Howdy all,
I'm going to start on my first lighted kit, and am really stymied on how I can attach the model to a brass rod with wiring running through it. And not just this particular kit, but any hollow model to a brass rod. How do you make an "insert" or whatever for the inside of the model so the rod doesn't just run up all the way through and leave the kit flopping around loose on the rod?
Do you epoxy the rod in place from the inside? That would work, but would have to be done before painting.
I vaguely recall there was an article on how to mount kits to rods in FSM 10-ish years ago, but I sure don't have that issue anymore.
Any pointers, links, whatever, would be very appreciated.
Thanks!
Jeff
Techniques for mounting to a brass rod containing wiring?
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- Umi_Ryuzuki
- Posts: 3841
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 2:22 pm
- Location: PDX, Oregon
- Contact:
I would probably buy two sizes of brass tube.(telescoping brass tubes)
The display tube, and then the next size bigger.
I would cut a short length of the larger size, to make a socket.
And I would solder in a 1/4" piece of the smaller display tube to
the inside the top end to make a stop.
Then mount the larger tube inside the model.
Mounting... hmmm, sort of depends on how heavy the model is.
My first thought would be to solder a washer near the base of the
larger socket tube so that tube end sets flush with the outside of the
model, then epoxy and brace the washer to the inside surface of the model.
Ideally, the tube would be braced side to side, front to back and
against the top of the model to prevent it from being torqued loose inside.
The display tube and wiring could then be inserted into the "socket" and
the wiring would come out the top and power could then be distributed
through the model. Almost make me want to design in a power plug, so
the model can be removed from the stand... Not much more work to do
that...
The display tube, and then the next size bigger.
I would cut a short length of the larger size, to make a socket.
And I would solder in a 1/4" piece of the smaller display tube to
the inside the top end to make a stop.
Then mount the larger tube inside the model.
Mounting... hmmm, sort of depends on how heavy the model is.
My first thought would be to solder a washer near the base of the
larger socket tube so that tube end sets flush with the outside of the
model, then epoxy and brace the washer to the inside surface of the model.
Ideally, the tube would be braced side to side, front to back and
against the top of the model to prevent it from being torqued loose inside.
The display tube and wiring could then be inserted into the "socket" and
the wiring would come out the top and power could then be distributed
through the model. Almost make me want to design in a power plug, so
the model can be removed from the stand... Not much more work to do
that...
- Mr. Badwrench
- Posts: 9587
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 6:31 pm
- Location: Wheatridge, Co.
ZOmBe beat me to it, but yeah, nothing works better than a mono audio jack. There is a size of K&S brass tubing that fits snugly onto the jack, (Don't remember what it is off the top of my head). For the female end, inside the ship, I brace the plug all around with square styrene tubing. It's light and strong, and you can build up short sections of it like brick, to achieve whatever level of structural strength you feel you need.
The best thing about this technique is it allows you to remove the model from the base, which makes storage and shipping much easier.
The best thing about this technique is it allows you to remove the model from the base, which makes storage and shipping much easier.
I speak of the pompatous of plastic.