vacuform kit advice

[gwsht5]

I am in need of advice. I recently aquired a SFSM Vacuform Oberth class kit, and I've never done anything other than regular stock kits before. I really want this jewell to shine, so I am asking for any advice, tips, painting, azteking, lighting, or any other usefull info that you would be able to give a rookie.
Thanks
gwsht5

[Pat Amaral]

All I can say is careful cutting/edge sanding will be your friends and expanding foam (from a hardware store) will be your ally

Good luck

[robiwon]

For joining large VF pieces together glue small tabs along the parts length. This will give the other half something to rest on when the parts are joined. If the plastic is real thin go with super glue or real light with the liquid cement. To much liquid and the parts may melt. If you use a lacquer to paint make sure you prime it first. The hot solvents in lacquer can melt thin plastic. Trim a little a time and test fit parts. It's better to remove not enough than to remove too much. Good luck.

[Scott Hasty]

All I can say is careful cutting/edge sanding will be your friends and expanding foam (from a hardware store) will be your ally

Good luck

And don't forget to cut TWO holes for the foam!!

[gwsht5]

Pat Amaral Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2008 1:22 pm Post subject:

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All I can say is careful cutting/edge sanding will be your friends and expanding foam (from a hardware store) will be your ally[/color]

Good luck

Pat, could you elaborate on using the expanding foam, Do's and Don't's.

Thanks for all the advice so far guys, keep it coming. When I start, I'll post updates on my progress, and comment's will definately be welcome.

[Pat Amaral]

I was afraid you were going to ask that

To be honest, I never actually used it myself but the idea is to fill the voids inside the model to add structural strength. Build up the major components of the model, allowing a small hole at one point and at least one or two holes in another, in an opposite area (for example: leave an opening in the rear tip of the lower hull and at least a couple openings in the front end as well). SPARINGLY spray the foam (it will expand fast) into the hole in the rear. The foam will fill the void in the hull and start coming out the holes in the front. The idea is to allow the foam to expand and fill the void but not so much that it bursts the seams. After a while, the foam will firm up and become rigid inside the model, creating structural integrity.

Another good choice would be to use a putty (Aves is really good for this). Simply mix up a bunch of the putty and cover the inside surfaces of the larger parts with a layer of about 1/16 to 1/8" thick. When the putty cures, the part will be extremely rigid.

[vaderman]

You may find this build-up helpful.

http://pat.suwalski.net/wip/grissom/


Scott

[gwsht5]

Thanks for the link Vader. I'll definately do some studying of this before I start. Does the Oberth have an Aztek pattern? I've never noticed it in any pics. I may even light it, but that will be a new thing too, so I don't know yet. Keep the good advice coming!

[Andrew Gorman]

I've just braced the inside of larger vac kits with a spiderweb/ Hong Kong scaffold of lengths of sprue and the results are surprisingly rigid. I just shake random lengths into position and use some liquid cement to secure them. This doesn't deform the vac pieces but adds a lot of strength.

[davidlgreen]

i've built a couple of vac kits, and what i did was to fill each half BEFORE i glued it together, trimmed and sanded the foam down on each side then buttered the 2 sides up w/epoxy and glued them together, made alignment much easier. i was i lttle afraid of the vacs at first, but now i wish i had the ones i gave away, they're kinda fun,different once you get used to them.
Also, if you have some resin you can mix up a bunch of that pour it in the halves and slosh it around until it hardens, ive done this on several thin models and it works quite nicely.
one more thing,prime the model Before you cut it out of the sheet, this way after its cut out you can see the thin white edge that needs to be sanded off much easier


keep us posted with pics. dave

[vaderman]

Thanks for the link Vader. I'll definately do some studying of this before I start. Does the Oberth have an Aztek pattern? I've never noticed it in any pics. I may even light it, but that will be a new thing too, so I don't know yet. Keep the good advice coming!

I don't believe that it does. Let me know if you are interested in some clear blue warp grills. You can use them to light it for the warp drive effect, or you can prime and pain it for the solid piece. They are preassembled and will save you a lot of time cutting out strips of plastic for that part. They are only $12.00 plus S&H.

Scott
AW Studios

[TER-OR]

The oberon article there is great. Definitely use that.

Here is a vac I did a while ago, you may pick up some tips.
http://www.modelingmadness.com/reviews/ ... slepv1.htm

[davidlgreen]

unbelievable job on the ventura. absolutely gorgeous.

[gwsht5]

Thanks for all the advice. I started digging in the box, and the previous owner had coppied an article from a magizene about this very kit, so I will need to do some homework before i start. I opened a photobucket account so that I could post build up pics. Since this is my first vacuform kit, it will probably be slow going.
I do have my first question for starters. The pieces are already primed, when I cut the pieces out, how much of the edge should I leave? I was thinking @ 1/16th of an inch. Too much, or too little?

[TER-OR]

Best to leave too much to start, then you can take more later.

Buy a square marble tile at the DIY shop, a nice 12" one. Also buy some 3M spray-mount adhesive. Also buy some 400 grit black waterproof sandpaper. Glue the sandpaper to the marble. Immerse in a tub of water to do your sanding, so you have a perfectly flat surface on which to sand the vacuformed parts.

[davidlgreen]

when i do mine , after its primed, i take all the white edge off right down to the paint line. looking forward to the pics. and the wetsanding on the tile will do you well.