Hi All,
Thinking about building a large-ish model (3-5 foot long), and was wondering what everyone reccommends for a hull material? Acrylic sheet, styrene sheet, wood? I have access to buy many different materials and adhesives, and equipment to machine it. Just need to decide about what material to use, and design around that.
Thank you for any input,
Tom
material for building an LARGE size model
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
-
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2005 6:57 pm
- Location: Corona, California
material for building an LARGE size model
"I'm trying to strike a balance between accuracy and progress." DreamCrazy
- Lichtbringer
- Posts: 1803
- Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2008 3:24 pm
- Location: Germany
It depends from the shape of the object.
Have a nice day.
Bye,
Michael
I´m just a simple man, trying to glue my way in the universe.
http://s527.photobucket.com/home/Lichtbote/allalbums
Bye,
Michael
I´m just a simple man, trying to glue my way in the universe.
http://s527.photobucket.com/home/Lichtbote/allalbums
Depends on how you're going to light it, and how you're going to hang it.
And how long you want it to last.
Plywood, specially untreated & thin, delaminates over time if not proper sealed. In this day & age of LEDs and compact fluorescents you don't have to worry about heat build-up like the studio modelers do (or did). So you could easily go with schedule C pvc pipe as a frame & polycarb or acrylic sheet as bulkheads & sheeting. I prefer acrylic for it's stiffness but some like polycarb because it machines like butter.
And how long you want it to last.
Plywood, specially untreated & thin, delaminates over time if not proper sealed. In this day & age of LEDs and compact fluorescents you don't have to worry about heat build-up like the studio modelers do (or did). So you could easily go with schedule C pvc pipe as a frame & polycarb or acrylic sheet as bulkheads & sheeting. I prefer acrylic for it's stiffness but some like polycarb because it machines like butter.
Abolish Alliteration
- Chacal
- Posts: 3654
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 3:09 pm
- Location: Rio. Always unseasonably warm, even in the Winter, when we'll host the Summer Olympic Games of 2016
Kylwell makes a good point there: Don't follow the techniques used to build studio models if you want the model to last. The key to building a successful studio model is speed—you use what is easier/faster to build.
For a 'labor of love' type of model, do as Kylwell suggests, but I'd also chime in with: metal. A soldered tubular brass internal structure can support a lot of weight. Another thing: use good glue—2-part epoxy is best for long-lasting bonds. CA will eventually (a few years) crack and separate.
For a 'labor of love' type of model, do as Kylwell suggests, but I'd also chime in with: metal. A soldered tubular brass internal structure can support a lot of weight. Another thing: use good glue—2-part epoxy is best for long-lasting bonds. CA will eventually (a few years) crack and separate.
Sheer elegance in its simplicity.
Political unrest in dictatorships is rather like a round of rock-paper-scissors: The oposition goes on denouncing the regime on the papers, the regime censors the papers, rock-throwing ensues.
Political unrest in dictatorships is rather like a round of rock-paper-scissors: The oposition goes on denouncing the regime on the papers, the regime censors the papers, rock-throwing ensues.
-
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2005 6:57 pm
- Location: Corona, California
Thank you for the replies.
The plan is to build a flying saucer with mandibles (!) and make it somewhat large. I was leaning towards acrylic because A) readily available in large sheets, B) cost effective, C) can be machined, thermo-formed and easily glued, and D) can be laser cut. And as access to the laser may be curtailed soon, I wanted to at least build a hull now and detail later.
I wanted to run thru other stuff as ideas as I know all of you here have vastly more of the stuff that constitutes knowledge in these matters than I. Build a model out of a box or do a minor kitbash and I'm good. This would be my first step into scratch (ignoring that 4 foot long cardboard stardestroyer I built sooo long ago).
If this gets off the ground, I'll post pics/info. Thank you for the input,
Tom
The plan is to build a flying saucer with mandibles (!) and make it somewhat large. I was leaning towards acrylic because A) readily available in large sheets, B) cost effective, C) can be machined, thermo-formed and easily glued, and D) can be laser cut. And as access to the laser may be curtailed soon, I wanted to at least build a hull now and detail later.
I wanted to run thru other stuff as ideas as I know all of you here have vastly more of the stuff that constitutes knowledge in these matters than I. Build a model out of a box or do a minor kitbash and I'm good. This would be my first step into scratch (ignoring that 4 foot long cardboard stardestroyer I built sooo long ago).
If this gets off the ground, I'll post pics/info. Thank you for the input,
Tom
"I'm trying to strike a balance between accuracy and progress." DreamCrazy
-
- Posts: 2405
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 3:03 pm
- Location: The Wilds of Northwoods Wisconsin
I'd advise against using PVC pipe - at least the normal 'house plumbing' type. I was involved in a model build for a film and the guy in charge used PVC for the long, self supporting main spine with the mount in the middle of the 5 foot 2 inch long beast. Quickly, it began to sag. By the time it was finished, with moving 'arms' and all, it was sagging noticably.
Just my experience.
Just my experience.
Sounds like too small a diameter. Larger the diameter the stiffer the tube.en'til Zog wrote:I'd advise against using PVC pipe - at least the normal 'house plumbing' type. I was involved in a model build for a film and the guy in charge used PVC for the long, self supporting main spine with the mount in the middle of the 5 foot 2 inch long beast. Quickly, it began to sag. By the time it was finished, with moving 'arms' and all, it was sagging noticably.
Just my experience.
Abolish Alliteration
- Richard Baker
- Posts: 16324
- Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 10:23 am
- Location: Warrior, Alabama
For a model thai size I would suggest starting off with a frame or skeleton- .080 aluminum if you can, threaded pipe or welded 1x1 square tubing would also work. It will give all the plexi a thing to hang on and support the weight when you display it. Tab and notch the plex when you can- it will help the epoxy hold things together.
It sounds like an interesting project you got there...
.
It sounds like an interesting project you got there...
.
"The future is not what it used to be" - G'Kar
Things go wrong and bad things happen- that is just the way the world is-
It is how you deal with it that tells the world who you truly are.
“Censorship is telling a man he can’t have a steak just because a baby can’t chew it.” -Mark Twain
Deviant Art Gallery-
http://phaedrus-3.deviantart.com/
Things go wrong and bad things happen- that is just the way the world is-
It is how you deal with it that tells the world who you truly are.
“Censorship is telling a man he can’t have a steak just because a baby can’t chew it.” -Mark Twain
Deviant Art Gallery-
http://phaedrus-3.deviantart.com/