Elmer's as a Masking Fluid

zaphod · Post by **zaphod** » Wed Jan 02, 2008 11:39 am

Hi All,
I searched and didn't find a thread on this so.....

I'm doing the 1/350 Enterprise A as a just-for-fun training run before I do another one with lights. (yes, he's finally working on a model!)

I needed to mask the windows before priming, and all I had on hand was Elmer's white glue. It's drying nicely and seems easy to pry back off the bare plastic after I get the model painted.

Have any of you done this?

Any words of wisdom or warning?

What sort of liquid masking agents do you prefer?

Zaphod, Galactic President

Woody · Post by **Woody** » Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:28 pm

I've never used it to mask but you can tint it with food color (or not) to make tinted and clear windows or marker lights, etc. I don't think it would make a good masking agent.

Joseph Osborn · Post by **Joseph Osborn** » Wed Jan 02, 2008 2:13 pm

There's a recipe from ancient times for a homebrew liquid mask that works well: White glue mixed with a few drops of dishwashing liquid and tinted with food coloring.

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Thu Jan 03, 2008 10:39 am

I've done it over Futured landing and formation lights on my 2004 Box'Crap challenge build. Make sure you make a nice, big drop that will be easy to pop off. Also remember, the stuff's a little strong, make sure what ever you're masking with it had beeter be damned smooth.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

Post by **TER-OR** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 11:38 am

Was that on well-Futured clear bits, Kenny?
I'm always looking for easy ways to mask complex canopies...

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 3:24 pm

TER-OR wrote:Was that on well-Futured clear bits, Kenny?
I'm always looking for easy ways to mask complex canopies...

Yes to the clear bits, but no on the canopies. The leading edge lights and wingtip lights were 30-minute epoxy. When dry, I sanded to shape and polished the heck out of them with a fingernail polishing kit. After that, they were Futured.

For some reason, my liquid latex mask would bead up and retract from the edges of the epoxy. I guess there was something in the epoxy the masking agent didn't like that made it through the Future. I then applied big drops of white glue, like I had done as a kid to make a silver chip effect. The trick is to keep the stuff from running too much.

Neat thing about it is, just like masking tape, you can cut it (after it dries, of course) with a sharp blade if it does run a bit. I would recommend your tip of the curved knife blade if I were to do it again today.

I bet it would work on canopies, though, as long as it were thick and you could pry the edge up after color coats.

Kenny