Off topic resin question

[Ti Raven]

Hi folks.
This is a bit of an odd or off topic question.
I need a casting resin for the top layer of coasters. The resin that I have been using for several years is EasyCast Clear Casting Epoxy.
It is a 1 to 1 mix, crystal clear and only once have I messed it up.

The only difficulty is the coasters shouldn't have too hot of a mug put on them.
Cold through moderately warm is o.k. But if I put a fairly hot cup of coffee on it, esp.
if it has those nubby bottoms, there be dimples afterwards.
If the day itself is hot, this happens more frequently-with cooler mugs.
These dimples have always slooooly disapered, but they vex me anyways.

Brands to stay away from as well as good brands would be very helpful.
Thanks!
Tanya

[macfrank]

Tanya,
If the coasters aren't too big or too deep, you could use drug store acrylic nail repair acrylic. It's stinky and fairly expensive stuff, but won't be affected by mug temperatures.

Alumilite sells a clear resin (also 1:1). the results are hard and also fairly temperature resistant. Unfortunately, you have to heat up the molds for best results and the resin will set in less than 5 minutes, so you'll get bubbles unless you degas the stuff or pressure cast it (or both).

I would avoid Envirotex, since it sounds a lot like the stuff you're using. Envirotex never gets very hard.

Another option might be fiberglass resin, without the fiberglass. That should be pretty clear in small amounts.

Frank

[Go Flight]

There's a clear, thick epoxy resin that they put on bar tops. Once cured it shouldn't be marked by a hot mug.
Where I work, we used it for 3 of our kitchen tables.

[Ti Raven]

Thank you both, Gentlemen. I appreciate the info.

Tanya

[Jonas Calhoun]

Most epoxies will break down around 120 degrees F.

I've used this stuff years ago to embed playing cards, chips, etc in a poker table: http://www.rustins.com.au/rustins/rusti ... g%20p1.htm But I don't know where to get it in your neck of the woods...

Edit: found it here.
Dan

[Ti Raven]

Coolness, Dan!
For the ones that I'm just using colored polymers and metals for this is perfect!
The second link warns against using it on painted surfaces- so it isn't a one product-fits-all,
but it does look very good for some apps.

I'll post some pix -soonish -to my PhotoBucket acct. to show the coasters. They have textures and most have paint and/or powdered brass, copper and aluminum

Thanks again, all!
Tanya

p.s.: Cool poker table, Dan

[macfrank]

Tanya,
How about Clear embossing enamel? This is a powder that melts at 300F+; it probably stays pretty solid at mere hot mug temperatures.

Frank

[Ti Raven]

This seems to be a much higher quality product than reg. embossing powder.
I didn't know of it's existence, at all.
Thank you , Frank. This seem to be a very good possibility, as well!

Tanya

[macfrank]

This seems to be a much higher quality product than reg. embossing powder.
I didn't know of it's existence, at all.

Same here. It all started when someone (I think it was Dan, actually) posted a link about a new wax for figures, etc. I got some, then needed a safe way of melting it. Went to Mr. Art and found the right wax melter. Then i noticed that it said it could also melt "embossing powders", including clear... so I got some as well.

I've tried pouring the stuff into a mold, but it cools off too quickly in all but the smallest molds.

Frank

[Shinnentai]

Try putting it in the mold dry, then put the mold in the oven and heat them together, so that the mold acts as both form and crucible.

Embossing powder is like cloisonne enamel: normally applied to the intended substrate dry, then melted in situ (with a kiln in the case of cloisonne enamel, an oven or heat gun in the case of embossing powder). As long as your mold material is rated for those temperatures, it should be all good.

[Ti Raven]

No mold, sir. It is intended to be the protective coating on coasters.
These are polymer clay, incised, painted, inlayed with other things (but not feathers).
The Peacock Feather Fiasco is one I'll not live down soon!

Tanya

[Shinnentai]

Might still work for Frank though.

Polymer clay... yeah, that won't do so well a those temps. There are, as others have noted, high-temp epoxies out there, both finishing epoxies for kitchen applications, and mold making epoxies for vacuuform and thermal elastomer molding.

Might even be worth giving the acrylic resin Frank mentioned a go, since you're just doing an enamel-like coating anyway. It's expensive as heck, but useful far beyond coasters. You can make your own custom halloween teeth with it !

[Scratchawan Learner]

Ti,

You may want to check out a product at WoodCraft.com, called Mirror Coat. I believe this product is similar in most respects to Rustins fine product. Mirror Coat is very tough stuff. My ex Father in Law used it on a bar he was constructing for a client of his. Stuff resists nasty things like cigarette burns, chemical spills, and hot food plates.

[Ti Raven]

That sounds very approprately tough, esp. the resistant part.

Thank you very much!

Tanya