Novice question about conversion resin kit.

Neuroleptic · Post by **Neuroleptic** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 5:03 pm

Hi! I hope this is the right place to post this. I tried doing a few surches for this topic, but I couldn't find it. I'm still preaty darn new to modeling (not counting my miserable failures when I was 8 . . .) so my questions on this topic may sound stupid.

So I appologise in advance if this has already been asked. Like I said, I tried a few searches and couldn't find anything. So if it's already been answered, just post a link to the response and my appologies to the mod gods . . .

Anyway, I have two questions. I'm going to be purchasing a coulpe of resin conversion kits for a model soon. I mostly only have access to spray paints and acrylic paints at my local hobby shop and can't afford an air brush.

So my first question is, is it possible to use a primer spraypaint on a resin kit, then use enamel spray paint over that on a resin kit and styren kit parts? This'd make painting the sucker alot easier, but I don't know if it's a good idea or not.

And for construction . . . what kind of glue to I use? Superglue? Gorilla glue? And will the standard testors putty and sand paper work?

. . . any advice at all is welcome.

Johnnycrash · Post by **Johnnycrash** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 5:18 pm

Welcome to the board.

Answer 1: Yes. You can primer over the styrene AND resin parts, then paint with ANY paint you wish. Just make sure to wash the resin parts with a mild soap and some water, and rinse well. Let it fully dry, and you are ready to go. This removes any mold release that may be present. The mold release I use is paintable, but not all are.

Answer 2: CA, also known as Super Glue is the best. But epoxies, and white glues (Elmers and such) work as well. Although the white glue bond isn't as strong as CA. But it is easier to use on small parts. Sometimes CA is TOO fast. You can use all the same putties, fillers, and sandpaper on the resin, as you do on the styrene. But it is best to wet sand resin. This keepsthe dust down, and helps prevent your sandpaper from glogging up with the resin.

Neuroleptic · Post by **Neuroleptic** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 5:38 pm

Thanks for the advice. It's a huge help! One last stupid question.

. . . What is this wet sanding you speak of? Is it as simple as just putting water on the sand paper?

Like I said, stupid questions may be asked.

Johnnycrash · Post by **Johnnycrash** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 5:46 pm

No stupid questions, just stupid people asking them. No. Wait! That's not right.

Wet sanding is wetting the sandpaper. But, you can't use just ANY sandpaper. Regular sandpaper has a, well, paper backing. The wet/dry paper (usually it's black) has a water resistant backing. And it comes in the all the good grits, and few more. From 50 to 12000.

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Jun 15, 2008 9:35 am

You should be able to find the wet-sanding paper at your local hardware shop. The common stuff is from 3M. Tell the salesperson you need to do some wet-sanding and polishing. You should also be able to find some sanding or polishing pads which might help.

You can also find at the auto shop something called fill-and-sand or at the hobby shop it's Gunze-Sangyo Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya's equivalent. It's a solvent-based filler and surface correction agent. You brush it on like thick paint and can remove with sanding or alcohol on a series of swabs.