Wiring regular incandescent bulbs
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Wiring regular incandescent bulbs
I have a project involving a single "chandelier" bulb that is normally run off a common 110 volt (Standard outlet) line. I have always used ac adapters as power source in the past. Anyone able to give me any tips on how to (safely) wire such a project. Do I just get an extension cord, cut off the end and splice it to the wires? Do I need any resistors? Can I use standard 22g wire to run from switch to bulb? Please help.
The key here is heat: make certain that it isn't enclosed and on for any significant period of time.
I believe you're suggesting just wiring the light bulb like a standard lamp, with a lead on one end of the bulb and the other on the other side.
This should work fine. 22 gauge wire seems a little thin, but you can start with it and just monitor if it gets warm. Any indication of warmth means it's probably a little thin.
When working with AC, I recommend using a powerbar with a switch and breaker. That way, you're turning on the project to test it without putting your hands near the plug and if it blows it doesn't take out your house.
I believe you're suggesting just wiring the light bulb like a standard lamp, with a lead on one end of the bulb and the other on the other side.
This should work fine. 22 gauge wire seems a little thin, but you can start with it and just monitor if it gets warm. Any indication of warmth means it's probably a little thin.
When working with AC, I recommend using a powerbar with a switch and breaker. That way, you're turning on the project to test it without putting your hands near the plug and if it blows it doesn't take out your house.
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Make sure when testing your on an isolated circuit breaker, just in case you pop it. Remember the problem with the 22 AWG is that the 15 amp breaker in your house is designed to work safely with 14 AWG (is this right or is it 16 I can't remember).
The good news is at this time or year you can find some Holiday lights with smaller fuses built in to the plug, I believe they are 18 AWG though. Snip of the end as close to the first light as you can to give you a good pigtail and wire it to the base of the model.
Also make sure you use the same wire size that the Lights use, that way the fuse is actually protecting you from melting the wires. Regular Copper wire will act like a hot wire foam cutter, hot enough to melt styrene maybe even catch it on fire.
The good news is at this time or year you can find some Holiday lights with smaller fuses built in to the plug, I believe they are 18 AWG though. Snip of the end as close to the first light as you can to give you a good pigtail and wire it to the base of the model.
Also make sure you use the same wire size that the Lights use, that way the fuse is actually protecting you from melting the wires. Regular Copper wire will act like a hot wire foam cutter, hot enough to melt styrene maybe even catch it on fire.
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So, what would happen if I used an 18 volt ac adapter to power it instead? Would the light not glow as brightly, not glow at all, or work properly? It might be just as well to just string a series of leds on a 15 or 18 volt adapter, but I want as close to uniform source as possible. The specific bulb I was advised to purchase is a 40w fluorescent candelabra base which will be screwed into a "single leg hickey" candelabra socket with braided copper wire, I'm guessing approx 18-16 g wire leads. The Lowe's man told me "very bright, very little heat." Any thoughts/suggestions?
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The fluorescent he's talking about is a compact fluorescent, all the ballast junk is in the base. It takes ac direct.
One of these styles right?
http://www.1000bulbs.com/Screw-In-Compact-Fluorescents/
One of these styles right?
http://www.1000bulbs.com/Screw-In-Compact-Fluorescents/
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Please note that these will got hot very quickly if used in a sealed model, they are intended and tested in open air sockets. An intake and exhaust rigged so that risisng heat draws in fresh air as it escapes through a went in the model will help keep it going.
The fluorescents fixtures we used in a project are noticeably dimmer now, it had been shown once, and then setup a few times at home after wards and then went to another show as a display piece. Now we can get to the tubes to change them but it's worth noting that you will loose brightness the longer the bulb is on and the hotter it gets while it's on.
The fluorescents fixtures we used in a project are noticeably dimmer now, it had been shown once, and then setup a few times at home after wards and then went to another show as a display piece. Now we can get to the tubes to change them but it's worth noting that you will loose brightness the longer the bulb is on and the hotter it gets while it's on.
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Also note, we had a fan in the base of model and open venting on top and it still got hot in there.
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I moved this thread to the lighting and electronics forum.
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why did you moved this thread to the lighting and electronics forum.? Is any thing wrong?
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