Problems with spray on Testors paint

jakealake18 · Post by **jakealake18** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 3:06 pm

I'm having a problem with spray-on Testors model master paint, as the title suggests...

Every time I use any Testors spray on paint, it seems to just slop on a huge amount of paint regardless of how short I spray or how far away I spray. This always ruins the fine detail on any part. Today I sprayed some seats and I got so much paint on them it completely covered up the relatively deep creases in the seat.

Is there some trick to avoid this? Or is this just the way it is with Testors spray-on paints and I need to switch brands?

TREKKRIFFIC · Post by **TREKKRIFFIC** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 3:49 pm

jakealake18 wrote:I'm having a problem with spray-on Testors model master paint, as the title suggests...

Every time I use any Testors spray on paint, it seems to just slop on a huge amount of paint regardless of how short I spray or how far away I spray. This always ruins the fine detail on any part. Today I sprayed some seats and I got so much paint on them it completely covered up the relatively deep creases in the seat.

Is there some trick to avoid this? Or is this just the way it is with Testors spray-on paints and I need to switch brands?

I've used ModelMaster rattle cans for years with little difficulty.
Some things to consider...
1) Air temperature where you are spraying. If it's too cold it will have an impact on the amount and consistency of the spray. Cold makes thinks goopier and uneven.
2) Make sure you shake the can vigorously- a couple of minutes shaking is recommended.
3) Make sure the tip is clean; holding the can upside down and releasing some of the pressure should blow out any paint residue when you are finished.
4) When you start a pass hold the tip off the subject to start so any initial spatters end up on your backdrop not on the model. Complete your spray pass moving the tip off the model to avoid uneven paint buildup.
If this seems elementary to you please forgive me as I have no idea of your experience level with rattle cans.

jakealake18 · Post by **jakealake18** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 4:19 pm

No, sounds good to me. I'll be sure to shake the cans more and spray the can upside down first. Thanks!

Alvis 3.1 · Post by **Alvis 3.1** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 4:29 pm

Something else that helps is to run a sink of hot tap water, and stand the can in it for a few minutes after the first shaking. This helps bring the pressure up in the can, which helps atomise the paint that little bit better. Remove from the water, shake again for 20 seconds or so, then spray.

Alvis 3.1

Pat Amaral · Post by **Pat Amaral** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 4:52 pm

I've experienced the effects you're describing when I've used old cans (I mean a couple of years). I've had unused rattle cans of Testors paint (two or three years old) that have had no problems but, sometimes if the can has been used, and then let sit for a long time, the propellant apparently leaks out and therefore can't povide enough oomph to shoot the paint. The only solution I know of is to pitch it and buy a new can.

or get and airbrush (it may be possible to decant the paint from an old rattle can into a container that can then be properly thinned and used in an airbrush).

Romulan Spy · Post by **Romulan Spy** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 10:28 am

Are you using gloss or flat colors? Flats are easier, gloss takes a bit more practice. As stated before, fresh cans and gentle heating in hot water helps the paint flow a little better. Also, make sure you don't try to completely cover the part with one coat. You want to gently mist on a few light coats; let the color build up slowly. Testors spray cans cover well, but take it slow and easy.

Stu Pidasso · Post by **Stu Pidasso** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 11:41 pm

Alvis 3.1 wrote:Something else that helps is to run a sink of hot tap water, and stand the can in it for a few minutes after the first shaking. This helps bring the pressure up in the can, which helps atomise the paint that little bit better. Remove from the water, shake again for 20 seconds or so, then spray.

AND NEVER NEVER EVER leave it in water on the stove. I forgot about it once.

ONCE.

(hint: white walls, white cat, black glossy paint. Boom. Dalmation house.)

Rogviler · Post by **Rogviler** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 11:57 pm

I fourth the hot water bath method.

I also got in the habit of removing the tips from empty cans and soaking them in thinner for awhile to clean them out. That way I know I always have a spare one that's not going to spit.

-Rog

Ziz · Post by **Ziz** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:56 pm

Don't forget about distance between paint can and model. Ideal is somewhere in the 6 to 12 inch range. Closer and it pools up on the model, further and you don't get good coverage.

The speed of your pass over the model also figures into it. Keep it steady all the way through. Practice on cardboard first. You want to go fast enough that it doesn't pool up but slow enough that you get continuous coverage.

Newbie Doobie · Post by **Newbie Doobie** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 3:25 pm

If none of these tips help,try spraying your paint into an old soup can(washed,and dried of course),then pouring this into an airbrush jar. I usually thin my paint with one third thinner,and two thirds paint. If you don't have an airbrush,then I would heat the spray paint can in warm water for a few minutes. Then try spraying it over a piece of white paper to see what spray pattern it leaves.

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Problems with spray on Testors paint

Problems with spray on Testors paint

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