interior starship lighting lightsheet vs leds
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interior starship lighting lightsheet vs leds
Hi, I have read DLM's great article on lighting the stargazer and was wondering why alot more people do not use lightsheet or EL(electro luminescient) wire to light up thier models. The appearant benefit is reduction of heat which will warp the plastic.
Is there down side to using EL sheet or wire that I'm not aware of?
I am considering using lightsheet to light up a larger model like the Lunar models excelsior. I have seen some poorly done models with LEDS and the leds are so bright that it seems inconsistent with a large scale ship. EL seems to give off a lower intensity that seems more consistant with a larger scale ship & You can get it cheap online and at my local computer store.
I'd like to hear your thoughts. Thanks.
Is there down side to using EL sheet or wire that I'm not aware of?
I am considering using lightsheet to light up a larger model like the Lunar models excelsior. I have seen some poorly done models with LEDS and the leds are so bright that it seems inconsistent with a large scale ship. EL seems to give off a lower intensity that seems more consistant with a larger scale ship & You can get it cheap online and at my local computer store.
I'd like to hear your thoughts. Thanks.
- DLMatthys
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Darthsideousjwrjr wrote:I've troed using EL wire. It wasn't bright enough.
I agree with JWRJR! Used it in the SDSM USS Stargazer. The EL wire I got from LightSheet is not bright enough nor have I found any brighter EL Wire brand since.
http://culttvman.com/assets/images-BENC ... er1035.JPG
I do think the regular EL Lamps (LightSheet) was adequite to the task for all of the Warp Engines though. LightSheet is out of bussiness so I use this brand pf EL Lamps from Miller Engineering
http://www.microstru.com/Experimenter-Kits.html
So....For interior lighting (windows and ports) I have switched to white 5mm LEDs that cast out a wider angled beam of light. From LED Supply a 70 degree view angle:
http://www.ledsupply.com/l1-0-w5th70-1.php
Also you can widen the view angle of the regular 5mm LED by grinding the dome flat. It kill the LED lens beam effect. Arrange the LEDs inside the model with about a 6 to 10 inch stand off from the ports and windows. That should help with even handed interior lighting througout.
Have fun with it and good luck!
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Don, Thank you for taking the time to provide an amazing explaination, and solution to my lighting dilema! Looks like I will go with LEDs.
Also thanks to: fsgray.
I appreciated your comment on using a stronger resister, as I had not even considered that option.
Thanks to everyone who's responded to my inquiry: You guys really make this board a great place to learn and grow modeling skills!
Also thanks to: fsgray.
I appreciated your comment on using a stronger resister, as I had not even considered that option.
Thanks to everyone who's responded to my inquiry: You guys really make this board a great place to learn and grow modeling skills!
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I love LEDs for lighting projects and the new high brightness ones are spectacular.
I even found an announcement today about PASTEL colored leds. Yes, now you can get pink, purple and turquoise LEDs in 5mm 20mA. Check out Lumex Inc.
Welcome to the golden age of LED lighting everyone!
-John C.
I even found an announcement today about PASTEL colored leds. Yes, now you can get pink, purple and turquoise LEDs in 5mm 20mA. Check out Lumex Inc.
Welcome to the golden age of LED lighting everyone!
-John C.
That Madman Who Lit Up Deep Space Nine
"You have gone too far. You have married Fester, you have destroyed his spirit, you have taken him from us. All that I could forgive. But Debbie... pastels?" -Morticia, Addams Family ValuesMadman Lighting wrote:I love LEDs for lighting projects and the new high brightness ones are spectacular.
I even found an announcement today about PASTEL colored leds. Yes, now you can get pink, purple and turquoise LEDs in 5mm 20mA. Check out Lumex Inc.
Welcome to the golden age of LED lighting everyone!
-John C.
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Jeff
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Has anybody experimented with taking a clear acrylic rod, maybe 1/2" diameter, sanding down one edge until it's a sort of long cylinder that's letter D shape in cross section, then drilling out the ends and putting LEDs in them? That might be good for lighting up engines.
My gut tells me the rod would act like a big fiber optic, but the sanded-down side would let some of the light escape on each reflection, instead of it all being internally reflected as is the case in a "proper" fiber. If too much light got out near the ends, you could add a few LEDs midway.
It would be sort of a variation of what Don Matthys did for lighting the saucer of his Excelsior for the build on CultTVMan's site. With superbright LEDs, you could make really intense engines, I would think.
Heck, you could even have pastel colors!
Jeff
My gut tells me the rod would act like a big fiber optic, but the sanded-down side would let some of the light escape on each reflection, instead of it all being internally reflected as is the case in a "proper" fiber. If too much light got out near the ends, you could add a few LEDs midway.
It would be sort of a variation of what Don Matthys did for lighting the saucer of his Excelsior for the build on CultTVMan's site. With superbright LEDs, you could make really intense engines, I would think.
Heck, you could even have pastel colors!
Jeff
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That DOES sound like a good idea but I've not tried it myself.
You might not need to make it that fancy though, how about a translucent hunk of heat shrink tubing, shrunk to fit the LEDs at each end? Doesnt that stuff come in white or semi-clear? It would keep the light diffused along its length and act like a big flouresent tube.
-John C.
You might not need to make it that fancy though, how about a translucent hunk of heat shrink tubing, shrunk to fit the LEDs at each end? Doesnt that stuff come in white or semi-clear? It would keep the light diffused along its length and act like a big flouresent tube.
-John C.
That Madman Who Lit Up Deep Space Nine
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I looked all over the place, every craft store in sight plus a Target, and couldn't find a clear acrylic rod to try out my lighting idea.en'til Zog wrote:Guys? Try a white plastic soda straw with a BLUE LED in each end. Depending on how the LED 'throws' or focusses the light, you cn get a nice even tubular glow.
Works for me... with a little tweeking.
However, I, uh, borrowed (yeah, that's the ticket!) one of my wife's hot glue sticks, hollowed out one end, then stuck in a blue LED. The glow was nice and uniform for about 1.5 inches, then died out.
All that means is that the scattering is ridiculous in the glue stick. I haven't tried adding more LEDs in the middle.
However, looking through some of the other posts, using a plastic rod seems similar to the "sidelight" fiber optics in concept, except it would be a whole lot cheaper. I've seen clear 1/2" diameter acrylic rod from plastic suppliers for about $3/foot. Next time I order from Plastruct, I'll get some. Have to measure out the engines of that Excelsior I just got in the mail and see what diameter would be best.
Jeff
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I've tried all the methods you have, none had significant light dispersal except this (this was a rough test):jgoldader wrote:
I looked all over the place, every craft store in sight plus a Target, and couldn't find a clear acrylic rod to try out my lighting idea.
However, I, uh, borrowed (yeah, that's the ticket!) one of my wife's hot glue sticks, hollowed out one end, then stuck in a blue LED. The glow was nice and uniform for about 1.5 inches, then died out.
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r261 ... G_2802.jpg
Day shot:
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r261 ... G_2804.jpg
Lighting rig:
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r261 ... G_2805.jpg
I used Fiberfil to disperse the light. A bag costs about a buck and you'll probably never use it all.
Scottie
I am fearful when I see people substituting fear for reason
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