Because it looks promising.
http://www.b26354.co.nz/NX-01/pictures/dsc_2172.jpg
http://www.b26354.co.nz/NX-01/pictures/dsc_2173.jpg
I was just seeing how tricky it is to wire up.
This wire isn't that bright (you can get brighter though) but you can put light just where you need it which also helps with lightproofing (that's just 1 coat of tamiya primer).
I'll wire up a couple of meters and run it under every window and see what it looks like.
I also got a couple of meters of blue which I'm going to try in the nacelles.
Has anyone tried electroluminescent wire for lighting?
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DLMatthys
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Looks promising Jon.
I was wondering how much bright can you make it glow?
I did try some 6 foot of Glo-Wire made by LightSheet some 5 years back and I used two strands inside a USS Stargazer vacumm formed model.
It run well at 9 volts since that was what the inverter was set for.
http://www.culttvman.com/assets/images- ... er1034.JPG
http://www.culttvman.com/assets/images- ... er1035.JPG
I did want to continue using the wire for interior lamps...but it seamed not bright enough and took a lot of wire and expense at the time. White LEDs seamed more effective with 70 and 100 degree viewing angles.
I was wondering how much bright can you make it glow?
I did try some 6 foot of Glo-Wire made by LightSheet some 5 years back and I used two strands inside a USS Stargazer vacumm formed model.
It run well at 9 volts since that was what the inverter was set for.
http://www.culttvman.com/assets/images- ... er1034.JPG
http://www.culttvman.com/assets/images- ... er1035.JPG
I did want to continue using the wire for interior lamps...but it seamed not bright enough and took a lot of wire and expense at the time. White LEDs seamed more effective with 70 and 100 degree viewing angles.
I hooked up some of the blue wire - it's pretty bright. I'll need to make some sort of guide to keep the strands perfectly straight in the nacelles.
The local supplier only had the "budget" white wire in stock which isn't quite as bright. I tried using aluminium tape behind the wire which increases the amount getting out the windows a lot. Also I think filing a V shaped groove in the back of the plastic window inserts will help locate the wire directly behind the windows.
I actually bought the wire because I need to make something that looks like double fluorescent tubes for another project then got a few more meters to try lighting the NX.
BTW that aztec pattern is computer cut vinyl masking film - I stuck it on to check the size before drawing up the rest of the masks. I want to end up with a subtle 3 or 4 tone paintjob.
The local supplier only had the "budget" white wire in stock which isn't quite as bright. I tried using aluminium tape behind the wire which increases the amount getting out the windows a lot. Also I think filing a V shaped groove in the back of the plastic window inserts will help locate the wire directly behind the windows.
I actually bought the wire because I need to make something that looks like double fluorescent tubes for another project then got a few more meters to try lighting the NX.
BTW that aztec pattern is computer cut vinyl masking film - I stuck it on to check the size before drawing up the rest of the masks. I want to end up with a subtle 3 or 4 tone paintjob.
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Sparky
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Birghtness decays over time and power cycles as well. It seems noticeable to me at least.
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>
Thats probably because of the color particles they have to mix into the fluorescent layer. the greenish blue wires (that is about the color of phosphor when a current is applied) have a life expectancy that is more than twice as long as white or other colors because they don't have the colorparticles.
The same applies to the EL sheet though, that also has particles in it to make it glow white, hence the pink color when it is not on that is the natural color of the phosphor particles without a current.
For the nice Royal blue color in nacelles for instance you better use the uncolored EL flatlight strips (that ugly greenish blue) and apply a filter laminate and get one of those low power invertors that actualy are made for 3 x AA cells and your warp glow will work for 30 years uninterrupted or so
Also, lightwire might be flexable, if not bended it will also last longer because there is no tension in the material.
Laying it in a curve or loop puts quite a strain on the material mechanicaly and anything under a strain wears down.
The same applies to the EL sheet though, that also has particles in it to make it glow white, hence the pink color when it is not on that is the natural color of the phosphor particles without a current.
For the nice Royal blue color in nacelles for instance you better use the uncolored EL flatlight strips (that ugly greenish blue) and apply a filter laminate and get one of those low power invertors that actualy are made for 3 x AA cells and your warp glow will work for 30 years uninterrupted or so
Also, lightwire might be flexable, if not bended it will also last longer because there is no tension in the material.
Laying it in a curve or loop puts quite a strain on the material mechanicaly and anything under a strain wears down.
Democracy may be only a few steps removed from anarchy,
But at least it's not as loud.
You broke your little ships. See you around Ahab.
But at least it's not as loud.
You broke your little ships. See you around Ahab.