TOPIC: Fillers and surface corrections.
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
Today I discovered and tried a new seam-filling agent at Hobby Lobby. At the model section they, they have their own house brand of CA glue, called 'Extreme Power'. The thin stuff in the fabulously pink bottle is very thin and flows along seams with VERY LITTLE persuasion. I had a couple runs, which I was able to catch early and mop up with cotton swabs. Love them cotton swabs!
So: if you haven't tried this stuff, give it a shot!
Zaphod, Galactic President
So: if you haven't tried this stuff, give it a shot!
Zaphod, Galactic President
Never miss an opportunity to be a class act.
Anybody know if Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer (jar) can fill fairly obnoxious, trench-like panel lines in resin? I can't keep up with all the Mr. this-and-that that's out there, and I'm not sure if this stuff is thick enough. I know it'll do small pinholes and scratches just great. But I've already got a primer coat of Mr. Resin Primer (spray can) on a model, discovered the usual 'invisible' flaws, and now I need to redress them without messing up the fairly nice overall primer finish I already have.
For fine, panel line sized, stuff, Mr. Surfacer 500 will fdo the job in one or so coats. Heavier than that you'll want Mr. Dissolved Putty or Wave Black CA. Larger than that you can go to Wave Black CA or Aves.mburkey wrote:Anybody know if Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer (jar) can fill fairly obnoxious, trench-like panel lines in resin? I can't keep up with all the Mr. this-and-that that's out there, and I'm not sure if this stuff is thick enough. I know it'll do small pinholes and scratches just great. But I've already got a primer coat of Mr. Resin Primer (spray can) on a model, discovered the usual 'invisible' flaws, and now I need to redress them without messing up the fairly nice overall primer finish I already have.
Abolish Alliteration
Not sure if this stuff is '500' and my Japanese is terrible. I guess I'll experiment. The posted discussion have some great info, but this makes me think someone should create an Excel spreadsheet of glues, fillers, and paints with columns for: uses, thins with..., thins best with..., recommended ratios, should not be applied over, etc.
It will say, in English, Mr. Surfacer 500 (or 1000, or 1200).mburkey wrote:Not sure if this stuff is '500' and my Japanese is terrible. I guess I'll experiment. The posted discussion have some great info, but this makes me think someone should create an Excel spreadsheet of glues, fillers, and paints with columns for: uses, thins with..., thins best with..., recommended ratios, should not be applied over, etc.
Abolish Alliteration
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Jonas Calhoun
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Probably depends on what you are using to wash it. IIRC testors putty is basically red Bondo spot putty. Lacquer based. Should be ok against anything but the really nasty stuff.
If you are wanting to play it safe, use Comet (or some other semi-harsh cleanser) and a toothbrush.
Dan
If you are wanting to play it safe, use Comet (or some other semi-harsh cleanser) and a toothbrush.
Dan
"Laugh while you can, monkey boy!" -- Lord John Whorfin
Bondo UV curing putty
I just found this today while hunting around locally for the 3M blue glazing putty.
It is "Bondo UV Glazing & Spot Putty" (#930) and I wonder how it compares to the Tamiya stuff that has gotten remarkably difficult to get in the states.
It was cheap, less than $7, but i don't know yet if that is an accurate measure of its performance.
Does anyone have any familiarity with this product?
Cheers,
JM[/list]
It is "Bondo UV Glazing & Spot Putty" (#930) and I wonder how it compares to the Tamiya stuff that has gotten remarkably difficult to get in the states.
It was cheap, less than $7, but i don't know yet if that is an accurate measure of its performance.
Does anyone have any familiarity with this product?
Cheers,
JM[/list]
what would you guys recommend for building up putty? I'm doing a fine molds falcon and I need to get rid of the breaks in all the piping that goes into the mandible wells. I'd like something I could apply to a brush and then shape with a blade and then sand.
thoughts?
Great model but those pipes had the worst fit ever....
thoughts?
Great model but those pipes had the worst fit ever....
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AbsoluteSciFi
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OK. Marble dust and acrylic polymer emulsion can be found at Sally's Beauty Salons, (Sally's) or any other beauty products store, sold as nail acrylic additives, you can buy it in a big bag for about $20 for a pound of powder.Neb wrote:Ok, here it is, right from the can's mouth---err---label:
Marble dust, and Acrylic Polymer Emulsion.
Dang, that was a mouthful----how do you chemists remember all them fancy names? (Ter)
The powder that can be mixed either with water or with an additive such as nail thinner, (remover). This is the cheapest way to buy acrylic. Add anything you like to the mix, talc, marble dust, baking soda... the acrylic is the stuff women get put into their nails for a "french manicure", does not shrink and is fabulously hard when dry. I treated myself to a manicure just to pick the brain of the lady working there about this stuff.
I get all my sanding tools there as well, such as Emory boards, which are great and last forever.
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SciFiGuy
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incidentally, I ended up using tamaya putty. The grey stuff is pretty thick, but you can thin it down with their extra thin cement and apply it with a brush quite easily!pondo wrote:what would you guys recommend for building up putty? I'm doing a fine molds falcon and I need to get rid of the breaks in all the piping that goes into the mandible wells. I'd like something I could apply to a brush and then shape with a blade and then sand.
thoughts?
Great model but those pipes had the worst fit ever....
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scratchy
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I had a few spaces in my scratchbuilt star destroyer that I fixed...... without puttypondo wrote:what would you guys recommend for building up putty? I'm doing a fine molds falcon and I need to get rid of the breaks in all the piping that goes into the mandible wells. I'd like something I could apply to a brush and then shape with a blade and then sand.
What I did....
1) get a small piece of glass, this will be your pallet.
2) a pile of styrene shavings, bits, or sanded debris from a file
3) you'll need a razor blade, or chisel blade for dicing up the bits
4) Lacquer Thinner
5) A small brush
On the sheet of glass, make a small pile of the styrene shavings/dust/bits and take your razor blade and chop it up. Once you have a nice minced up pile, add the lacquer thinner with the brush, a couple drops at a time with your small brush.
Work the concoction with the brush and thinner until you have a paste, then apply with the brush to the area that you want to fix. Once the area has dried, sand and file.... and there you have it HARD PLASTIC!
I did the same technique while attaching the brass rod to these scratchbuilt domes.
http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu30 ... domess.jpg
I took the brass piece, dipped it in the paste, then pressed it on the crown of the dome. After the paste was dried, I filed and sanded hardened paste/plastic, then I slid a small square piece of styrene down the brass rod to finish off the detail.
I hope this helps.
That's ok. This model is strictly a test bed anyway. Its whole purpose in life is to suffer the screw ups I'm not going to make on my TOS E.Kylwell wrote:Different kind of modeling I'm afraid. It's a heavy body acrylic with marble dust added. Takes forever to dry and will more than likely suck up paint like nobodies business.
OK, another Mr. Color Primer 500 question. I'm going through the 10-dollar cans briskly now that I buy cheap(ish) WSF 3D printed models that have to be primed. I heard some rumor that all they do is repackage some brand of Dupont primer in a gallon can. Is there such a thing? Does it or some equivalent come in a spray can for a lesser price?