good, solid airbrush, that cleans great, and has the best chrome I´ve seen.
Iwata HP-C, HP-CS: The Eclipse is probably one of the best alround airbrushes out there. Modellers can´t go wrong with one.
Olympos HP-100B, HP-100C, HP-102C, MP-200A, MP-200B and MP-200C. All of them are among my favorite airbrushes, but if I could only keep one airbrush in my inventory, it would be the MP-200C. This is the perfect Micron, in my opinion. Best airbrush I´ve ever owned. And among the most expensive.
Rich AB-100, AB-200 and AB-300: These are among my oldest airbrushes. Got the AB-200 more than 20 years ago. Still a great airbrush. The AB-100 details extremly good.
Richpen 213C / Mojo: Best detail airbrush I´ve ever used. Not that it can make the thinnest line, but it´s the one that can make it from the furthest distance. It must be the combination of the Mike Learn tuning, the needle and nozzle combination and pure luck that makes it what it is. And it works good for larger work as well. Only drawback is that it feels a bit clumsy.
Airbrushes that I´ve owned:
Aztek 470: Hated it. Couldn´t get consistant performance from it. Might have been because it was at the same point as I started with acrylics.
Badger 100, 150 and 175: Didn´t really like any of them. Probably I expected more from them, since I was quite satisfied with the 200.
Fengda: At least 6 or 7 different ones that has come with compressor kits and other packages. Clones of known models. Inferior quality, but usually decent performers. Better than my Aztek experience....
Gunze/GSI PS-269 and 270: Works and funtions a lot like the HP-BH/CH, but has in my opinion better ergonomics. The 0.3mm 269 is probably what most modellers need in an airbrush.
H&S: Evolution Silverline fPS and Infinity 2-in-1: Didn´t like the feel of the triggers. Nice airbrushes though. Very popular in Europe.
Iwata HP-B, HP-BS, HP-SBS, HP-CH, CM-B, CM-C, CM-C+: All Iwatas are nice airbrushes. Sold them mostly because I have others that perform equal or better.
Paasche VL: In my opinion, crude. Really didn´t find anything that made me keep it.
Richpen 033 Spectra / Moflo: Best siphon-fed airbrush I´ve had. If you want a bottle fed airbrush, this is a nice on. As with the Mojo, it is tuned by Mike Learn. Traded it away, and still miss it.
Airbrushes that I will buy in the future:
Badger Sotar. Mostly because I want one for my growing collection. Probably a Patriot or Velocity as well. Mostly because I wan´t to see what the fuss is about.
Hohmi/Holbein Y2 or Y3: Have heard great things about these airbrushes.
Iwata CM-SB: It´s the only Micron I´ve not owned or tried. Some artist state that it is the most responsive of the Microns.
Rich RB-2: Very good priced airbrush here in Europe, and it is supposed to be a solid alround performer.
Paasche AB Turbo: True classic. Need to have one for the collection, but it seems hard to find a left hand version at a good price.
I'm a bit biased, as I carry Grex in my store, but the Genesis XG is terrific alround airbrush.
Iwatas HP-CS is very good as well.
Both these airbrushes can do most the average modeller wants. I prefere the Grex, because of it's great internal chrome. In combination with acrylics, it is very low maintenance. And the spares are cheap as well.
Combine any of the above with a detail airbrush, and you will be set for a long time. Which one depends on the budget.
Iwatas HP-CS is very good as well.
Both these airbrushes can do most the average modeller wants. I prefere the Grex, because of it's great internal chrome. In combination with acrylics, it is very low maintenance. And the spares are cheap as well.
Combine any of the above with a detail airbrush, and you will be set for a long time. Which one depends on the budget.
Iwata has also come out with a trigger action ab: http://www.iwata-medea.com/index.php/products/hp_tr1/
Abolish Alliteration